As I see it, enamel is a coating that cures by oxidation. In a paint, it’s usually oil-based (but not always, the definition doesn’t require it).
You could shoot rattle-can enamel clear over it.
If you believed the surface was smooth enough, and if you believe the hot coat has sealed the lam sufficiently, you could leave it as is. Are there pinholes?
If you want to gloss with poly, I believe it won’t adhere, so the enamel paint will have to be sanded off, and you’ll have to re-do the decorative work with acrylic, then you can finish coat with poly or clear acrylic.
All I care about is that the enamel does not hinder the structural integrity of the board. So if it has potential to delam, even though it’s not under the glass, i will remove it immediately. I just have trouble understanding how a board could delam just from oil-based paint being on the DECK of the board. If it was on the foam it would be understandable, but if it were on the deck, it makes no sense. Are you implying that it would seep in through the pinholes?
But if the worst that could happen is the paint just chipping/peeling off, then i’ll just leave it alone.
So once again, if the enamel is over the very final finish of the board, (over the hot coat, and i am doing no gloss coat), can it still cause the board to delaminate as kokua stated?
And if so, should I remove it with acetone/paint thinner?
PRIMARY SANDING - All body panels and bonded joints that received acrylic lacquer are dry sanded to prepare surfaces for painting. A filler material (called putty rub) is applied to the entire body to fill minor imperfections.
PRIMER - Two coats of primer are applied (the first red and the second gray) and are oven baked for 60 minutes at 280 degrees F.
WET SANDING - The body is wet sanded to provide a smooth surface for the sealers. Most of the gray primer coat is removed with the red primer acting as a depth signal for the sanding operation. The body is dried to remove all moisture.
SEALER - One coat of sealer and one coat of color acrylic lacquer are applied and baked.
DRY SANDING - The body is dry sanded to prepare surfaces for the final acrylic lacquer.
LACQUERING - Three coats of acrylic lacquer are sprayed on the body to build up the required paint thickness. The paint is “rested” for eight minutes to permit it to partially set up and to remove excess volatile paint vehicle.
INITIAL BAKING - The body is oven baked for 30 minutes at 140 degrees F to harden the paint which permits the subsequent operation. Small interior and exterior parts are painted to complete the body paint schedule.
FINAL BAKING - To assure a durable, hard, high luster finish the lacquer is oven baked for 45 minutes at 250 degrees F. Reheating the lacquer permits the paint film to soften and allows surface blemishes and sanding scratches to disappear during the thermo-reflow process.
FINAL SANDING AND POLISHING - The body is lightly oil sanded and polished to bring painted surfaces to a high luster finish