I agree with you Bert, we need to flush out the “stupid”, UN-“smarter watermen”, like Foo.
If you’re not in tune with nature , you’re against it.
Be a smarter Waterman or go home !
or
Stupid is as Stupid does… - Bert.
Take up tittelly-winks or something instead !
Nature does that all by itself.
Survival is for the fitest.
Foo gambled and lost.
forgive me if i’m misunderstanding you PeacLuvMungBean but,
maligning those who have passed is not only bad manners but
very disrespectful to both the deceased and living.
we need to flush out the “stupid”, UN-“smarter watermen”, like Foo.
Mark Foo’s passing was not a necessity.
when I was a kook
I got yelled at
I checked my blind enthusiasm
and became cognisant and competent.
ambrose m.curry III </blockquote></div>I Corinthians 13:11
When I was a child, I spake as a child, I understood as a child, I thought as a child: but when I became a man, I put away childish things.
And all the people said “Amen”
Riff, with all due respect you are missing the point here by a country mile. The FACT is Wateys IS a popular swimming and surfing beach. On any given summers day when conditions are favourable there will be hundreds of people surfing and swimming there. Whether they SHOULD be there or not is completely irrelevant: it’s legal for em to be there, it’s safe for em to be there. I can hardly show up with a loudhailer every time i wanna go longboarding and walk up and down the beach " all you kids fuck off out of here and go back to Main Beach I wanna go surfing out here with out a leggy and you might get hit". Sorry mate but it’s not 1965 any more, the horse has well and truly bolted with crowds now and taking the attitude that they’re all wrong, THEY can all fuck off so I can do what I want just isn’t gonna cut the mustard. I know on those days when Wateys is working I can surf onshore beachies on a shortboard by myself with no leggy to my hearts content and I often do but when I surf Wateys now ( or any crowded spot where I have to SHARE the space with others) I 'm fucked if I wanna see some little kid with blood pouring out of her head because I was too selfish to wear a leggy. Steve
I 'm fucked if I wanna see some little kid with blood pouring out of her head because I was too selfish to wear a leggy. Steve
I’ve debated giving this thread a pass…but I liked this post too much. I’ve written my personal leash thoughts in past threads, including the watershed moment, so I’ll spare you all the rehash. I will say that the notion that anybody can totally control their surfboard in all conditions all the time is bullshit. I can stand on a cliff and flap my arms and fly, too…for about however long it takes to hit the ground.
Wearing a leash is a valid safety issue when other people are around…for their safety! If a person needs a leash for their own safety, I’m thinking that’s a very false sense of security. If a person wants a sense of security, they shouldn’t go surfing…
A huge percentage of active surfers in 2007 have never known an untied surf world and don’t have any real awareness of a loose surfboard. Yell “Head’s up!” and people look at the sky. The younger they are, the more their world has been manicured to eliminate any threat (no, not a shot at younger surfers…just an observation of our times).
Best advice–swim
2nd best advice–bodysurf
unsolicited advice–they’re both tons of fun. -Trucker
Shhhhh…quiet…
Nels
sorry Herb , I know you are one of the most well respected contributors to this forum but I find this post so inflammatory I have to respond. This gets to the heart of why we surf and what it means to be a waterman (if this word means anything anymore). When I was growing up and then later hanging on the NS I was taught that the primary responsibilty of watermen and experienced surfers was to ensure the safety of other people in the water. This to me is the main thing that elevates surfing from being self-indulgent masturbation (ie it’s all about me and my pleasure). Paddling out at Sunset late one arvo there was a guy struggling in the rip, I kinda nodded at him and kept paddling, he seemed alright. Later on the beach Owl tore strips off me “don’t you ever paddle past someone in the rip without making sure they can get in safely”.
I was on the cliff at Waimea when Donnie Solomon drowned, Owl had binocs on him and the skis got to him as quick as they could but unfortunately he died. Point is he was being watched and looked out for.
It’s a travesty that on such a crowded day Foo was not spotted until much later. That to me is total bullshit, why was no-one looking out for him?
Survival of the fittest? Does that apply to car driving or swimming pools or house fires? Would you say he gambled and lost if he had a car crash and every person drove past his burning car?
Yelling at kooks is the most lame response I can think of to the challenges of surfing in this era. I have zero respect for older guys (and I am one) who yell and bitch and moan. And I know the young guys do to. Would Duke do that? Eddie?
