Extra 4oz. (ala G.Cooper) method..I need an exlpanation

I can’t seem to find the post that talks about Gene putting an extra layer of 4oz. cloth over his “normal” lamination. Does he just laminate the bottom as normal, let dry, and then laminate another layer of 4oz. on top of that on the bottom of the board? I thought I remembered someone saying that it brought out extra depth in the final product if you’re using Volan…Would it make any difference if you’re glassing with regular 6oz.? Do you do the same on t he deck? Thanks…

As I recall, the logic behind doing this was to gain more strength. You still get the added depth (the 4 oz. lam was clear) but without a thick hotcoat which adds no strength. A normal gloss coat goes over the 4 oz. I tried this method on some test panels, and you need to be a very good laminator and an even better sander.

its 12:07 in my town .I justacme in from the shed I’m sittin dusty at thiski board…ijust did that 91Y boards first thru fourth steps in my glass plan that maximizes depth for what that’s worth…I must confess, padre, I color the foam on the deck with tints mixed seperately and they get globby by the time Im done with em so I got this little relief map mess stackin up… well then I ve done that I flip and glass the bottom freelap yje irregularities are either lost in the multi color deck or I enhance the fabric wrackage with a contrasting hue all of which I hot coat and lump sand to reveal the imperfections as I sand through the layers of color then i laminate the the deck clear with two layers and a deck-patch of assorted oz cloths to actuate the optimum weight this is plenny layers resin and plenny depth f cler over the color ,which is very entertaining I might add…ambrose…every board is a test…panel?



glass the bottom. grind laps. glass the top. grind laps. then freelap 4oz with very short laps and after curing grind it smooth. it would help you with 6oz but the biggest difference is noticed when using 8oz volan.



Tenover, The way I recall the method you described is this:

Lay an extra layer of 4 oz. on the bottom at the same time as you lay down the 6 oz., with the 4 oz. layed over the 6. The 4 oz. doesn’t have to lap all the way. Then apply the hotcoat. Sand the hotcoat right down to the 4 oz. weave so you can see it, but not into the 6 oz. In effect, you sand most of the hotcoat off, and it acts as a filler in the fabric. Then gloss.

The extra layer of glass gives strength without building up thick layers of resin. Then the gloss coat can remain faily thin. Doug

Thanks guys. Austin- I think the way you described it is how I remember it…Maybe I’ll give it a shot, maybe not.

Here’s what Gene said in his post on June 8:

“first we put a layer of clear 4oz on the bottom and rails of each board after the standard laminations, then a thin sanding coat. we use that 4 oz as a buffer(instead of a thick hotcoat) when we sand which leaves quite a bit its weave showing. then the thin gloss and polish. this leaves a minimum of unreinforced resin(stress cracks can occur in thick unreinforced resin when the board flexes). the process is labor intensive but it eliminates future stress cracks and improves the strength to weight ratio.”

He added later that the 4 oz was freelapped 1" over the rails.

I’m jumping into this late, but that’s how I’ve done a few. The 4 oz is applied as a filler coat instead of a globbing hot coat. It adds strength, and you virtually sand the whole thing off. One thing I do is put the 4 oz over the 6 oz and let the overhanging 4 oz lap hang there, don’t tuck the free lap under. (Q: How do you keep the resin from running under and on to the deck? A: put a tape edge like a hot coat on the 6oz rail) Once the 4 oz kicks to a semi hard gel, I take a razor blade and cut it flush with the break in the rail and tape. Very minimal sanding, and no worries about getting that free lap flat or bubbles, just blend the 4 oz into the rail break.


I like Resinheads method with the razorblade.We used to call them “zipper laps”.The one inch overlap works fine also.Where some guys get it wrong is thinking you don’t hot coat the four ounce.You do hotcoat it just not as much resin.This adds strength for sure but the true magic is when the board gets polished…like a mirror with no bumps.(presuming you shaped a no bump board). RB

hey tenover, my recommendation for doing your first glass jobs is to forget all the fancy advanced stuff. just do standard glass and get the board in the water. keep it simple.

as far as the method goes, i’ve zipped it before like cleanlines discribed but after it’s hotcoated the zip lights up on darker colors, even after being styrened. you have to sand too far into the rail to remove the zip line and you loose the advantage of the clear 4oz on the rail when sanding.

also, i don’t think it adds depth and i know it doesn’t add weight when done correctly. we sand into that 4 so it’s no deeper than a hotcoat when it’s done. i’ll give my polisher the credit for the shiny board and the “depth”.

i can’t believe austin and others took to this method after my discription. it adds a lot of pain to each lam. i guess there’s more masocists out there than i thought.

Hey Gene, the V-Bottom you sent Justin is pretty hot, he got some good ones last night and today…

gene… after you suggested that i have not done anything but that. it works so well. It sounds kind of psycho, but i set out to learn everything i possibly could about glassing. So i searched and read everything you have posted on swaylocks. i also did the same thing for jim phillips and r. brucker(cleanlines). Talk about an extreme learning session.

Austin S.


don’t forget kokua…the man is a genius. although, he posts a lot (probably because he has all the answers)…but still, that’s some heavy reading.

totally. i completely agree with you. maybe one day i will get to go to his island and check out his stuff.

Austin S.