Does anyone have any experience applying epoxy to Ipe (the tropical hardwood that we really shouldn’t be using anyway)?
I was planning on helping out my father in law by glassing up a rudder that he’s used Ipe to add foil to. The wood is attached to the aluminum rudder with appropriate fasteners, so the glass job would just be for water proofing and protection. I figure that my RR epoxy would serve about as well as any…and I’m familiar with it.
I did a test about 10 plus years ago on glueing and finishing Ipe useing West Systems. The Ipe needs to be completely encapsulated with resin and cloth , any bolt holes or screw holes need to be drilled out oversize and the holes filled with resin then re drilled . If water gets under the glass and resin it will delaminate. Just before glassing the Ipe was wiped well with Laquer thinner then a thin coat of resin brushed on. When the resin was dry to the touch but still soft the glass cloth was put on and wet out useing a foam roller and when that was dry but still soft 3 coats of resin were rolled on with about 2 to 3 hours between coats. Allow the resin to dry for at least 3 weeks before putting it to use. In Regards to useing the resin over aluminum you need a special primer for aluminum which West Systems makes and sells. The other way to foil an aluminum rudder is to prime it glass it with one coat of 6 oz cloth drill the edges with holes every couple inches and glue in aluminum studs then build a mold around the edge and cast a rim around it with casting resin and after the mold is pulled the rim is foiled then several coats of glass cloth is laid up after that. this is a better way then useing the Ipe wood. By useing the casting method the foiled edge can not de laminate if you get a big ding in it .
I've had sucess in using a sanding sealer first and using thinned out epoxy. The epoxy is thinned with Isopropyl Alcohol to an almost watery consistancy and brushed on, several coats. The deck is right on Pitas (Mary's) Point and is exposed to salt air/water daily. The Ipe has discolored from the sun, but the epoxy has held up with occaisonal added coats. Porblem is, the stainless screws don't perform well in the elements over time. If I had to do it again, I'd countersink and plug the screw holes.
ps. ALL SIDES of the Ipe were sealed and epoxied before installation and coated after laid down as well. Joints (15 deg. bevel) were glued with straight 30 min. epoxy.
“The Ipe needs to be completely encapsulated with and cloth , any
bolt holes or screw holes need to be drilled out oversize and the holes
filled with resin then re drilled.”.
Here’s a technique I’ve used when drilling holes through the hulls of my various boats over the years…pick up some HDPE tubing with the same inside diameter of the width of the bolts you’ll be using. Overdrill the holes to accomodate the tubing OD, cut tubing to fit flush, bed the tube within the hole using marine epoxy, then glass the ipe over the tubing.
This will create a high density, fully waterproof hole bushing that will ensure the bolts will never “work” and damage the hole integrity.
Really good responses here on this thread and lcc’s is the one I would try first. That way its sealed on the end grain. I dig ipe and its durability, but would never use it in a surfboard, still it will make a beautiful and durable rudder.
I have built some garden furniture from ipe and found this company that specializes in problem woods in all kinds of applications. The chemistry of the resin is not petroleum based. I don’t understand the chemistry but it’s supposedly based on natural resins from wood which according to the company creates better compatibilty with oily woods. The product worked as advertized. Glue lines all still in good shape through two winters outside.
Thats exactly the finish my client is looking for. I’m building a custom dining table for a clients new dock on the river/beachside (its an island actually) in Florida, East Coast, out of wood from the old dock which happens to be Ipe wood. I’ve never worked with Ipe but I’ve already oiled it with BLO, as recommended by a “pro” other than myself. Should I have oiled it if I need to use an epoxy finish on it? The client wants a bar like finish like your bar. But now im reading that I cant use epoxy over an oil “sealer” without layers of water based poly and then you cant put water based poly over BLO and yada yada. Oyve’! Lol, Can you tell me what the different layers of finish you’ve used on your bar are maybe? It looks great and thats exactly what I need. If you could walk me through it a little with which materials you used i would appreciate it so much.
Hopefuly you see this and thanks in advance if you can help.
Or anyone that sees this, for that matter, that has any advice for me I’d greatly appreciate it.
Thank in advance,
Brad
Ps. Wow, I just realized this thread is 12 years old. Lol i thought it was from March 12th of this year, nope, thats march of 2012. Holy crap my luck. Oh well, if anyone sees this, help. Lol
