I am not an expert.
What the pics don’t show is I do a thin layer of clear first before I mix the color in the resin, to seal the edges of the tape. I had forgotten about that, but when I did the black stringer pinlines, I got a bunch of bleed, then it reminded me, haha!
Thanks for starting this one Huck. I about to do this on the Thrailkill 8-0 Pig I am now glassing.
At what point did you pull the tape? Did you use any thickener (cabosill)? Will you put a clear coat over it all after the pins are cured and trimmed?
all the best
No thickener but doesn’t seem like a bad idea, screed with the razor blade when it thickens, pull the tape when it gels, and yes will sand and clear coat.
WideAwake does better epoxy pinlines than me.
What was your method for the spread? Distance between tapes? I know some guys with a good eye and an artistic hand can pull tape free hand. I’m not that good at it. Are you?
Yes freehand. It’s not perfect, but good enough.
I used to do the thin clear sealing, too.
But since I use fineline masking tape I don´t seal anymore. I´m sanding the fillcoat to 150grit where the pinlines will be. Helps with the bleeding.
(the rest of the board is 100grit)
I use my coating epxoy (25min potlife, medium viscosity). Usually I just mix pigments and resin, no addititves. The pigments thicken the mix quite a lot.
I have thixotropic agent / fumed silica as well. But I only add it when I use colour paste. The colour paste gives a thinner mix compared to the pigments.
This is titanium dioxide (white pigment) with fineline masking tape and without sealing.
I pull the tape when the resin starts to get cheesy. Gives me smooth edges.
Nice. That’s the way to do them.
I like using quarter inch tape to space mine. Usually if you can use some kind of rail marker tool to to put down a pencil line on a sanded hot coat, pull 1/2 or 3/4 tape at that line edge, cover the pencil line with 1/4” along the 1/2 edge and then another 1/2 or 3/4 along the outside edge of the 1/4” and then pull the 1/4” tape, you’ll be good to go. Press the tape down like Huck did. Clean up the nose and tail with a straight edge and razor blade where necessary. Spends a little tape, but a pretty fool proof method to get proper spacing. The more practice, the better you get. I free hand my cut lap tape. That is good practice. Getting better. Hadn’t pulled tape in a long time. There were two very good painters up at the Pauwela Cannery when I was on Maui. Two very different approaches. Tom Petersen; who could pull an excellent line with tape for panels, stripes, pinlines etc. And John Glomb; who was a free hand artist who used airbrush, Posca pen etc. You may be familiar with John’s work on BYB aka Backyard Boards.
I cheat and use auto pinliner tape under the glass (a Greg Loehr trick). But then again, I don’t put the jewelry finishes on my boards.
I didn’t have the option to do anything under glass on this one, but I have done pinlines under glass before, its a good way to go in my opinion. On the other hand, I do like the tactile sensation of a resin pin line. No one said anything about my comment regarding screeding the resin with the tape using a razor blade, maybe everyone already does that, or nobody cares, but Kensurf taught me that, and I thought it was a pretty cool trick.
At what stage do you screed?
all the best
when it starts to thicken
