favourite "out there" locals ?

…kinda off topic , I guess ,

but does anyone have a favourite story / character at their break ?

you don’t have to name the break , or the person ,

I just like how certain lunatic fringers are in surfing , keeps it interesting .

At my local , there was for many years a BIG [as in super fat] guy , I shall call him ‘doughboy’ …

he was “allergic to rubber” , [or so he said ]! , so his pre-winter warm up , in his boardshorts , consisted of …

ciggie in one hand , bottle of scotch in the other . [he would bury them both in the sand when he surfed , but come out from time to time to imbibe some more.]

Thing is ,

the guy RIPPED , on a normal thruster [6’2 x 18 1/2 x 2 3/8" ] !

Another [ I shall call him “Fin” ], likes paddling out on his finless longboard , on his BACK . Yep , you read that right .

With his feet on the nose of the board .

When I asked him “why ?!” ( In between scribblings in his ever-present note book ) he informed me “I like to see the wave coming”

tra la la la la

…surfers …what an INTERESTING world we live in , eh ?


Heh. Don’t know about other people, but I’m getting worried about myself. Last night I was out surfing windslop and a fish (not small) bit me on the ass, much to my suprize.

I actually said “What the fuck was that” and jumped out of my skin. Everyone stared at me for a good while after that.

just go with it …

but maybe you’ll have to go easy on putting sardines in the backpocket of your boardshorts ?

… I wonder if you need tetanus / rabies shots for fish bites on the arse , nowadays ?

ben , just your average and very normal wozzie


At my local , there was for many years a BIG [as in super fat] guy , I shall call him ‘doughboy’ …

he was “allergic to rubber” , [or so he said ]! ,

I used to see a guy in the Ventura area who was pretty big…never wore a wetsuit…surfed year round…he and his wife would show up on weekends in an economy car…it was after longboards went away…he always surfed on a windsurfer…probably one of the original Windsurfers…stayed high and dry and rode it well, not that there was an established criteria for that. It never seemed like he was “out there” to me though - just doing what he had to do to surf the way he wanted to.

Two weeks ago on dawn patrol I saw a guy pulling his board off the roof wearing slacks, long sleeve shirt, and tie. I only did one double-take. However, three minutes later I saw the same guy knee paddling out still wearing the same formal wear. What!!“” We all watched the guy catch his first wave: He went left, did a 180 right, stalled, went right up to the nose, and screamed along with both toes over for what seemed like a full minute…hair, dress shirt and tie nice and dry. That’s out there! Another guy enjoying the ride!



I just like how certain lunatic fringers are in surfing , keeps it interesting .

besides you and me?

hell, that’s the fun of it all. We get to play -


There’s a man known as Roy Stewart out there somewhere in New Zed. He wears orange wetsuits and surfs giant homemade wooden boards. I think that he’s the way out there local on swaylocks and there’s nothing wrong with that at all.

I had a baby seal come up and sit right on the tail of my longboard at 8th street in Del Mar (north county San Diego) about 10 yrs ago. At first i thought it was one of my buddies messing with me, then i turned around. As i did, he was doing his pose (chest out, looking straight up). Cutest little guy. I didn’t know what to do though. I couldn’t shoo him off, something like that doesn’t happen everyday. So i said, “fuck it, i’ll try to pet him”. Ha ha…right when i stuck my hand slowly towards him he snapped at me and i shit my wetty. Then he took off. I hate getting harrassed by locals.

there’s this guy at l****** ****** that paddles out on this 9’6" longboard, and makes night of the living dead zombie noises, especially this one that sounds like a zombie trying to drop a load off on the toilet when he’s paddling for a wave.

There’s this asian guy (deeply tanned for an asian guy who rides a red fish. He hangs with a crew, a guy with 50’s pompadour hair cut and elvis sideburns, a chick with this brazil flag yellow and green Xanadu surftech with a moon crescent tail. She keeps looking at me maybe cuz i can find the shifty peaks . . .

