EPS Epoxy POS...BUT I LOVE IT!

I feel the need to say “long time listener first time caller”. In other words i have been floating about swaylocks for a long time, and now its my turn to get involved. I just finished up my second board. The first one i did came out horrible! Mainly cause i didnt have a clue. after i was finished with it i found swaylocks, and was able to identify my major problems, and fix them in board number 2. So thanks to everyone for that.

I live in Calgary Alberta Canada. Pretty bloody land locked. Prior to living here i was born and raised in london, and lived for 8 years in san diego. When i ended up in calgary my need to get in the water drove me to jump in glacier fed rivers to surf crappy standing waves. Originally i was using a 4’11’’ fish, and a 6’2’’ al merrick. But, im a longboarder at heart, so i wanted a more longboard feel. So, i shaped both my boards in a longboard design, cut down to 6’6’'.

I used EPS pink insulation foam. There are two sheets of it, one is 1.5’’ thick and the other is 1’'. i glued them together with Wood glue and bent the rocker into them. I left them to set for 5 days. I like wood glue, cause it techniclly drys to be as hard and as wood.

Then i got shaping. I dont use power tools, just a saw, surform, and alot of sand paper. The glass is one layer of 5.3oz on the bottom, 2 layers of 5.3oz on the top. The fins are my own design idea. Because the river waves force you to ride forward there isnt a need for deep running fins. So, i went with sort of keels, they run 2’’ deep, and are 7’’ long. They will hopefully give me enough control, but still be loose to throw the board about a bit. I didnt have enough time to lay up a fibreglass sheet for them so i took a quicker route. two pieces of plexi glass that sandwich a layer of 5.3oz cloth is what they are made of. In the pictures they still arent attached totally, or sanded.

The block, bent and cut out.

done shaping i wanted to experiment with some things, so i cut a crap chennel in the bottom.

done shaping

Deck channel on the tail…dont know if this is going to do anything at all… but i thought i would try.

Painting the foam. Used normal house paints. The crappy pin lining was done with one of those white out tape dispensers.

the fins

Profile. yep, she is a banana… im concerned about that, way too much rocker, but who knows…maybe it will work anyway. This is only board number two, so its ok to me if there is too much rocker, cause the only way im going to learn anything is through trial and error.

Tail looking forward. I was hoping this would show the deck and bottom channels…

me. happy at the end of glassing.

And, just to compare how far i have come since the first attempt… here are pictures of board number one. Im so happy with the huge improvemnet in my skills between these two boards!

My first board…“The Pride of London”

And yes, even though its a POS, the glass is horrible, and the shape is AWFUL…she both floats, and rides.

Cheers,

    Paul 

    <a href="http://www.riversurfing.ca">www.riversurfing.ca</a>

I love all the different ways people figure out how to have fun. You’re stoked! Those keels look like the kind which work fine for wakeboards & kiteboards - no reason they shouldn’t work for you. It always seems a lot of fin area is there on a surfboard for drive - and you definitely don’t have any section-beating issues :slight_smile:

Who knows - maybe you’ve just discovered the perfect river-wave rocker. 6 more boards and you’ll be the world expert. You probably already are the Alberta Provincial Expert…

Great work :slight_smile:

Thanks benny! For me, i just like shaping the boards. The fins were inspired by a wake board i saw. I thought, they would work a little bit better. and if they dont, i will no that. I think the best thing about swaylocks is the way people are willing to experiment with different designs, process and materials. I will have the new board out on the weekend… hopefully it works. If not…i have a kick ass sled for the winter!

Cheers,

      Paul

Hey calgaryblue I think Ill be in Calgary in july for the stampeed. Maybe we can meet up? Im not the greatest shaper but i have always been interested in river surfing.

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Hey calgaryblue I think Ill be in Calgary in july for the stampeed. Maybe we can meet up? Im not the greatest shaper but i have always been interested in river surfing.

Stampede eh? Get ready for an awful lot of headaches! This city goes totally bonkers for the stampede. We are talking about a modern big city of a million people all hung over, or drunk, dressed like cowboys for a full week. hahahaha

If you make it up you should deffinately get a hold of me. If you are planning to jump in the river, bring lots of rubber!!! this water is cold, it comes from glaciers and snow melt…brrrrrr… In the summer you can survive in a 3/2, booties are a neccessity and gloves are wonderful.

