With PE resin it’s always suggested that when you mix tint for a board, you mix it into the resin for both lams, then don’t catalyze one batch.
But with epoxy resin isn’t the color supposed to be mixed in after the hardener, so as not to mess with the reaction between resin and hardener? So, how do you match tint for epoxy if you can’t leave one batch “un-hardened?”
Or would an accurate measurement of tint be the best course of action?
You can mix the tint into the epoxy resin only, and then add the hardener afterwards. Which gives you the option of having the 2 batches of tinted resin matched for color.
The few times, so far, that I have done tints or pigments I have mixed it close to the maximum recomended mix (5%), to get a good solid color and it worked out fine for me.
Ditto what Johan1 said. I just finished an epoxy tint. I used GreatWhiteNorth’s method for creating a concentrate from artist pigment, mixed it into the resin, and then it sat for about 5 days before I mixed in the hardener. Worked like a charm.
I just tinted the gloss coat on a board today. I think I’m the only one who tints their gloss. I mix the tint with the resin, then run it thorugh a small screened strainer (tea?) before I add the hardner. This was you don’t have chuncks of pigment in the top coat. I just eyeball everything. Today I used 3 pigments, so it was a challenge, but as far as matching colors for top and bottom it went like this:
1 popcycle stick scoop of red/ 4 oz resin
2 sticks of blue / 4 oz resin
3 sticks of green / 4 oz resin
Then, when I glossed the bottom, I just did the same measurements. Sure it won’t match perfectly, but it’ll still look great. If you want a perfect color match, just mix twice as much into the resin and then set half aside until you need it. Add hardener whenever your ready for it.
Either way, just go for it. The only way to really blow tint is to overwork (blending multiple colors) it. Otherwise it’ll look cool whatever happens.
I’m working on you fins mate. Hope to have them for you over the Xmas break.
On tinting a board – consider basting the whole board before free laping with a clear lamination. There are several advantages to using this process, not the smallest of which is being able to do nearly invisible ding repair. I already dinged my 8’8". First wave yesterday some gal paddle right in front of me as I came out of the hole – tried to straighten out nicked the tail of her board – bummer – Had to cut a 2 inch section of the nose on one side of the stringer. Oh well – It’s just a little plastic.
Is the paddler ever right? From my standpoint if the roles were reversed I’m paddling in the impact zone and someone runs into me – it’s my bad. I know some surfers have run down people on purpose but when you’re trying to aviod all confrontation — ???