Gerry and occy, I have a lot to say on the guys who didn't make my #1, mainly pre, go for it boys, sorry have to go now, H.
Thanks llilibel03 I will.
On a west swell, it is down right puckering.
I did not complete my thought on that day:
I had my stomach in my mouth making it hard to swallow.
To give the size of the waves that day a number value is meaningless.
PETER WAS NOT SCARED?
I WAS!
I feel safer surfing Pipe.**
**
I wrote last night and it crashed, try again, I'm thinking there should be 4 eras, [just modern], 60's 70's and up to Simon's blitz in 81', after that, maybe up to 95' then up to now,[no rules] ok so I'm going Nat, Gerry, Dane, Occ/Tommy and now I get lost, Kelly has been the best competetive surfer ever and always a joy to watch, he's had one mention so far and not as a favourite, which leads to the question, are the surfers styles too similar because of the boards their riding? The surfing now is mind boggling, no doubt. In the mid to late 70's, including 80' and 81', when you turned up to a contest there were 96 guys in the trials and their were 96 different styles of boards and guys surfing [well almost], then the thruster. Some guys shone all the time and some in different conditions. I like Rob Machado's surfing but he's hardly current, guess I'll go with Parko and Mick, I am interested in your thoughts, cheers H.
I sat down and watched the 2010 J bay contest on the sports channel yesterday afternoon.
The surfing was so similar by the participants it was difficult to tell who was who.
Luckily they put their names up on the screen.
The waves were good, the surfing monotonous in it’s mechanility.
I dozed off several times.
As the contest went on the waves got smaller and the air attempts became more frequent in an attempt by the surfers to score more points in the mediocre conditions.
the transition is almost complete
from participant sport
to spectator sport.
the necessary component
is a common body of agreed
historical photo journalism.
there was a moment
in time where the act
of surfing was
the reward and sum
total benefit ,to baseball,
curling , and tennis
for the admiring onlookers.
the obscure act of ridin’
waves has now matured
so that the porch of the
general surfing merchandise store
is furnished with rocking chairs
to laud the merits
of favorite luminaries.
isn't life grand in
it's cycling...now let's talkof the tour de france…
Was
(Mose Allison) When I become was and we become were Will there be any sign or a traceWhen am turns to was and now is back when
Will someone have moments like this
Moments of unspoken bliss
And will there be heroes and saints
Or just a dark new age of complaints
When I become was and we become were
Will there be any Susans and Raffs
Lookin’ at old photographs
And wondering aloud to a friend
what was it like to be then?
I was there
it was just hell.
How about pre/dawn surfer who still can kill it out in the linup? I know there is tons but the two I have seen in the last year our Lopez and Carrol.
Marcus Adoody, Lennox Lad.
Not a pro but still could smoke anyone. I remember one session at Nth wall Ballina, it was some of the best surfing I had ever seen.
Pro, Luke Egan!
I remember Marcus, Luke is around the same age as you, old guys and new guys grommet, H.
buttons and probably occy
no no no. lukes got a few years on me. ha ha ha.
…Yeah Buttons-Freak Of Freaks! hows thoses switch stance mid reo things he used to do, and the side slips and stuff.
come on boys, you are too close, wait till they pull out Phil Edwards and Brett Simpson, hey full respect to those guys, I said Gerry and Occy, not fair if you go inside, righto I'll throw a stick in the wheels, Ian Cairns, just loved his top turn , the best, I practised it, got ok at it, got to know him, they started the bronzed Aussies, didn't go their way, and as if Australians are going to take to blokes in pink jump suits for any reason, got the shits , with PT. moved to the states and started coaching the Americans to beat us. I saw him on tv today and its been a while since he did a Cairnsy snap, boasting how he coached the guys, his guys, HELLO MATE, you are an Aussie and you can't be my old guy, ok , so that's something to start with, luv ya's H.
As a teenager, we loved the "Free Ride" guys, especially MR. That smaller wave roundpin he had just before the twin fin broke out was the shit! However, Buttons, Liddell, Dane, and of course, Bertelmann, all killed it on some pretty cool single fin variations.
Too many thruster riders now to have a favorite, but Tom Carroll sure turned on when the thruster first came out. I remember a shot of him in one of the surf rags cranking a snap with everything out of the water but the trailing fin and the tip of the tail. Like to see that one again.
1 Me
2 Me
Actually, my favorite surfer is the guy who stays home when it’s good.
Lopez and Machado. I guess I like the ‘style’ guys. Mike
Martin Potter. When I first started surfing he was slashing and bashing everything in sight. Curren for smoothness, Lopez for cool style, and Slater for sheer talent.
Shaun Tomson is right up there. He had that classic fluid style and made it all look easy. Jerry Lopez would have to be the pre thruster modern short board master. Tom Curren another classic surfer that showed the rest of us what was possible with a thruster.
Lopez, Greenough and Dora…
and the best of the best: dolphins
You didn’t specify they had to be humans…
Also Mike Stewart.
snodgrass
wish I could post that picture…
and the
possum yard kid,
http://yardpossum.blogspot.com/
the most important part of this favorite thing
Is that I have never seen or know these
people beyond Images I have seen
in print or on screen…thet said I can
freely fantasize about their atributes
,what I have gleened otherwise from
rumor and conversation with impunity.
…ambrose…