Failed pin-line and I don't know how to fix it.

So im working on a 9’4 with a fabric inlay and everything was going well until I did a hotcoat with white tinted resin.

I pulled up the tape and chunks of resin peeled off with it.

I sanded what was left of the hotcoat off and sanded through parts of the glass. I patched them up nice and decided I should do a pinline.

Well I should have let the resin out to stiffen up a bit because it ended up bleeding trough the tape. I didn’t notice until I pulled the tape.

So I started sanding and the resin must not have been fully cured and it gunked up and no matter how much I sand it just spreads gunk.

Is there anything I can do or do I have to trash it???

I’ll upload pics when I get home tonight. Thank you very very much or any helphelp.

PM sent. 

 

Did you try scraping it a razor and wiping it down with acetone? 

I tried a razor blade but abladi got maybe a 12"×6" area done in 45 minutes of scraping. I know someone who can maybe help me though!

I attached some pictures of the area I “fixed” and what it looked like before I started sanding.

Forgot to include the picture of what I fixed.

 

The resin sat too long, ate through the tape glue…and failed.  You also put too much resin on the pinline.  Keys for success: less resin, more pigment, more catalist, good solvent resistant tape, put the pins on with a little disposable art paint brush, put it on fast then go back around and smooth out…walk away… so we got that part out of the way…

Bloody hell…even the good areas look like crap!  Next time make sure you are using solvent resistant tape and kick the pinlines off real hot…you didn’t kick it hot enough.  It should only take about 5-6 mins to start to kick.   The longer the tape and resin have a chance to sit together, the more of a chance it will melt the glue on the tape…and fail, bleed etc.  Pull the tape only when it gets to the consistency of peanut butter.

Sand it down, acetone it down…get it clean and start over.

What a mess.

Did I mention what a mess that is.

Advertise it to hipsters , and stand back when the stampede begins !

My formula.

Use good tape.

Press it down well.

Press it down well.

Press it again.

Use old resin, or whats been left over in the tub.

It is thick because the Styrene has evaporated.

Couple drops of Surfacing Agent.

Pigment.

Couplr drops of cobalt.

Mix well.

Catylize.

Brush quickly all the way around.

One pass all the way around.

Walk away.

It should kick in 5 min. max.

Let harden until resin can be broken.

Pull tape.

Any bleeds, wrap some 150 around a razor blade.

Lay flat and sand sides of pinline. (Thanks to Jim Phillips for that tip).

Block the top when fully dry.

Gloss as usual.

Works for me.

One color resin pinlines are for rookies.

Brown resin pinline.

Pinlines are gone!

Took it to another swaylockian who tremendously helped.

Took a sander to it and some acetone and the lines are gone.

Going to do a cheater coat, then a hotcoat, then a coat of paint and a clear coat on top of that.

I’ll keep all of you updated on my SBC thread.

Holy f’n batpoop, not only did it bleed, but from the extreme shine, the wax didn’t rise, or you used lam resin, like Barry said, I always add a few drops of wax, a lot of pigment in the mix retards the wax rising, plus the amount of resin is far too thick, needed to be brushed to the point of being able to see the edges of the tape.

I give suspect gloss color the finger nail test, if you can scrape any under your nail, it’s gonna bite you, in that case, clean the edges, retape a micron outside of the original lines and shoot a clear gloss over that, being taped real close there is not room for the resin to flow and carry the pigmented, uncured first line with it, been there too, no fun getting bit on the ass real hard.

Make sure you laet those pinlines cure for a day or two before you clear over it. it will bleed if you dont. i learned this lesson the hard way !