Cheers,

      Paul

Dude!!! To see your stoke next to your board… You made it, out in the “middle of no where” - Well, it doesn’t get any better than that.

Re. your fins. You can always build up or sand down… Nice paint job… Too much rocker! Ha! I’m a fan of the big rocker…

Taylor.

YEEEEEEWW go the BANANNA boar. Sweet rocker :smiley:

Thanks for sharing that with us mate, that’s what Swaylocks is all about, it’s not how good a shaper you are, or you only surf a couple of times a year or whether you rip on a bic, it’s about THE STOKE…

Good to see someone else experimenting…

Well, i got board number 2 out in the water on the weekend. It works, not very well, but who cares? The important lesson is that there is such a thing as too much rocker! Lesson learned.

This past weekend there was the annual Kananaskis Whitewater Festival. The KWF is a huge party and kayak weekend. they invited the local surfers to get out, set up a comp and have a laugh. So, i can proudly say that we have just held North America’s first EVER river surfing comp, and only the second such event outside of Munich Germany.

It rained the whole weekend. During the surf event we actually got snowed on, then sleet, add in a 10 minute period of hail, then more rain. We are deffinately in Canada.

The event went really well. We had a heat and final format worked out, but once we got in the water that went to hell and we decided to just surf. In the end, we choose a winner over beer. Riding board number two i placed second, but thats not all that important.

Anyway, here are a few pictures. Im getting started on board three… This whole shaping thing is becoming more of an addiction then anything else.

Me, riding Board #2

The “Competitors”

Ben, the winner.

Me, on Board #2

Decided i needed to try shortboarding. My next shape will be like this board.

Me, “Shooting the boot”

The Venue. YEp, there is snow in them there mountains!

Cheers,

      Paul
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Me, "Shooting the boot"

Oh God, that’s just wrong.

I think your banana rocker works well on that standing wave over there!

Indeed, you don’t have to try a longboard on that, nice job :wink:

Little remark, that pink foam isn’t EPS it’s XPS!

EPS is the foam with the white bubbles.

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Me, “Shooting the boot”

Oh God, that’s just wrong.

YEa, its a bit un plesant… its an old rugby tradition we wave brought in… hahahahaha! Thankfully it was my own boot.

Cheers,

       Paul

this is a great thread! thank you Calgaryblue… your stoke is contagious

i’m hundreds of miles away and laughing!

Calgary,

Great boards. Looks like you guys are having too much fun. The Stampede sounds like a blast to me. Drinking out of the bootie? That’s worse than drinking the bong water. Crazy f…ing Canadians. Love it!!! Mike

sweet. ditto on the bootie beer. That’s just plain wrong.

What direction is down stream?

How do you paddle into the wave?

What happens when you fall?

hahahahahahahahahaHA…

I can’t believe I missed this thread … [or , rather , disregarded it , because I thought it would be another thread showing a perfect board with one fly’s left teste stuck in the resin … how WRONG I WAS !!]

it’s just plain BEAUTIFUL , maaan !!! [the thread , I mean , and the 'umour , maaan ! ]

i laughed as much as i did reading “the boys” thread on his massive board he made in his garden ,

and the standup paddle photo thread of the homeboy guy on a lake-like day at his local beach !

[i think i’m getting an idea now of why canadians cop s*** from americans ?!]

hahahhahahahhhh

keep up the good work , mate !

I was looking through your photos of the guys surfing the river ,

and

THIS made my day …

" Ben, the winner."

woohoooo , I WON !!!

And I can’t even REMEMBER being there …well, you guys sure know how to party / drink beer [?bear?] / 'stampeed" [french spelling there?] , and wear funny clothes [see photo below] , and make do for drinking apparatus’s [?'apparatii" ?? ] , with STYLE .

“Zap” , if only he was still with us , would be proud …[naughty canuck got himself banned after three posts …STYLING …hahahahhhhhhhh !]

ben

“i’m a lumberjack and i’m okay …” etc

rooster …are you saying it’s WRONG to drink bong water , then ? damn , all those years WASTED . And I thought it was doing me GOOD ! […at least , that’s what my MATES always told me]

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What direction is down stream?

