So i finally took the plundge and bought up alll my supplies (2lb eps, bass stringers, epoxy and cloth soon enough). I glued three 1.5" layers of the eps to make a 2’x8’x4.5" eps block. I then proceded to glue in an eight inch bass wood stringer, all do with epoxy. I wish i would have found this forum based site before i actually started to make my blank because i am now unsure if the use of epoxy to laminate the blank is overkill and will be to heavy. But afterall this is my first board to shape and its all about learning so, heres to knowledge. From there i cut my basic shape, and traced the rocker to the side of the blank. from this i learned i would have been much better off pre cuting in the rocker with a hot wire and the adding a sort of pre cut stringer, nothing like endless hand planing. After that ordeal i continued on to produce my final shape, using a surform, multiple sanding blocks, a handplaner, and all sorts of wire mesh. I must admit shaping boards is a form of art and u guys out there are absolutly amazing that can do this absolutly flawlessly. after finallizing my shape, i settled into sealing my blank with DAP combined with distilled water. When i finished that i was the presented with the problem of glassing and coloring and or painting. The actual glassing process i am not worried about, because i have built many composite based skateboards before. although i am utterly confused about what layup to use on my board, these are some posibilities- deck-3x4oz/bottom-2x4oz or deck-2x6oz/bottom-1x6oz or deck- 2x6oz/bottom1x8oz or deck-2x6oz/bottom2x4oz. I want this board to be stong and durable with priority, yet still light. this also brings me to the problem of paint, can i paint on the sealer with an acrylic paint? or would that mess with the bond characteristics? well any help would be greatly appreciated as i am soon to glass my project board. - cody
I made a 6’3 from #2 EPS, no stringer, glassed double 6 ounce with a 6 ounce deck patch, and double 6 ounce bottom.
Weighs exactly the same as my PU/PE that I copied, about 3.3 kilos.
I didn’t seal the blank, used a thixotropic resin and added extra collodial silica (aerosil).
Pretty damn solid, you can squeeze it with you hands and it will depress, but only slightly, and it springs right back.
Very stiff though.
I think that glass schedule was overkill.
I’d reccomend 6 + 4 with 4 deck patch, and 6 + 4 bottom.
Will still be super strong, and as light as a pro board. May flex alright as well.
You could go lighter than that, but not much, then your just making another disposable board.
Liquitex make great waterbased acrylic paints, and their “Basics” range are fine if you want to go cheap.
Don’t lay it on too thick and avoid painting large areas, and you should be fine.
Same with the Dap, just enough to seal the blank and make it look good, any thicker will promote delamination.
I bet you will be thinking about trying vacuum bagging before the year is out…
Good luck with the project!
Kit
thanks a bunch. haha vac-bag already been down that road with skateboards, froget about vac bagged surfboards.
I like to glass my boards with 2x4 oz deck 2x4 oz bottom on a 2.0 EPS 1/8" basswood stringer.
The weight is 5.4 pounds. This is the weight Pro’s like. If the board doesn’t get a few pressure dings it’s glassed to heavy and will hurt some ankles when landing after a long floater or big air. The deck should give a little. Unless you make boards for begingers then glass them heavey. Good surfers like to break there decks in like a new pair of shoes.
The average board on the WQS is: 60 1/2" x 18 1/4 x 2 3/16" with a weight of under 5.5 pounds.