'Fakewire' no.1, or asymmetric compsand build.

I thought that after about 150 pu/pe boards, it was time to try a compsand… i have a favourite asymmetric that i would base it on, so i could compare the performance and weight etc, it is a 5’11" toe side, 5’9"heel side x22", low rocker, mini simmons inspired, and works in a surprising range of waves.

   

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I don’t have a vacuum bag, and really couldn’t be bothered to make one, so would have to find another way… My materials would be cheapo builders polystyrene, as light as possible, and free, 4mm poplar plywood, (would have preferred 3mm, but couldn’t get it locally) for £6 an 8’x4’ sheet (water damaged), obeche and cedar rails, and paulownia nose and tail blocks (scrap from other projects)…IMG_1508.JPG

first, i cut out profile sections from the 6" poly, then glued them together using gorilla glue (expanding pu), using anything heavy i could find to hold them firmly in contact, hence car batteries, paint tins etc.   

IMG_1509.JPGThe ‘blank’ looked a mess, but the challenge was on…IMG_1510.JPG  After roughly leveling the bottom using surform and disc sander, i templated the blank, and trued up the edges, allowing for the thickness of the wooden rails.   I made a rocker table, on reinforced 18mm ply, and scrap timber, placed 1/2 a sheet of ply on it, spread over gorilla glue, dampened the bottom of the blank, and put it on the ply… a 110a truck battery held the blank in place, and curved the ply to the desired rocker… more batteries and weights made sure…IMG_1617.JPG   The obeche and cedar (6" planks) were cut into 4mm rail pieces, and rocker cut into them using the edge of the rocker table as a guide, I glued on strips of obeche on the nose and tail,which would later hold the nose and tail blocks and 1 pice of the obeche  on either side of the blank,and clamped to the plywood bottom… IMG_1624.JPG                                            The ply bottom was now cut to the internal rail timber, .IMG_1620.JPG The deck was now domed and shaped, along with the internal rails, and the deck glued on, again using car batteries and clamps…now looking a bit more board-like.IMG_1638.JPG                                                                                  The external rails are where i thought i would struggle, and sure enough, i did, I had decided to use a resin based wood glue to attach them together, and clamp across the board… mistake… the clamps kept slipping, and when eventually stable, the glue failed to go off, in 8 degree temps…IMG_1651.JPG I decided to rip them off, and use gorilla glue, and a different clamping method… I screwed blocks of wood to the extended planks of the rocker table, and wedged the rails to the board with wooden wedges. This way, i could do all 3 rail pieces at the same time…easyIMG_1653.JPG          Did the same with the other side, glued on the nose and tail blocks in the same way, and shaped the rails, using a combinarion of planer, disc sander, and sanding block. 

  The nose and tail ended up thicker than i wanted, as were the rails (but not too badly) and the board felt as if it would be heavy, but not overly so. I decided to go with some glass on fins i had made a while ago, which look badly foiled, but in reality, it is just the dodgy lay-up…time for a break, and send the board to homeblown uk for a single 4oz bottom, glassless resined deck, and fins…IMG_1753.JPG   

I now have the board back, it feels a bit heavier than a glossed board, but i got it in the water today in overhead, slightly lumpy righthanders, (backhand) and it is fast, turns really well, and doesn’t feel at all heavy to surf, i went left too, and once again , it was really smooth and loose… i like it! hopefully it will be nearly bomb proof, but time will tellIMG_1814.jpgIMG_1811.jpgIMG_1813.jpg    I intend to make a mid length in the same way, and surf these boards to destruction, it is a more long winded method of making my boards, but particularly satisfying…














Considering what you are working with there I gotta say Well Done. 

 I’ve been thinking about a similar project myself.

Shows what can be done with a little creative thinking and determination. 

Ya gotta love it when a plan comes together like that.  I’m curious though - why glass on bottom but not on deck? 

Nice work.  Shop looks cold.  Love that asymm.

all the best

Epic.

very cool!

Good thread - like your don’t over think it just go for it attitude.

I realised it was getting heavy, but felt that the rails needed re-inforcement.  As i was going with glass ons, needed glass under the fins, so put a single layer on the bottom, with lap up onto the deck, and then hotcoated and laquered the whole board… if it falls apart, i will glass the whole thing next time

inspiring work Jonty

Top work, good on you. This is a similar approach to a board im working on made up of spare building materials I had around. However mine is my first ever board so will certainly not turn out as well as yours i imagine.

Could i ask about glueing on the ply deck and bottom? Is the bottom is dead flat? If not how did you get the  concave in it with 4mm ply?

Likewise the deck, when you say you domed the deck and internal rail and then glued on the ply deck skin did it take the compound curve of deck dome and board rocker ok?

 

Thanks for sharing!

the 4mm ply was flexible enough to bend to the deck curves, and on the bottom, i wanted a bit of v in the tail, as my experience of wide tails ( and various advice on sways), means that it loosens them up a lot…On the bottom, i used my circular saw to cut a groove part way through the ply, on the inside, from the tail to about a foot up, then when i was glueing the bottom to the foam, i put wedges underneath the ply (on the rocker table) probably about 6" up…this forced the bottom, and blank into a v (actually ended up more of a rolled v, but still loosens it up a lot) it may be more complicated to do a double concave, but worth a try.   On the deck, i put all the weights on the centre line before clamping the rails, it worked well!   I am trying a mid length with the scrap 2mm ply that comes on top of pallets of ply (and is free) but i think that the blank will have to be shaped better, as it is more flexible, and will not even out the shaping imperfections like the 4mm does… but then again double concaves may be easier, even a bonzer…Good luck with yours, it is fun to do…

Cool thanks for the info. Yea i have some of the ply cover sheets you mentioned that i got for free and am using an old sheet of kingspan/celotex i had lying around as the blank. Just got to finish the list of ‘real’ jobs before starting into the fun project.

No doubt i will be back…

Love it.
Just to clarify, you shaped, but got homeblown to do just the glassing?

Thanks, jago25_98, yes, i can’t do epoxy glassing in my workspace, as i have no control over the temperature, so Badger at Homeblown glassed, sanded, put the fins on, and lacquered it for me. excellent job!

Nice build. Update once in the water. 

Awesome build, was looking messy but came out beautifully! I love the mid build picnic.

I have now used the board a few times, and it seems really loose and fast, but difficult to actually try anything with much conviction over the uk summer…just too crowded, but will use it more as the water cools, and the tourists disperse…I also have no.2 at Homeblown for glassing, (a mid length twingle with sidebites), so once they get their flood damage sorted out, there will be a ride report on that too.