thats what I do,,,400, 600, 800
if you ghange direction as you change grits you can see when youve sanded the last grit down
you must change paper frequently
maybe your polishing bonnet needs a washing??????
use one of those real heavey wool ones, the kind that have a hard back with the center hole
Do you mean to change direction for example 400 going parallel the stringer and 600 perpendicolar the stringer??
Maybe my polishing bennet need a washing, Will I use just water?
I have different types for different compound!!!
If you were standing here next to me I could show you some tricks.....Using the search box will get you to threads where top Pros give out all their tricks.... I do a lot of hand sanding wet.....I can buff out anything...there's plenty of ways to cheat.....Shining a bright light on a surfboard will show lots of flaws...You've got sanding scratches.....You can't buff out sanding scratches.....How's she look outside? Perfect???? I bet that board is perfect outside. Deck gets wax....
Water doesn't care....
Stingray
Unfortunately I’m from Italy, but as soon as I come to CA I will notice you!!! (Thanks!!)
I had some good lessons in byron bay OZ from some good glossers, but now I’m using differents materials and I had to find my personal way to do a perfect job!!
I know little scatches don’t care for surfing, but I compare my ability level to the top and so I’m tryng to do always Better!!
I spent many times around this process and so I wanna keep better!!!
I will try tomorrow to gloss this board::
400W/D dry with machine tryng to work in a streight line.
600W/D dry with machine tryng to work in a streight line.
800W/D dry whit hand using the block from nose to the tail.
3m Marine compound
3m middle grid compound
3m pretty finish grid compound.
[img_assist|nid=1047787|title=before gloss|desc=|link=none|align=left|width=480|height=640]
And I will post u some photos…
Thanks All
www.surflab.it
robibella my man
dont do then hand blocking surfboard at 800 grit !!
you WILL get long scratches, do it all by machine
i did it by hand on one board too, and i got scratches, i was like, wtf? so i did a chronolgical windback, and realised, that the scratches came from hand sanding with a hard wooden block and the 800 grit:
when you just slightly put block on a corner, you get long deep grooves, because all the hand pressure forces the paper deep into the gloss coat, yes, with 800 too. so dont do it
with a machine at least, you get nice and even pressure, machine it all the way
good luck
many years ago when i worked for danny heritage(south jersey legend) i was told that a drop of soap in the wet sandpaper water would prevent clogging of the paper—i do that all the time when i hand sand dings—would that help with machine sanding? at danny’s factory we used air powered sanding and grinding tools so no electric issues.
Thanks wouter, I will try all by the machine.
_ I’m going to do all dry, so I will try with soap for some dings
www.surflab.it
robibella
When I mentioned block sand I forgot to say it was foam padded
like I also said when you do the last step in another direction you can see that you have completely taken it to that step
If you good with a machine sander , then go at it that way
what ever works for you
but as youve been posting the machine wasnt working for you
and that is why I was suggesting to block the last grit,(with a foam covered block)
mine is a 1/2 sheet plastic thing with 1/4" dense foam and a handle
got it from Home depot
[img_assist|nid=1048124|title=fungun|desc=|link=none|align=left|width=428|height=640][img_assist|nid=1048125|title=fungun|desc=|link=none|align=left|width=480|height=640]
So, this time I have improved my job,
the last two steps I have light handsanded with 800 & 1000 W/D grid and the result was little better!!
I still have those little swirls, I hope next time to make a better job!!
Thanks All
www.surflab.it
robibella - the glass jobs look insane and the polish looks good too. Most polished boards still have swirl marks if you tilt them in the light. Very few get that true mirror finish. Even if you have the perfect procedure for the finish you are hoping to achieve, you will not be able to get it on your first run. Polishing has been described to me as a dance - you have to learn the steps but you wont be any good unless you practice and everyones moves are a little different. So progress is good!
There are a couple threads in the archives if you search for them that have all the tricks of the trade spelled out in them - really good information!
As someone mentioned there are some great archive threads here on Swaylocks concerning gloss and polish. Pay special attention to those archive threads with posts by Kokua,good info. Here's some info I wrote down from one, I don't remember who posted it, but it has worked for me. 320---400---500 with the machine at low RPms. Hand sand the rails with worn out 320 then go to new 500. Some guys wet some guys dry. Altough it is harder to see your imperfections when it is wet.. Whenever I wet sand by hand I just keep a bucket of water close by and dip my paper as I go. Keep those gummies off your paper or you'll be making scratches as you go.. After sanding buff with a wool pad and #2 Shurluster polish. Then finish it off with Mirror glaze #5 OR 7 and a foam pad. Low RPMs. I know a lot of guys hit fast and hard(high RPMs and pressure), but I have had better results at lower RPMs and even pressure. I've been in a few glass shops in Calif. and Hawaii and I have yet to see a gloss/polish guy polishing or sanding at 5000 RPMs. I used to think high RPMs was the way the "pros" did it until I started hanging around a few of them. I was actually shocked at the low RPMs they use for polish. Here's a couple of other tips as well; You can wash your wool pad in the washing machine. Works great. Also make sure when you are sanding your hotcat that you leave zero swirls in your hotcoat before you gloss. You'll never get those out after a gloss coat. Someone mentioned 3M Perfect It and I have heard that it works great at removing any remaining scratches after sanding.. Just haven't got around to trying it myself yet. In years past guys used rubbing compond to get rid of remaining sratches before #2 polish. Had to use a nuetral colored compoud though, the red would show up in any "pits" that may have been in the gloss..