I’ve searched the archives and only found scattered info. So, what is the best technique for transferring an existing board’s outline onto masonite? Thanks- ole p.s. Are masonite and hardboard the same thing?
Ole, I know hardboard does seem to be the standard material used for templates and I’m not sure if that’s the same as ‘masonite’ but I have found that old linoleum (otherwise known as lino) or offcuts make excellent spin templates, particularly the thinner stuff. Good luck Hampo
I’ve searched the archives and only found scattered info. So, what is the > best technique for transferring an existing board’s outline onto masonite? > Thanks- ole>>> p.s. Are masonite and hardboard the same thing? Ole, I like to tape heavy butcher/kraft paper on one half-side of the the bottom to trace a template, leave a couple inches of extra paper beyond the rails, and draw around the edge, onto the paper, from the deck. Be careful to keep your tracing instrument vertical. Next, I trim the outside paper off the traced line on the paper and then transfer that to a piece of 1/8" tempered masonite, cut and sand smooth. Masonite is sometimes called by its generic name “hardboard”. But whichever name is used, there are two main types: tempered and untempered. The former is usually darker, has a firmer flex, a tougher, harder consistency and is very water resistant… my personal preference.
use spring claps to hold template material (1\8" tempered masonite or mahogany or birch door skin, against bottom of board. Mark with pencil. I find spraying with white primer first helps to see pencil line easier. cut out template about 1’8" away from line. Now the most important part: USE YOUR PLANER TO GO TO LINE. IF YOU HAD BUMPS IN YOUR PENCIL LINES, THE PLANER WILL TRUE THEM UP. Easy!! aloha, tom
use spring claps to hold template material (1\8" tempered masonite or > mahogany or birch door skin, against bottom of board. Mark with pencil. I > find spraying with white primer first helps to see pencil line easier. cut > out template about 1’8" away from line.>>> Now the most important part: USE YOUR PLANER TO GO TO LINE. IF YOU HAD > BUMPS IN YOUR PENCIL LINES, THE PLANER WILL TRUE THEM UP.>>> Easy!!>>> aloha, tom Smile, when you say easy!! … have fun
I use 1’8" lauan plywood…I can cut it with a utility knife, which I find more accureate than a jigsaw… Paul http://www.hollowsurfboards.com/New.htm
use spring claps to hold template material (1\8" tempered masonite or > mahogany or birch door skin, against bottom of board. Mark with pencil. I > find spraying with white primer first helps to see pencil line easier. cut > out template about 1’8" away from line.>>> Now the most important part: USE YOUR PLANER TO GO TO LINE. IF YOU HAD > BUMPS IN YOUR PENCIL LINES, THE PLANER WILL TRUE THEM UP.>>> Easy!!>>> aloha, tom – tom, I
ve used ALL-STABILO Colored and Graphite Pencils professionally for over 30 years... theyre a water soluble pencil that will mark clearly on glass, acetate, paper, metal, photos, wood and film. Wipes off with a damp cloth from smooth surfaces and erases from paper. The white and yellow ones provide excellent contrast when used on the dark, tempered masonite surface. http://www.dickblick.com/zz204/08/products.asp?param=0&ig_id=1310
Another dumb question guys ,but here it goes. If tracing an existing board directly onto masonite, would the curve in the rocker affect the shape of the outline?