so ghetto rat told me a terry martin is ill story
I told him about a friend of mine
intubated on morphine drip in ICU
he also spoke of guys on sways who dont surf
finding fault with him riffing on kook craft jobs.
I wrote in part:
The artificially elevated in our little subculture are the same
as the media elevated in world at large. there is no one
bigger than life and the cost of admission
is casting off this mortal coil,
the body only has a limited use .
The other guys that went already can be
ignored some what as long as they aint been
close enough to touch.the wanna's,-do -be-also rans,
of the world are stretching wings they only kinda believe
they can grow.Only after they do grow these wings
will they know to shut the fuck up and fly....
this surfing from hawaii is more than
a thousand years old
our attitude of knowing shit
at best bases itself on a fraction of knowledge
at most a hundred years old .Me at sixty ,I am amazed
at the impact reading hawaiian lore from 200 years ago.
just imagine what those old guys would think of us arguing
the fine points of alvin and the chipmunks
laying claim to chumash islands
and selling the name to some snow kook industrialist
and freighting blanks back and forth on the freeway
from north county to santa barbarito.
as the hyper critical kids by the fire get passed
the torch we too must become the stoic quiet old guys
nodding our heads
like taro leaves in the rain
pretending we are not
crying out loud.
yep my dad used to say it:
'' FOR CRYING OUT LOUD! ''
aloha from waipouli
...ambrose...
god bless us all
we are the father son
and wholly ghost.