How do you paddle into the wave?

What happens when you fall?

Downstream is after the wave.

There are a variety of ways to get in to the wave. Being that we are the first guys in the west to do this stupidity we have had to use good old trial and error to figure it out. We usually use three methods depending on the wave.

  1. From the eddie. This is the currentless area to the side of the wave. You can stand there, and jump into the wave, then just stand up.

2)Paddle from the eddie. Sometimes its too deep in the eddie to stand, so we paddle upstream and over the back of the wave.

3)On the fly. This is putting in upstream, floating down into the wave and paddling hard to catch it. This method is usually used in big stuff like sturgeon falls.

4)miscellaneous others. We have tried other stupid stuff for laughs. Including, putting a step ladder in the eddie, and trying to air into the wave…Didnt work, but it was fun!

When you fall any number of things happen. On stuff with short eddie, you need all the time you can get to get into the eddie. So, you ditch the board, and swim hard for the side. You let the board trail behind on the leash and swim fast! Some waves are calm below them, so you have time to grab the board and paddle to an eddie. The pictures i posted are of “New Wave”. Below new wave it gets dodgy. the eddie is really short so its the ditch and swim method. 10 meters below the wave is the “bone yard” its a crazy very shallow very quick, and super rocky bit of river. about 30 meters below the bone yard the river bends right. at the bend there is a massive stone wall we call the tombstone. if you swim, and run the bone yard, the tombstone becomes a real heavy issue. The current pins you to it. we had a guy swim it, and get stuck there. his board was keeping him stuck in place, so he had to ditch the board and leash, and continue swiming, and enter the “Race Coarse” another set of rapids. That day was pretty sketchy, and we had to launch a bit of a river rescue.

I was givin the boot to drink cause i swam the bone yard on saturday. You swim, you get a boot. If you need to be rescued you buy beer for the crew. its a good system! hahahaha!

Some waves are less scetchy. in april i rode a place called sturgeon falls. Its a series of green waves, some as tall as 6ft, and one barels!! After it, it just flushed you into a lake, so it was pretty safe. Although, i felt a bit like laird or something. Cause i had a boat and driver in the lake waiting for me. After i got flushed, the boat would swoop in, scoop me up, and run me back up the rapids! hahahaha! Sturgeon is pretty variable. In spring its massive, in summer it calms down a lot. anyway, here are some pics of it.

And two videos. When i saw the "im a lumberjack picture i had a good laugh, cause we did in fact have a sing song song on the weekend… heres the video.

http://s8.photobucket.com/albums/a17/CalgaryBlue/?action=view&current=MOV00277.flv

and one more video. This is me surfing poorly on saturday evening.

http://s8.photobucket.com/albums/a17/CalgaryBlue/?action=view&current=MOV00238.flv

Cheers,

      Paul

What’s it all about “eh”?

You folks have more stoke than a schoolbus full of groms…

My humble opinion is that you don’t necessarily have too much rocker, just not enough board. Experiment with little more length and I would expect you should actually be able to shoot out in front of the wave more, especially if you can get a flatter section in the nose area, keeping the overal “scoop” in the board for turning…

Man… you guys are crazier than those whackos on the great lakes… keep the stoke going!!!

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What’s it all about “eh”?

You folks have more stoke than a schoolbus full of groms…

My humble opinion is that you don’t necessarily have too much rocker, just not enough board. Experiment with little more length and I would expect you should actually be able to shoot out in front of the wave more, especially if you can get a flatter section in the nose area, keeping the overal “scoop” in the board for turning…

Man… you guys are crazier than those whackos on the great lakes… keep the stoke going!!!

Thanks! I think we are a pretty fired up group of guys. We would have to be to enjoy water thats just above freezing, on a shite wave, in the middle of canada. But seriously, surfing is where you find it.

Length, we have tried a variety of boards. right now the general consensus is that 6’6" is pretty much the peak length for most waves we ride. I have taken a 7’6’’ onto the new wave, but there isnt much room. We tried everything from my 4’11 right upto the 7’6’'.

Cheers,