Ken, out of curiosity, why wouldn’t it be better to lightly sand than apply acetone, just for the sake of precaution. Also, doesn’t sanding dust turn clear in resin, so a light layer of dust would be fine?
Im not arguing, I’m just asking to learn.
hey strange
glad you asked
with poly lam resin when you wipe it with acetone the surface becomes tacky, no need to sand or rough it up.
when doing the same in epoxy then a scuff up is required.
as far as dust ,, the less dust the lest zits ,, I was refering to pre "gloss" preping.
preping is the gateway to a better end result for the next step.
the smoother the finish, the less sanding is required
when you can get a hotcoat to lay down and cure like a mirror then you only need to hit it litely with 80 grt then 100 grt
then prep for gloss.
when the gloss lays out and cures like a mirror then 600 dry and polish
I know this cause I push the envolope sometimes , but, on a good day with good temps I can throw down a very good gloss and polish.
If I get the fisheys or slabbing excessively I break out the 60 grt and just mow it off and do it again. no trying to patch it.
the more you fuck with it the more you will fuck it up.
show us some pics
Ok makes sense, thank you. I don’t do a gloss coat, I just go to up to 320 on the hotcoat to try and save weight.
OP, bummer that you have to sand that all off. It’s easy to sand through your cloth when your sanding off an entire hotcoat, so be careful…
dont have to sand it completely off, just back to level
Hi there, good people! Allow me that also direct sunlight or to much hit on the polyresin mix before the gel can damage the job cause parafin(from the hotcoat mix) doesn´t make it to come perfectly on surface(fisheyes or others). In this case my best guess is, resin became contaminaited with water vapor during the exterior hit process or got it from the air while getting gelcured.
I will get this chance to make a question of my own on this matter. It happens to poly hotcoats on epoxy glass to “delam” in brightshiny spots or small stains. This meaning sand failure spot or kind of dust or kind of grease.
My thought is, if I use a thin coat of lam resin(freeparafin) before the hotcoat, I will assure a much better bond between epoxy and poly.The objectiv question is:
Does polyester without parafin bond better than polyester with parafin?
Have fun. Miguel
“My thought is, if I use a thin coat of lam resin(freeparafin) before the hotcoat, I will assure a much better bond between epoxy and poly.The objectiv question is: Does polyiester without parafin bonds better than polyiester with parafin?”
…never tried that before, but I think that it would be a disaster with epoxy over fresh poly. Might make a sweet wrinkle finish for grip on the deck.
Thank you Jmoto on your reply but I never talked about epoxy “ON” poly, only the other way. And also don´t say nothing about “…over fresh…” any kind of material.
Have fun. Miguel
The paraffin will likely affect the bond. It is used as a surfacing agent (to be sanded or buffed), not for bonding between layers.
Hey Ken,
I too have done a quick wipe with acetone in an attempt to limit contamination issues when hotcoating and glossing a board that’s been sitting around for a few days. To complicate matters I still haven’t moved my compressor…I read somewhere that Styrene alone or with the parafin added works better. Ever tried this yourself??
hey Wood
no I have not tried wipeing with styrene,
never thought of it
styrene is very bad for humans, so is acetone but the acetone evaporates much faster
not sure about the cost effectiveness but I have more acetone than styrene
I just use styrene for thinning resin to wick into second cutlaps to clear up cut threads
I do hot coats emediatly over that so I guess it would work,,,maybe.
I would hate to compramise the lam with something Im not sure of.
Maybe Kokua or Gene or the Sano guy will chime in and shed some light
where the fuck is Vader????
hahahahaha
Miguel, Sorry, I missread that. I thought you were trying to epoxy over poly lam resin.
There is nothing cleaner than a freshly sanded surface...
Sources of contamination are as followed, but not limited to:
Gloves, rags, hands, airborne shit, compressors, dogs, kids, cars, neighbors, gremlins.
I personally never ever get fisheyes...never. I lay down perfect hotcoats and glosses....everytime. So you ask how do you do that mr cocky resinhead man..
1) Sand to 150 grit.
2) Dust off board with a beanch brush that only touches surfboards. And live in a box.
3) Run quality tape over the board to pick up last little dust specks and micro powder.
