Hey, I installed my Future fin boxes in my EPS core using East system epoxy. I blended 5/1 resin to hardener as it says to and my epoxy is still not hardening (been like 3 hourse now! The leftover epoxy is hard as a rock in the bottom of the mixing cup but my fins epoxy is still liquidy! I spent many many hours sanding my blank and spent alot of money on this east system epoxy and hardener. Can anyone tell me what I should do/try??? Does east system epoxy not dry once one eps foam or what???
What is the working temperature? The resin in the cup heats when it hardens which helps it go off. If the working temperature is low and the thickness of the laminate is thin, the resin may take days to go completely hard depending on brand. What’s even worse is that it may soften at relatively low temperatures (in the sun in summer f.ex). Some resins will take a day to harden even at room temperature. So wait a day and see, and if your working place is cold, try heating it. Good luck.
It ended up hardening but took all day… Would it be alright to do a mix of 4/1 for faster curing or is it specifically designed for 5/1?
Also, I have a question about glassing my board. Measures 6’6" x 19 1/2" x 2 1/2". Its a EPS insulation blank and is low density so I plan to do double 6oz glass top and bottom and maybe a stomp pad. How many ounces of mixed epoxy resin should I have mixed for each side of the board (first ever board)?
Also I have 2 ounces of Dura Technologies red pigment I plan on mixing in. How much should I use in each epoxy mix per side?
I spent too much money on all this material to go about it without knowing EXACTLY what im doing;)
My rule of thumb is to cut glass to length, weigh it and multiply X 1.5. That might be a place to start for weight of total mixed resin. You’ll have to do some math to figure it all out. Once you cut the cloth for the outline your ratio will be slightly higher than that.
For a first time don’t be afraid to measure out a little more, like maybe 1.75X. Another tip would be to mix your color in the resin part first. Mix enough colored resin to have a reserve just in case.
If your resin is that slow to kick, a good idea is to seal your blank well with spackle and do some babysitting to make sure the resin doesn’t drain out of the laminate before it kicks.
The weight of resin by this method will be more than you might see posted elsewhere around here but frankly, I don’t know how some guys do it.
For what it’s worth, red is a tough (one of the toughest) color to get right in the laminate. EPS is particularly difficult to get a smooth surface on before laminating. Every scratch and puka will appear darker than the rest. I would at least consider spraying a water based acrylic red paint on the blank. A red laminate or even a clear laminate will be easier to get even color than red pigment in the laminate alone.
Only part im not clear on is "If your resin is that slow to kick, a good idea is to seal your blank well with spackle and do some babysitting to make sure the resin doesn’t drain out of the laminate before it kicks. "
For what it’s worth, red is a tough (one of the toughest) color to get right in the laminate. EPS is particularly difficult to get a smooth surface on before laminating. Every scratch and puka will appear darker than the rest. I would at least consider spraying a water based acrylic red paint on the blank. A red laminate or even a clear laminate will be easier to get even color than red pigment in the laminate alone.
Alternatively you can do an opaque lam, just mix some white into it. That way you cover up the pukas. Or do a splash of some sort to draw the attention away from any mistakes
Thnx Haavard. I really want to get this board glassed already so I guess ill just use the pigment I have (I got plenty of stickers to cover up the imperfections).
Before I start glassing, here are a few Q’s I would like to clear up:
I have 2 ounces of pigment, should I use 1 ounce per side?
I have no accurate way of weighing my glass cloth so can anyone tell me an amount of mixed epoxy (some more then I should need) in mL or oz per side? Again, board is 6’6" x 19 1/2" x 2 1/2" using double 6oz cloth each side.
Do I need to cover the screw and slot on my future fib boxes with tape before I glass? And do I sand the glass and tape off after it dries?
With those answered, ill be off to do the glassing:)
I don’t think 1 oz per side is gonna do it. With red if you don’t use enough pigment you end up with a tomato soup looking mess. I’d paint the blank red and save the red pigment for another project. Also mixing white with red will get you pink, not opaque red. For red you have to buy opaque red unless your shooting for pink. Other colors you can mix in white but you’ll get lighter colors. Also not all tints mix well with opaque white. Some will seperate during cure and then you have a real mess.
Why in the world did you go with east? I obviously sell resin. Doesn’t bother me that people try other systems (I figure they’ll eventually see the light) but East? Stuff does not have a good rep.
6’9" use about 15 ounces on the bottom and 20 on the deck. If you run short, mix a bit more to finish. With that resin you have a short pot life and a very long thin film set. Make sure you pour all the resin onto the board as soon as your done mixing. This will give you more work time. East blushes like crazy so you’ll have to give it a good washing before the second side and another before hot coating.
Wear gloves and DON"T use solvents for clean up. Wipe squeegees with some scrap glass or a paper towel and put aside. To use again sand the edge of the sqeegee with some 220 before use. Use 3 inch chip brushes for hot coats and throw them away after use. Don’t clean them. That system is unmodified aliphatic (the hardener) and is quite toxic. 5 to 1 systems all are.
Yes cover all the holes with tape and then trim the tape out with a single edged razor blade when the resin is gelled.
I guess ill just paint my blank with some krylon h2o paint as you mentioned.
I also have stupid question about the O’Fish’l Super Leash Cup. What side do I install facing up? Im thinking its the side with the bump but I rather be sure before glassing it in my board…
Also what is a cheap simple vent I can use for my board? I rather something small like a screw with a rubber o-ring or something like that… Any ideas?
With this figures out, im off to do some glassing:)
Bump up for the plug. Set the plug so that the lower part of the plug body on the bump side is flush with the foam. Also run the plug so the bump is parallel with the stringer.
I use the plug as a template for my router, but I need to make a jig.