Epoxy Resin , SF Sealer or Waterbased Speedcote

Hello,

I am completing artwork on surfboard fins, and eventually surfboards but not sure how to seal it. I have looked through but struggle to really gain an understanding (it all seems very complicated)

Basically I trialed a shake can clear laquer but it hasn’t protected the edges and wear has scratched off the artwork and colour from the edges.

So, I’m going to try a more industrial finish.

I’ve heard, and seen, little talk of the waterbased speedcote to apply through a spray gun. Anyone had any experience on this?

I am also going to sample the epoxy resin for a gloss durable finish BUT note this does not have UV protection so may yellow overtime? As the fins will be under water and stored, I’m sure this could work?

Lastly there is SF Sealer which is a polyurethreane resin (not epoxy) but does have UV protection (less durable)

Any help on how I can make the artwork last longer would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks
Lisa

Sorry, if I didn’t understand that part properly, but how (acrylic, resin, rattle cans, posca pens, etc.) and when (finished surfboard? shaped blank?) do you apply your artwork?

Use this opportunity to show the members some of your artwork.

Behr floor and tile sealer. Wipe on with a cotton rag, burnish with a Grey 3M pad and a Orbital sander.

I recently bought a gallon and half clear automotive polyurethane 2 part, expensive at 170.00$.
Clients have wanted graphics on epoxy, tried laquere, Breakthrough, enamel.
Not many are compatible with epoxy or leave a thick enough covering, several sluffed off when wet sanding or pulled right off when taped on top of.
The 2 part has enough coverage, bonds tight, but requires a good respirator and skin covering, plus takes a while to be tack free. Better than going through the motions and have to do it over, I hate getting bit on the ass

Anyone try this?

https://shapersupply.com/collections/epoxy-surfboard-resin/products/z-seal-eps-foam-seal

I assume it’s waterbased so not so great for bonding but maybe great for prepping before color.

I prefer to have my artwork under glass if possible.

do you prefer the wet look or the low luster sealer?

I prefer the low luster. Better have really paid attention to detail if you use the Wet Look. It draws attention to imperfections.

Hey, sorry for the delay - I didn’t get any notification of responses and completely forgot!

Sidiabed, I only art on finished boards (usually secondhand) or fins (FCS/futures) so already glassed/finished - I use spray paints (rattle cans) and Posca pens.

I’ll check out the floor Sealer - just worried it also won’t have UV protection? I quite like gloss finish :slight_smile: but either or works! I like gloss finish on the fins not sure about the board? Open to suggestions!

I’ve got both epoxy and polyurethane resins to try and use to seal the artwork? Just concerned at the lack of UV protection. Not sure if it’s a good idea but heard it’s hardwearing just hope it doesn’t react to the art - was going to test the three different sealants on three fins to see what lasts?

I’ve used rattle can clear lacquer to seal artwork but it’s rubbed off will try attach the pic!

I haven’t got all the artwork on my phone but would love you to check it out on Instagram! @lrart_

Cheers all!
Lisa

Hi Lisa welcome to swaylocks - I’m an artist also, saw your Instagram page and clicked to follow. UV protection shouldn’t be a big issue with most paint, dunno about posca pens but they are widely used on surfboards, so I wouldn’t think them to be very UV sensitive. What is the reason for your concerns about UV protection?

You say that you only do your art on finished boards - so is there some reason that you would never draw or paint on a board or fin before it is finished being glassed? Nothing wrong with painting finished boards, but your artwork is much more protected under glass, and I find I have far less issues - i.e. trying to seal artwork with resin I have had some problems with fish eyes and uneven coats. When sanding, its then easy to go thru the artwork too if not careful. Haven’t had any of those issues when I glass over my artwork. I have done artwork directly on foam, and also between glass coats, never had any problems. I also like the look of artwork under glass better.

I am going to bump some old threads on artwork, and also some threads on searching the archives for you. If you have any further questions post 'em up here!

Lost/Mayhem and others have been doing Posca Pen art on sanded surfboards and sealing them with wipe on acrylic sealer for a number of years. Industry standard. Lacquer is no good for acrylic/water base inks. It will cause the art to bleed and run. Lacquer is also very UV sensitive. I have used rattle can Polyurethanes like sold at Home Depot and Lowes to gloss up ding repairs, but would not recommend it as a sealer over art. Water based sealers are your best bet.

some screenshots from instagram





Have you head of speedcote? It’s a water based Sealer that needs to be applied with spray gun; can mix with gloss resin?

Good stuff but it is a surfboard-specific spackle with titanium-white pigment added… I use it on EPS blanks … so it would go under the artwork, not over it.

x2 on the 2pac.
I tried a whole bunch of other stuff, from varnish, WR-LPU, etc…
Nothing came out as nice, consistent, and tough as the 2PAC.

Can you recommend a 2pac? Or have a link to something? Thanks :slight_smile:

I’m impressed.

From my understanding auto industry is light years ahead of us in UV resistant clearcoats so whatever you get your hands on should work.

I went to a local commercial auto place, since it is a pain in the ass to buy hazmat online and have it shipped to Hawaii.
For spraying in a gun , the guy recommended the cheap stuff, which was something like NASON 498
http://www.axaltacs.com/content/dam/NA/HQ/Public/Nason/Documents/TDS/NSN-TDS-498-00-Eng.pdf
I have a nice small gun, devilbiss sripro, and a true 2hp compressor.
http://www.autorefinishdevilbiss.com/products/devilbiss/gravity-feed-spray-guns-and-cups/sripro-spot-repair.aspx

Last time I sprayed, I used the 2k in a can, which is about $20 a can, and you have to use it within something like 24/48 hours. A lot less spray in the air, compared to a hvlp gun. Of course the result was not as good, got some spurts. much easier though, no cleanup. I am not a pro though, and my results are purely functional, would be laughed out of a shop :slight_smile:

Also for pinlines I used their black touch up paint, and looked outstanding.

Lisa, nice looking fins!
Would you consider doing artwork either on customer-supplied fins or on 16 or 24 grams per square meter rice (mulberry) paper to be applied to a fin at the glassing stage?
Feel free to send a personal message through Swaylocks → http://www.swaylocks.com/messages <–if you want to talk details offline.