4) Only touch board with fresh paper towels between hand and board.
5) Never wash board with anything chemical..no acetone, no nothing
6) If I have to clean out a clogged bubble hole..or open one up. I have a can of computer cleaner aerosol spray, and a section of old of guitar G string that I can use as a tooth pick.
For me,clean,clean & allways clean is the good warm fleshy most desired cave.(joke)
Congratulations Resinhead for your simple, complete and very professional(also clean) list for achiving the perfect surface before any paint coat.
My only question:-Isn´t 150 grit to thin for the best (& safe) grip(adherence)???
Have fun. Miguel
depends. Alot of times I'll have pinlines of some other form of artwork. going with bigger scratches will allow the resin or paint to "track" in the groves from the sand paper. I've go as light as 320, and as heavy as 80, it all depend on whats going on with the board. As for a bonding to the surface. Even the stuff sanded down to 320 I've never had a gloss flake off, or peal up? Obvously the deeper the scratches the better the adhesion, and the heavier the gloss coat too. 150 is a good grit for all round rough up, and clean surface. Squeeky clean cave.
Resinhead, kind of you to answer and I couldn´t agree more with you. I can also say I´m happy with the quality of the hotcoat/gloss jobs I usually get.
What I could add is: to filter the resin(ladys regular collants,tites); to hit the resin and surfboard surface(this in case of low temperatures as it happens in Portugal); to spread roughly some resin allover the surface(to wet the entire board) and only after this to pour the rest of the resin, to softly spread it over the entire board trying to leave the thicker uniform layer possibble, only then to paint with the brush(very soft good wide brush) in single moves end to end of the surfboard and stringer to rails. Brush must be lightly grab in a 45 deegres position on horizontal and vertical alowing the resin to very slowly fluid on outside direccion. Take off brush excess resin after each move. Resin gel times are important. Too slow resin and parafin will run away from rails, too fast parafin want have time to come up surface. “Man” this is so easy!.. …when you already know!
Have fun and don´t despair… next time will be better!??? Sometimes.
Miguel
When do we get to wipe down the board with wet Seal Skin?
In case you havn't heard I have turned over a new leave. Seals are friends..not food. The new Southern California Marine fishing closures, and the Mexican $30 Fishing VISA (needs to be purchased everytime you go into Mexican waters) along our coast have crimpped my style, I have turned my attentions to freshwater beasts that roam the waters of Southern California. The Seal Slayer has been outfitted with a new Minkkota Power Drive V2 70 lb thrust with copilot remote control trolling motor, outfitted with a forward pedestal seat.
I am now hunting ol bucket mouth. Please be advised until this fishery has been closed down by the fucking tree huggers.
I have done pe foam stains / resin swirls and then finished with epoxy. Did not have any bonding issues. Just glassed epoxy right over the cured pe lam resin no extra prepping. If you go with a epoxy hot coat over a pe lam and you sand through to the pe layer you will notice that pe and epoxy do not finish out the same when sanded with the same grit. Like others have said it is typically done the other way around. Pe gloss over epoxy. Whatever’s. Lots of ways to do it. Sometimes they work ok ok, sometimes not…good luck!
Thanks for all the soiund advice. In the end I re-sanded as best I could and then lightly cleaned with acetone. The resulting gloss coat was near perfect as it oculd be bearing in mind the previous coat with the lighter patches. Anyway the key things learned here are to avoid contamination of the surface and resin. I think the source was from finger prints. From now on we all wear latex gloves when handling the boards.
Finally, Is there any advice for cutting out a fin box by hand ?- we have no router at the school. Can it be done with a good quality blade and metal ruler to cut through the glass? What is the best way to cut out the wooden stringer (a chisel?)?
Thanks again
MBARLING
Are you joking?
“Finally, Is there any advice for cutting out a fin box by hand ?- we
have no router at the school. Can it be done with a good quality blade
and metal ruler to cut through the glass? What is the best way to cut
out the wooden stringer (a chisel?)?”
Home Cheapo, Harbor Freight, ebay, Craigs List, Garage Sale
There are thousands of used routers super cheap.
Source one and donate it to the school.
Are you in the USA or a Third World Country?
Kind regards,
surfding