…kinda off topic , I guess ,
but does anyone have a favourite story / character at their break ?
you don’t have to name the break , or the person ,
I just like how certain lunatic fringers are in surfing , keeps it interesting .
At my local , there was for many years a BIG [as in super fat] guy , I shall call him ‘doughboy’ …
he was “allergic to rubber” , [or so he said ]! , so his pre-winter warm up , in his boardshorts , consisted of …
ciggie in one hand , bottle of scotch in the other . [he would bury them both in the sand when he surfed , but come out from time to time to imbibe some more.]
Thing is ,
the guy RIPPED , on a normal thruster [6’2 x 18 1/2 x 2 3/8" ] !
Another [ I shall call him “Fin” ], likes paddling out on his finless longboard , on his BACK . Yep , you read that right .
With his feet on the nose of the board .
When I asked him “why ?!” ( In between scribblings in his ever-present note book ) he informed me “I like to see the wave coming”
tra la la la la
…surfers …what an INTERESTING world we live in , eh ?
ben