Epoxy gloss over Posca Pinlines

aloha, long time lurker from maui here.   just finishing up my second backyard build and owe most of it to the contributors here at swaylocks.  i’ve scoured the archives for info on putting an epoxy gloss coat over posca pen pinlines, and have found little tidbits of very useful information, but nothing super solid. I do have a few questions for the epoxy or posca guys, but i hope this thread will also serve as info for someone else in search of the same info. 

I’ve read about sealing the tape before laying pins, different methods of painting the pins either resin, india ink, etc.,  and decided on posca pen for the ‘simplicty’ and range of colors (i went with metallic gold).  i’ve read a lot of poly guys have had success with the poscas, but on the other hand have read many threads about bleeding after applying a gloss with epoxy.  Here is the process I used just now, in preparation for a final epoxy glosscoat in the coming days: 

  1. sand area to be pinlined in direction of lines @ 220grit
  2. clean area & lay tape
  3. seal tape with krylon matte clear aerosol
  4. paint pinline with posca
  5. pull tape while heatgunning the pinline
  6. sealed with another very light coat of the clear matte spray 

this is what i’ve done so far (still going to sand the pin real lightly with 320 before glossing) and i’m pretty satisfied at this point, for it being my second board and first attempt at pinlining.  just looking for a definitive answer from someone who’s tried a similar process i guess?  here are some things i am concerned about:

acetone in the matte spray.  I’ve heard about epoxy and acetone not going so well together.  im thinking by the time i gloss maybe tomorrow morning or the next morning, the acetone will have evaporated from the ever so light clearcoat i sprayed on.  i’ve read people had success with glossing over posca art after it’s been sealed with clear,  though im not familiar with the brand they used.  Im using krylon matte clear from the aerosol can.   I did a little test doodle on a different board, so i’m going to try seeing if the paint bleeds after smearing some resin around on the doodle  (i sprayed the doodle with clear, a bit heavy).  also bookmarked a thread about doing a quick pull of resin to remove contaminants before glossing with epoxy for a real nice result, so im really gonna jam that resin into the paint with the squeej to see if it affects it at all. 

if i were getting paid for this i’d probably redo it…but it looks plenty good enough by my standards for a personal surfboard…in my case, the pinline was to hide the fucked up edge of my fabric inlay and gouges from bad cutlapping (i know its easier to freelap with clear, im just trying to get my timing down pat with the epoxy for cutlaps).  without a solid even coat, the imperfections stand out a bit, but only when very close up.  im thinking its mostly the metallic hue of the ink that amplifies these imperfections though as higher and low spots are more ‘shadowed’.  oh well.  

it’s nowhere near professional but here’s the goods so far.  it looks more metalic in person but still lost a bit of it’s ‘shine’ or ‘flake’ after drying and clearcoat: 

I have had better luck using waterborne sealers whether used in conjunction with Poly or Epoxy.  I just lay it on over the pinline before I pull my tape with a small foam brush.  You can always do a test sample on another surface.  The clear spays are nice.  I use the Rustoleum Satin Clear for ding repair.  I would be more concerned about putting Poly over it than Epoxy.  You could forget the gloss and spray the whole board with a can of clear and after it’s dry wet sand smooth.  I do this with sanded finished boards when doing ding repair.  Works good. I’m suprised you didn’t have a problem with the chemical based sealer over the water based Posca…

PS   You’re doing some nice work for only a second board.  How’s Maui doing?  Lowel

Board looks good.   Doing an inlay right out of the gate is a strong move.   


I don’t paint.  I cheat.  I lay out automotive pinline tape and glass over it (using epoxy).  I’ve never tried it with polyester resin, though.  Greg Loerh showed us that one a long time ago.   

thank you mcding and gdaddy im sure i’ve taken at least some of your advice from some archived threads.  the water based clear sounds alot safer ill be sure to look into it.  i told myself when i bought the blank id stick to clear freelaps so i can get it in the water asap, but changed my mind after another amateur guy i know tried the inlay on one of his boards so i went for the challenge.  still learning the epoxy timing with cutlaps and my zipper cut needs work…  has been a lackluster winter for surf in maui.  however collecting unemployment and the surfin quarantine has not been so bad :slight_smile: the pins have a gritty feel to them when i run my finger over so i am debating whether or not i should even sand the pin.  the epoxy went on fine over the golden posca on my test panel, vigorous rubbing with finger on the paint, no funky stuff happened.   no sanding after the clear matte was applied. 

i have a small bubble that formed under my fabric after lamming it to the foam.  worried it wil eventually lead to delam down the line but it seems it might be a non issue. i tried slitting the bubble before lamming my cloth but the slits were sealed and stayed bubbled up.  was able to sand it pretty flat but a little cloth looks exposed.  i am thinking either fill with syringe, or slit it, glass on small cloth while squeezing out the air.   honestly i might just gloss right over it.  i really dont wanna sand into the fabric…and I wanna surf this board on this supposed south swell next friday…never get too excited for south swells in maui though

You know I have never tried that, but a great idea.  I used to see that tape for sale in an Automotive Paint store when I was in Calif. and always wondered if it would work.  Auto painters clear coat right over it.  No supply houses over here on the Oregon Coast, but I suppose I could buy it online.

I’ve never had any luck with a syringe.  Slit it, but when doing the patch get some resin in under the bubble by holding the cloth up at the slit with a razor blade.  Then put your cloth down and saturate.  Stretch a piece of wax paper or Saran Wrap over the patch and then put something heavy on top of it.  A gymn weigh or heavy brick.  Something to press the bubble cloth down.  You may have to use your thumb to repeatedly press it down.  Go up to Gott’s Glassing at Pauwela cannery and watch one of the best in the business do one sometime.  Eye opening.  Don’t bug him or ask questions though.  And don’t tell him I sent you.  Lowel

never woulda thought to put the weight on it.  nice.  everything went smooth. gloss coat went on OK. sanding and surfing soon.  id honestly love to go see dave do his thing.  would gladly quit my hotel job to be get some shop experience in any shop up there is something i was thinking about .  need to make some friends up at pauwela haha mahalo for advices.

Never quit your day job.  I remember Timpone telling me once that he wished he had a day job.