I’m thinking about how to set my twinzer canard using standard FCS plugs. One problem I’ve had when using FCS plugs with high cant angles (twinzer canards at 10 degrees) is that tipping the plug over you end up losing a lot of thread. Sometimes I find there is just a sliver of plastic. Never mind that the plug is off center. Never mind that it doesn’t line up with my shaper’s marks. Notice instead how little plastic there is between the inside face of the fin and the grub screw hole-
So I was wondering, what if I put the grub screw on the outside, towards the rail what would happen? Anybody try this?
Can’t get the photo to load…just the link. What am I doing wrong?
I am about to glass a twinzer with 2* on the mains and 6* on the canards using Gearboxes. And I figure I can use Greg’s method to adjust from there. Going through that ERBB thread, 2 and 6 seems to be what folks like best. And they also mentioned that a lot of pro builders are using close to those numbers too.
Hey Chris. My daily driver twinzer is canted at 4 and 10 and it works really good, so I kind of want to stick with what works (for me). I played around with canting the plug with the grub screw on the wrong side and it’s too extreme. The bottom of the inside of the plug raises up almost a 1/4". I also discovered that FCS center plugs are identical and have the can’t anthem but I guess since you put one facing left and one right they cancel each other.
I’m actually going to use my Griffin five fin set with the twinzer. I compared them to my twiner’s bamboo and they are very similar except the Griffin rear (soon to be canard) is about 1/4 deeper and maybe 1/8 longer base.
Somebody on the ERBB had mentioned using a fusion box cut in half. You could use a 9* fusion (whole or half) box and the Griffin tape method to get the extra cant that you need.
That’s good to know about the canards sizing. I plan to make some new fins for this twinzer I also need to replace some of my GG5 fins after dinging them on the reef.
