Felipe Pomar & surfing tsunami waves

They say it can't be done. 

Felipe Pomar has an article in TSJ where he claims he did. 

Its a great story, well told, just hair-raising.  Couldn't put it down.  The part about him and his friend paddling toward shore as fast as they could, only to watch the shoreline shrinking off into the distance, wow.

Anyone else read it yet?

I have felt the tremors while waiting for waves several times. Happens more often here in Japan than any other place I’ve been. I keep my eyes on the waterline near shore and usually head for the beach if it feels like it’s time. I read that article and was amazed also. Specific location and conditions would determine survival rates if a big one happened here. If I had my longboard I might just paddle as close to the river mouth as possible then try to ride the big one in and up river till I could somewhat safely crash land. The beach would be an abrupt crash on sand dunes then into a forest. Would try to avoid those tree trunks and branches if possible. That dude was lucky huh?

home break

You can see the edge of the forest in the left. In the middle near the wind generator (NE) there is a wide mouthed river (the dragon). Probably would try to avoid this tube.

the tube

I really enjoyed this text. It tells us of our own vulnerability and of the ocean's unlimited powers of expression:  being capable of both indescribable subtlety and overwhelming power. His witnessing of the periodic structural ordering and disordering of the sea and earth was amazing, a form of terrestial and oceanic nervous breakdown. He tells us of ' a planetary episode' that changed his relationship with nature... And testifies to his unconditional love of the ocean.

 

 

 

 

    Howzit Huck This not the first time I have heard this story and Felipe did it. I rad the story a few years ago and what a story it is. Talk about a legend.Aloha,Kokua