I am working on a 9`6 with wide point a hint behind center, fat 50/50 rails from the tail and then fades to down rail in the nose.
Right now the board is flat on the bottom, would a slight concave in the nose work with the down rails?
Another thing while I am on it, how would you solve a too thick tail when a board is “done”… Is it too late to remove some thickness from the bottom and add some extra kick in the tail when the rails are done?
If anyone has some pictures on a board they like with down rails in the nose I would love to see how much down rail it has. I know Ace posted some pics but i cant seem to find them.
I don’t think I’ve ever seen a nose concave and dropped rails on the same board. The dropped nose, aka wing tip, aka toilet seat, is supposed to work in conjunction with a dead flat bottom or at most, a soft roll side to side.
I would like to see some pics of what you got going on there. You may be able to take a little thickness away from both the bottom and deck in the tail as to not have too much flip in the tail.
I have an older 7ish foot single fin board with down rails throughout and has flat bottom to slight Vee out the tail.
As an experiment on my 4th board I made a pretty extreme case of foiled down rails on an 8’ somewhat pig-ish thing. It’s got a decent amount of single concave in the nose, to flat middle, to vee at the end with hard edges near the fin. The rails are significantly thinner than the middle of the board and there’s a very hard, tight radius curve all around, except for the hard 90 degree at the tail of course.
I don’t think these embeds are going to work, but this is actually the board in my avatar. This is the nose, which is squared off cause I thought it’d look cool. You can sort of see how hard the rails are at the front, and there’s a single concave under there too.
Again, the tail is the near, rounded pin end in the photo.
I think you can sort of tell how thin the rails get in this one, and how hard they are.
I like the board. I think if I were to redo it I’d probably thin the deck a bit more and leave a tiny bit more volume in the rails. The hard rails all the way through might catch a bit more than if they were softer, but it’s nothing a bit of finesse can’t solve. It’s decent in trim from the front and turns well enough from the back. The concave “works.” I don’t think it hurts the board and it does feel like it helps when I get on the nose. It’s not that wide or long of a board so it’s hard to get 10 toes over, but I get close and easily get 5 over.
Edit: are image embeds disabled because of the spam or something? The embed button is missing and I’m not sure what bit of code would work to embed. My post is kinda useless without images.
Your embeds don’t work because the URL is wrong. They have to end with “jpg” or another image file extension. Yours have a bunch of extraneous stuff after .jpg
At first, I felt that the down rail in the nose looked strange and wrong as I’ve never really seen or felt one myself. I managed to find Aces pictures from Flickr and I think my board looks ok now. It is just another look than the other boards I’ve shaped so far.
I will post pictures as soon as I get home from work.
My problem is that I like my boards a little thicker ( 3 3/8) since I am surfing very weak waves and at 6`3 and 210 pounds I like a little extra volume. I need to get better at thinning out the tail before i start shaping the rails next time
drzoidberg: Nice input thanks, I will keep the bottom flat. I think hehe.
I’d say glass it and ride it. You’ll figure out where the buttons are and if there are any specific limitations soon enough. It looks like a nice functional longboard shape to me. It also looks like you have some other stuff going on in the background to keep you busy for awhile. HAHA
