Hi there, I m going to glass my surfboard tomorrow. The board has been shaped, patch pasted and sanded to almost 95% smoothy. To some extent, eps foam is a nightmare to amaetur shaper. To make it perfect w/o hole, I m gonna using epoxy + wood flour to fill and seal the blank. My question is, by using epoxy + wood flour to fill/seal the blank, the surface will be uneven and need another sanding. Am I right up this point? Or just using epoxy + wood flour to fill the holes and make another epoxy layer on top to seal the blank? Do I need to wait the filler dries up enough before putting another epoxy layer to seal the blank? Thanks. Crabie
Is there no way that you can get some spackle in HK? The great thing about it, is that if fills in any holes/gouges, helps to seal the foam, and most importantly is very easy knock off any high spots or blimishises in the spackle layer. By putting a sealer layer of epoxy resin and wood flour (?) on an unfinished surface you are making it very difficult to come back and even out your surface (unless you can get this mixture to fill in your gaps and sit tight on your blank). You want to avoid putting anything on that will be difficult to smooth out/manipulate once it has kicked, at this stage. As you probably know, you want as smooth as possible surface to laminate to. If you can get a flat sealer layer on your blank, I think your best bet is to LIGHTLY skip sand it. With a straight epoxy sealer layer (cheater layer) you don’t have to prep it before laminating to it (except for any little high spots). But since you are putting in this flour in it , the top surface might have some kind of texture to it. I think you are heading into uncharted territory, Good Luck.
Thanks Mike, I can’t get spackle in HK. And I did use drywall patch paste to fill the holes/gouges. The effect is great and smoothy. Be frankly, I filled with the patch paste and use a sand block w/ 120 grit sand paper to remove the paste. But each time after sanding, I found there’re new holes/gouges coming out. Then I have to paste again. Therefore I m looking another way to seal the blank instead of putting multi layers of drywall paste and sanding.>>> Is there no way that you can get some spackle in HK? The great thing about > it, is that if fills in any holes/gouges, helps to seal the foam, and most > importantly is very easy knock off any high spots or blimishises in the > spackle layer.>>> By putting a sealer layer of epoxy resin and wood flour (?) on an > unfinished surface you are making it very difficult to come back and even > out your surface (unless you can get this mixture to fill in your gaps and > sit tight on your blank). You want to avoid putting anything on that will > be difficult to smooth out/manipulate once it has kicked, at this stage. > As you probably know, you want as smooth as possible surface to laminate > to.>>> If you can get a flat sealer layer on your blank, I think your best bet is > to LIGHTLY skip sand it. With a straight epoxy sealer layer (cheater > layer) you don’t have to prep it before laminating to it (except for any > little high spots). But since you are putting in this flour in it , the > top surface might have some kind of texture to it. I think you are heading > into uncharted territory, Good Luck.
Use a foam pad, spray some adhesive on it and stick a piece of sandpaper on it I use 180 (but it depends on how hard your patch is). All you are doing to the blank is nocking off any rough spots/high points in the patch that might come about from you spreading it out on the blank. The patch is there to help seal the blank and even/cover everything out. When it sets you just want to true it up, without taking too much off. It sounds like you are taking too much off (that sanding block is not helping you out in this phase). I think if you go lightly over it with a foam pad you will have better luck. Remember to only use enough patch to cover your bead pattern on your blank and cover up/even out what you need. There is no use to putting that stuff on thick, you want a tight/thin layer on the blank. Good Luck.
Thanks Mike, In fact, I turned to use 220 grit yesterday. I cut it into pieces around 2" x 2" and sanded those patch pasted area. Its quite work!.. My sand block attached with a foam pad in the bottom and with a two small clamps in both end to click the sand paper. Its quite useful in levelling uneven spots. I think I did some incorrect setting before. May be the sand paper have not been pulled straight enough. The curl side hit the surface and creat another holes. I 'll start to shape another board today after glassing the previous one. I’ll evaluate the approach I used.>>> Use a foam pad, spray some adhesive on it and stick a piece of sandpaper > on it I use 180 (but it depends on how hard your patch is). All you are > doing to the blank is nocking off any rough spots/high points in the patch > that might come about from you spreading it out on the blank. The patch is > there to help seal the blank and even/cover everything out. When it sets > you just want to true it up, without taking too much off.>>> It sounds like you are taking too much off (that sanding block is not > helping you out in this phase). I think if you go lightly over it with a > foam pad you will have better luck. Remember to only use enough patch to > cover your bead pattern on your blank and cover up/even out what you need. > There is no use to putting that stuff on thick, you want a tight/thin > layer on the blank. Good Luck.