But the Zombie guy is funny. He helps me out because sometimes I can hear his zombie yell. Like an early detection system / early warning system set up.

not really “out there” , but your story just reminded me of ‘ZZ’ , a guy Pascal and I surf with regularly …yep , you guessed what bunch of old rockers THIS guy resembles !

His 8’6 longboard is so old , it has concaves and vee in the bottom , AND the deck .

He is a pretty cool guy , though , and the funniest thing is … for a big guy , he actually has a squeaky , high pitched voice … yep , a voice a bit like that "Dreaderick Tatum " character in “The Simpsons” ?!


Probably one of my favorite things I’ve seen in the lineup lately was over Christmas holidays, when our normally quiet, mellow lineups get invaded by the once-a-year surfer hordes from all points inland…one day with about 40 guys out at a well-known reefbreak, a local mate of mine, a super nice, mellow, one-eyed, big-wave-charging, rugby-playing, South Island Judo Championship-holding Maori decided to protest by paddling out stark naked and dominating the peak, going both ways, and scaring off the hordes with his fierce bottom turns and arse-exposing backside cutties, classic!

photo please …

or maybe not? …although I am sure “rubberlove” would enjoy it , perhaps , if you would …

Makes me proud to be a kiwi yet again! Sometime ago pre-gentrification of the Venice area, I surfed a lot with a gent who was heavily tattooed (even compared to the rest of us who are well marked) with ‘CRIPS’ across the front of his throat, and a few other tacks that indicated his ‘affiliations’ . Not a particularly big guy, but plenty intimidating in his own quiet way and had a way of getting the waves he wanted. One hot summers day, an older guy on a 8ft or thereabouts mal paddles out in a springsuit, booties, cap and paddle gloves. He mad dogs the pack for a minute or two and proceeds to start taking off on any wave he could. Not a great surfer but he was just so wacky no-one even thought to get in his way, and he really didn’t drop in on anyone (well, not too often) and had a hell of session, then went away! The guy was a genius.

…I thought the punchline was going to be …

…“until ‘CRIPS’ paddled over to him …”

Nope, booties, paddle gloves and attitude overwhelmed all hoodlum attitudes. Only time I’d ever seen Jessie NOT step up and be alpha local, but I’m not sure that I’d be willing to try that outfit on any heavy locals myself…

One of the most memorable “locals” for me was a guy named Bosco. Growing up as a kid surfing Bowls left everyone there KNEW that he owned that inside section and would drop in on ANYONE and laugh. Whenever you went left and saw him on that inside section you knew just to kick out…

There’s one long-time local that comes to mind. This guy surfs at the “Point” in Ventura and is generally known as “Caveman”. The guy’s a real character and loves doing multiple 360 slides on his shortboard. The board only has 2 or 3 very small trailer fins and a few deep channels in the tail. He wears one of those circus whistles around his neck that vaguely sounds like a fire engine horn, and when he takes off, he’ll blow it repeatedly. He’s a total crack-up to watch and even funnier to listen to when he tells his stories. Scare’s the hell out of the tourists!

I surf with Dale Webster about once every month or 6 weeks. Known him since I was a kid.


Most of us might have a bad session or a bad couple waves every now & then - distracted by something at work, or some random body ache affecting our balance…Dale has bad years. A common converation among those of us who know him is like, “Man Dale’s sure been grumpy this year.” “Yep, but remember in the winter of '03? He was surfing really good, man, and giving waves away…” “Yeah, but then the city proposed that sewage outfall offshore and he went all surly again…”

He’s cool, though. Doesn’t like brightlighters much, but if he thinks you like redwood trees, you’re just fine with him.

How about Creature. The only place I ever saw him surf was the “Jetty.” He’d drop in and squat over his rear leg with the front leg straight out. Kind of like a cheater 5 only over the middle of his board. Same stance over and over. Never changed with a big goofy grin. Too bad he liked the nose powder so much. Mike

Knew too many stories like that one. If anyone remembers Pat Orr (Ambrose?) - he’s, along with Odd Todd & Big Chuck, probably the finest surfer to ever come out of Bolinas - Pat is in the hospital and his family could use a little help. There’s a fund. He’s around 75 lb now. PM me if you need contact info…