What is the best and fastest method for drying a ding before repair. Thanks
What is the best and fastest method for drying a ding before repair. > Thanks First rinse the ding with fresh water to get the salt water out. Blow the excess water off with an air compressor, you can use a hair dryer or put the board outside where the sun and wind can dry it. If you don’t flush out the salt water, it will dry, but there will still be sodium crystals left in the ding that can turn back to a liquid when they get hot and melt(left in the sun or heat from grinder) and delam your repair.
First rinse the ding with fresh water to get the salt water out. Blow the > excess water off with an air compressor, you can use a hair dryer or put > the board outside where the sun and wind can dry it. If you don’t flush > out the salt water, it will dry, but there will still be sodium crystals > left in the ding that can turn back to a liquid when they get hot and > melt(left in the sun or heat from grinder) and delam your repair. Thanks. Two more questions (My resin work is fine but the repairs turn brown so that’s why I’m asking so many questions about it.) 1. What’s the minimum in days you usually wait for it to dry in the shop? I’m always pushed to get 'em out, so I think I rush it. In other words how do you know when there’s no more moisture anywhere in the foam (thus the brown spot)? 2. This will sound dumb but here goes-What causes the repair to look/turn brown? Is it the original seawater color or is it ‘turning brown’ for another reason?
Thanks. Two more questions (My resin work is fine but the repairs turn > brown so that’s why I’m asking so many questions about it.) 1. What’s the > minimum in days you usually wait for it to dry in the shop? I’m always > pushed to get ‘em out, so I think I rush it. In other words how do you > know when there’s no more moisture anywhere in the foam (thus the brown > spot)? 2. This will sound dumb but here goes-What causes the repair to > look/turn brown? Is it the original seawater color or is it ‘turning > brown’ for another reason? I tend to think that the brown color you see is foam that has been contaminated by salt water.Its kinda hard to dry out wet foam so I will try to tell you how I do it. Take a hand saw and cut the browned foam out in a "V’ shaped pattern.Shape and glue {with resin} a new piece of foam into the board.Sand the area down so its a little below finish level and go ahead and glass the patch as normal. By doing this you have removed all the wet foam and didn’t have to use any fillers that add weight and can crack. Hope this was clear but if you have any questions just ask.
has anyone tried to bleach out brown spots under the glass? I don’t mean with bleach necessarily but maybe by injecting white pigmented resin or ???
Thanks. Two more questions (My resin work is fine but the repairs turn > brown so that’s why I’m asking so many questions about it.) 1. What’s the > minimum in days you usually wait for it to dry in the shop? I’m always > pushed to get 'em out, so I think I rush it. In other words how do you > know when there’s no more moisture anywhere in the foam (thus the brown > spot)? 2. This will sound dumb but here goes-What causes the repair to > look/turn brown? Is it the original seawater color or is it ‘turning > brown’ for another reason? The brown comes from salt water tainting the foam.You can use a hair dryer on the area around the ding to check for moisture. The heat from the dryer will bring the moisture to the surface of the foam and around the edge of the ding. Just rub your finger over the foam,if your finger is damp it isn’t dry yet.You can replace the brown foam with a piece of clean foam or sand some of brown foam off and apply Q-sel. If the Q-sel patch cracks then it was still damp, fill the cracks with more Q-sel and proceed with your repair