I’m repairing a major ding on the bottom of a SurfTech longboard
It’s a sandwiched multi layer laminate over EPS foam
Similar to the construction of EPS Windsurfers or Standup Boards.
So this board is a couple decades old and I’ve done other repairs before this and it’s gotten to be sort of hideous looking , because the fabric is brownish, underneath the white outer coat,
and everywhere there’s a repair, there’s a brown spot.
It would be nice to make it all one color again so I’m looking at either applying a tinted opaque (probably white) finish coat or else purchasing some White Epoxy Finishing Resin.
It doesn’t have to look brand new when I’m done
I just want to get rid of all the unevenness and faded and brown spots .
I have some Resin Research Clear Laminating Epoxy, already.
And I also have some clear polyester glossing resin that someone told me could be applied over sanded RR Epoxy - But I haven’t ever tried it.
I’m interested in hearing suggestions on how to deal with this project.
Would be nice to see some pics. I think with Surftech the answer is gonna be paint. In my experience its hard to get a solid covering coat by adding pigment to a finishing coat of resin. I would probably just fix all the dings, then paint it, if you want to get a uniform finish again. Auto paint is what they used originally on those, but you might try the rattle can spray epoxy that the big box stores sell.
Paint huh ?
That’s interesting.
Is paint what they use on Windsurfers and stand-up EPS/Epoxy boards ?
I’m really impressed with how durable and dent/ding resistant the construction of those type of boards are.
But I’m not sure of the construction materials or technique.
I’ve laminated a few polyester or epoxy + fiberglass over foam boards and nothing is as durable as these boards that use some type of opaque coating over brownish fabric.
Kevlar ?
Thanks for the info
I’ll try to get some pics soon
Well, I’m no expert, but my understanding is that auto paint is the final coat on Surftech boards. Looking at the website, they also mention a plastic coating on the Utility Armor boards: “the board receives an ABS/ PC plastic heat-molded shell for an extremely durable layer of armor”
But if you’re trying to imitate the look on a repaired board, paint will probably be the closest thing. You can do some google research on the toughest paints, although I have seen guys (internet postings) just using rattle can paint with a coat of clear over it.
It would also probably be worthwhile to spend a little time on The Board Lady website, she’s retired now but the website is still up. I included a links to a couple pages below, but the website has a lot of information if you spend some time clicking around and reading. There is also a link that allows you to donate if you find the website helpful and want to contribute a bit to keeping it online.
Im not familiar with these boards, could it be a polyethylene shell? I know some SUP boards use that for their shell. Very durable and has that same look.
I’m not sure either, but I’m about to find out more.
This is the only board I’ve worked on that’s like this.
But when you sand through the white colored coat it’s brown and there are areas where ehe layers are held by staples.
I don’t do a lot with these boards either, as I mainly just repair my own boards. But on occasion I have had the opportunity to work on a few. The idea is a cheap lightweight core with a very strong outer shell that is produced in a factory using proprietary methods, sometimes involving vacuum forming the shell. Not exactly user friendly for home repairs, but do-able nonetheless.
The longevity of those is amazing.
50 yrs of regular use is possible.
I started shaping / glassing in the early 90s because it gave me an opportunity to try different designs and learn what surfboard design is about.
When I started, one of the guys told me that a mediocre design with a light glass job will surf better than a good design with heavier glass.
It’s true, as long as you get a few basics right.
But also true, is : They wear out quickly.
Another thing : It isn’t the weight that kills performance it’s rigidity.
Anyhow - Step by step I’m making a design that surfs the way I like to surf, but has good longevity.
I should document that sometime. But I had to take a break because shit happened.
I think compsand is the backyarder version of the same principles. My boards tend to be a little heavier, and last many years, but they are longer and not dependent on flex, and I’m not a high performance surfer.
In the early 90s my first longboard that I shaped and glassed for myself, was 4oz bottom and 4oz x 2 deck - 9’0"
Even though my shaping and surfing skill has improved since then, I surfed better on that board than I have ever since.
It bummed me out that it lasted about 3 months.
Then I put a deck patch on it to slow the de-lam, and the stiffness of a layer of 6 oz cloth killed the performance.
So I’ve been sticking with heavier boards since then , and after 3 decades I can almost make a board that I can perform the same moves on, as on a lightweight, 1 season board.
But If someone likes noseriding and glide then heavy boards are excellent.
Also it seems like if someone wants to do hot-dog style surfing , It’s probably do-able , but they’d have to try some different boards to find what works .
Lots of variables !
Asym ?
Even more variables !
I build in composite. Surftec uses Divinicel for their skins. It’s basically sheet pvc. Works great, strong, flexible and super dent resistant. But discolors with UV exposure. This is why all Surftec are painted. For repairs I use epoxy appliance paint available in spray cans. Many colors, durable, easy to use, fairly cheap.