If we are to pass on anything worthwhile to this younger generation then we have get over our own bitter self-interest and start sharing and showing what it means to be a waterman. Steve
This happened to me in the Mentawi’s surfing a reef pass.
The exact middle of my leash got snagged on a coral head in the shallows.
The water rushing by had my board and I face up smacking into eachother.
My face was under the water about 1’ - 1 1/2’ feet looking at the surface.
I tried to grab my ankle…but no luck.
Then I undid the leash on my board next to me at the railsaver.
I was then able to pull on it a little and get a breath.
I still could not get the leash free from the coral and I took it off my ankle.
I left the damn thing there and scurried for my board which had now been drydocked.
No one saw this from the boat or the lineup.
I almost died.
Your always alone in the water.
Nothing will cover your ass 100% of the time. But, DaKine makes a hollow cord that is sealed at both ends. The theory is that it’s buoyancy will help reduce the number of times you catch your leash on coral heads. Unfortunately, if you’re driven down amongst the coral heads and get hooked the floating cord is not going to help much.
Riff, with all due respect you are missing the point here by a country mile. The FACT is Wateys IS a popular swimming and surfing beach. On any given summers day when conditions are favourable there will be hundreds of people surfing and swimming there. Whether they SHOULD be there or not is completely irrelevant: it’s legal for em to be there, it’s safe for em to be there. I can hardly show up with a loudhailer every time i wanna go longboarding and walk up and down the beach " all you kids fuck off out of here and go back to Main Beach I wanna go surfing out here with out a leggy and you might get hit". Sorry mate but it’s not 1965 any more, the horse has well and truly bolted with crowds now and taking the attitude that they’re all wrong, THEY can all fuck off so I can do what I want just isn’t gonna cut the mustard. I know on those days when Wateys is working I can surf onshore beachies on a shortboard by myself with no leggy to my hearts content and I often do but when I surf Wateys now ( or any crowded spot where I have to SHARE the space with others) I 'm fucked if I wanna see some little kid with blood pouring out of her head because I was too selfish to wear a leggy. Steve
Woah… calm down, and back off on the language while youre there… Im not suggesting you kick people off the beach - Im recognising that people are responsible for themselves, their children and their surfboards when they look at a beach and decide weather the risk of being hit by a board is worth the beauty of the spot (which wateys has plenty of) or if its worth moving down the beach 200m or consider a different beach - its not like northern NSW is at a shortage is it!?
Further - If an accident does happen then its worth considering if that could have been avoided and how? then changing your actions to reflect that discovery.
here comes the point
that goes for the surfer, the kid, the parents and the swimmers
should you stop surfing leashless?
learn how to do it better?
surf leashless in a different location?
Warn kids before you paddle out?
Warn parents?
Wear a neon sign and carry a flag?
Im sure youre clever enough (most people are) to take any actions you see as being required/useful. Im sure that little girls parents are clever enough too. Next time you’ll probably look for kids and they will definately look for you.
I wasnt even a gleam in my fathers eye in 1965 - dont know what youre talking about re. crowds etc… sorry
rif.
…Your always alone in the water.
Well said. Even the most experienced buddy can be put into a situation where they cant spot you. Stuff like this can happen very quickly and even in a place you assessed as being safe or understand the risks… just a part of life - People cant breath water, and people need to breath pretty regularly. Your best line of survival is yourself, buddy’s are handy but cant be relied on to save you, or blamed if they dont.
rif.
It’s a travesty that on such a crowded day Foo was not spotted until much later. That to me is total bullshit, why was no-one looking out for him?
Yeah, I think I’ll find a nice warm backyard I can kick back in, in my trunks and barefeet, and keep an eye on the Mavericks impact zone and then call in the jetski rescue. Oh wait, we’re not talking about Hawaii, are we? There isn’t really anywhere owhere on the ‘land’ side of the breaking waves where one can see from and have any ability to do anything to help a surfer out. “Personal watercraft” are also banned from use in the Montery Bay Sanctuary (thank god) - except apparently on some special occasions.
So basically…yep, Mavericks is always going to be a place where you’re on your own. Won’t catch me out there, that’s for sure.
Life is a gamble.
I’ve helped and saved many, many lives at sea and on land over my lifetime.
I severally risk my life at least 10-Xs a week… minimum… driving 70miles daily, to and fro work ,on the deadliest freeways in the world…The 91/55/5 in O.C.,So.Cal…just to save and maintain lives.
It’s a gamble.
My Chemo in Mexico…a gamble.
