I remember taking so much grief from the Foster Village guys about our/my claim to the spot I had found, “yeah, Outsides”, Roger and I scouted the reef for a year or more, it was all so shallow, coming up from 6,000 feet deep to almost dry reef from Sand Island to the Pearl Harbor entrance. Then off the military dump by Ft. Kamehameha one day we saw white water coming across the reef and peeling, small day 2-3 feet, but something to keep an eye on. I paddled out one day on Roger’s board, long paddle 500-600 yards across the sea plane runway first, then 2-3 hundred yards of foot deep water with landing craft traps all along it. When I did get “outside”, there was a pretty well formed wave breaking on this strip of reef. I surfed it about a half dozen time before anyone else would paddle out with me, then the summer of '63, most likely an el nino year, the south shore pumped, radio KUMU’s surf report was calling town 10-15 with 18 foot sets.
We didn’t have cars, maybe Dick Furr drove the boards, but it was breaking big and peeling down the reef perfectly, it was as big as the radio said, the wave stood up and started into a long wall that had this sick back door bowl bending at the end section with a blast of spit. My brother Terry, a goofy footer was on the lefts coming back at it from the other side of the channel in the reef, I got a lot of the smaller waves, but took off on a monster and pearled at the bottom, but the good part was the wave backed off quickly on the inside and the boards didn’t go that far over the reef.
It was quite the feather in our caps, until we bragged about it at school, being from Hickam, we were just regarded as a bunch of kooks who couldn’t have found an unridden big wave spot or got any waves there, they referred to us as the “Hickam gutter surfers”, because we would skim board the streets after heavy rains. You all know how much ridicule surfers can dish out, Roger and i found shipping crates of Western Cedar that helo rotor blades were shipped in at the dump, some how we got them to the base hobby shop for stringers, but me being a “genius”, had to splice them for the length and rocker of boards I was building. Someone who was a good cartoonist at school created an “Outsides” movie poster with the giant waves, charictures of us and a door prize raffle for a Phillips Surfboard with it’s carefully drawn spliced /scarfed stringers.
Yeah, well I showed em’ all, only took another 45 years !!!