Anyone that’s every surfed Mavs knows it’s a gamble… everytime out…I know that first hand.
Mark knew the risks…It too bad that we all lost such a Great Waterman.
What happened to Mark was a freak accident.
Just like the Deer I hit a couple months ago…Many people die from Deer related auto accidents.
I was a SMARTER road warrior by expecting the unexpected,having good driving skills/habits,and a 3-1/2 ton, full size, extended cab, Chevy Truck …Anything less… at 70mph…and I probably wouldn’t be here.
Skills.talent,timing,and common sense,kept me alive in the jungles of Central/south America during my tour of duty,some 25 years ago as well.
Read below…These are best words of wisdom that I can ever pass on to any of you.
I usually don’t wear a chord. I surf small waves crashing on the most beautiful sand in California. When it gets crowded I chord up. I’m with Lennox on this. I do not want to see some kid gushing blood or a dad miss work because of my board. Lennox, I think you may of missed the point on Herb’s survival post. Herb speaks for himself, of course. Nature will take the weaker and sometimes the strong, too! Mike
Thanks Mike, you got my point . If it’s crowded and there’s kids swimming in the shorebreak the simplest and safest thing to do is leash up for that session.
Herb, I take your point. Life is a gamble no-one will argue that. It’s random , unpredictable and sometimes totally cruel. As Clint Eastwood said in Unforgiven: " deserves got nothin’ to do with it". All I’m saying is let’s keep an eye out for our fellow humans in the water. For every Malik Joyeaux there’s a Courtney Gray (clinically dead, revived on the beach at Pipeline). How do you think he feels about the actions of his fellow surfers? How do you think his kids feel, his family, his friends?
Prevention is always better than cure but we are preaching to the converted by saying learn to handle yourself in the ocean or go home. We live in the age of the Kook and like it or not the legacy we leave for the next generation will be determined by our response to the invasion of beginners. If we don’t respond appropriately then governments will step in and legislate on our behalf to protect public safety. This IS on the drawing board for places like the superbank. Steve
Life is a gamble no-one will argue that
My feeling is that it’s okay to gamble with my own health and life…not okay to gamble that of somebody else, no mater how clueless any of us may be. Basically the Golden Rule, eh? Things can be so simple…
First,I meant no disrespect to anyone living or dead.
Steve, I wish what you ask for could come true…but I see the opposite …daily…It’s a shame ,especially here in SoCal were it’s a ,“Me and money first” life style.
Heck , I’ve saved lives,that I think ,I would have rather ended,but my better nature takes over,and I help.
And in my nursing career of 25+ years, I’ve been sued for reviving a clinically dead person,and a drug addict(I won both suits
on a ,“reasonably prudent nurse” clause).That’s why I’m leaving this career after this tour in 08.
If I get in serious trouble and don’t think there’s anyway out of it…I just relax… and let my creator take over,because at that point it’s in his hands ,not mine anymore.Herb
Herb, I tips me lid to ya. The reason I joined this forum is because people come on an make a CONTRIBUTION. Who gets remembered, who leaves the greater impression : the givers or the takers? For every greedy a–hole there’s a bunch of blokes who want to share and make a positive contribution. The torch has been handed on, the template is there. It’s up to us whether we pass it on still burning or jam it up our own selfish a–holes. Give a wave, share a smile. Steve
I never forgot this thread and some of the good ideas offered.
I liked Resinheads fishing line cutter..
[IMG]http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s225/SURFFOILS/resinheadsleggiecutter.jpg[/IMG]
and I thought it would be good if I could make a similar but lever style action product that linked onto the leggie.
You loop the leggie into the plastic thing near your foot and it doesnt bend the legrope during normal use but cant fall off or slide either.
. But if you need it you slide youre hand up the legerope like youre pulling it towards you and the lever lifts and bends the tensioned legrope between sharp edge A and fulcrum B, cutting the legrope. It wouldnt cut the legrope unless its under tension so its not likely to work unexpectedly.
[IMG]http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s225/SURFFOILS/SFcutter.jpg[/IMG]
The sharp edge stays hidden until needed and the whole thing weighs bugger all in plastic.
Probably one of those new ultra rigid plastics, injection molded.
The 'thingy' is about 3 in long X 3/4 in wide and 4 mm thick.
Light, unobtrusive and can be added to any legrope and maybe about $1 each.
Any thoughts ??
i find counting underwater helps regain composure. i can easiy hold my breath in a pool for a minute and about 30 seconds without taking a breath. never been held down longer then 20