just wanted to start a post for people using Fiberglass Hawaii’s 2 to 1 Clear Epoxy to share thoughts, tips, likes dislikes etc about the product over wood, clark foam, or what ever. i have used it on a number of boards now and have been really pleased with how it is working and how the boards are coming out.
i have been measuring it out 2 to 1 by volume but just bought a small digital scale to do it by weight. i guess weight is much more accurate and produces a better product (100 to 44).
i have been doing most of my glassing at night at around 80 degrees and found the pot life to be around 8mins so you have to get it out onto the board fast. when it is hotter i have been putting the Resin part into the fridge for a few hours. this seems to really extend the pot life (good idea? bad idea?) i have been using a 4" 1/8 nap mohair roller to spread it out and wet out the rails… i have been finishing off my boards with system 3 lpu (one of my favorite finishes for kitchen cabinets and other wood projects) followed by a nice coat of car wax (applied after several days of cureing)…
anyone used pigment with the resin? done a epoxy pigment pinline? polished it out for a gloss coat? got any good tricks or tips, do’s or don’ts…
If the densities of the two fluids (“resin” and “hardener”) differ, your measurement by weight method might be less accurate… I believe epoxies are usually formulated to be mixed by volume.
Haven’t tried the stuff, I suspect that the correct ratio is like the original poster said - 2:1 by volume or 100:44 by mass. In fact the mass ratio is more likely to be the most accurate, the volume ratio is given most often because it is just easier for most users to measure.
With other resin/hardner formularions I have gotten good results in hot weather by putting the mixing cup inside of another cup half full of ice to help suck the heat out as the resin reacts. A slower resin/hardner combination will probably end up stronger and give better results though.
If the densities of the two fluids (“resin” and “hardener”) differ, your measurement by weight method might be less accurate… I believe epoxies are usually formulated to be mixed by volume.
I agree with this. The hardener is denser at room temperature. Measure by weight and you won’t get enough for a good mixture.
First rule in using all surfboard epoxy resins - Follow manufacturer’s recommendations. Weight or volume measurement is OK, as long as you are accurate.
Second rule, and one not often discussed - mix thoroughly. Epoxy resin is unlike styrene resin, it must be mixed thoroughly or it can take weeks to cure fully. Epoxy is not a catalyst system. I mix at least 3 minutes per 12-15 oz., using a wood paddle in a figure 8 pattern, scraping the sides of the container every 20 - 30 seconds.
Third rule - Take it easy putting in on. Spread it gently, give it time to saturate and finish gently, be sweet. You don’t have to be vigorous like styrene resins.
How many boards can you laminate with a gallon of resin?
How many angels dance in your leash cup?
Depends on the size of the board, number and weight of glass and how skilled you are in hand laminating. Glassing a 6’ 6 " fish with 2 - 4’s on the bottom, and 3 - 4’s on the top, shouldn’t take more than 36 oz. if you’re experienced. Fill coats, less than half of that.
How many boards can you laminate with a gallon of resin?
How many angels dance in your leash cup?
Depends on the size of the board, number and weight of glass and how skilled you are in hand laminating. Glassing a 6’ 6 " fish with 2 - 4’s on the bottom, and 3 - 4’s on the top, shouldn’t take more than 36 oz. if you’re experienced. Fill coats, less than half of that.
Go to the Fiberglass Hawaii web site for pricing.
Just trying to get a comparison of FH resin vs. RR resin. I get a longboard and a shortboard with enough to laminate another side of a shortboard and thats with the 1.5 gal set of RR epoxy. Id have more leftover if i was a little more conservative with the resin.
All the surfboard epoxy ( and aircraft epoxy, for that matter ) I have tested, wet - out the same. Even different viscosities don’t have any effect on coverage, if you use the proper technique. I’ve tested the RR, FH and SurfSource epoxy and they are all great products, and they all cover the same.
Another advantage of using epoxy, is you can mix another batch if you didn’t mix enough the first time, and add it to the lamination you’re working on. This allows you to train yourself to use only the amount needed and keep all that wasted resin off the floor.
All the surfboard epoxy ( and aircraft epoxy, for that matter ) I have tested, wet - out the same. Even different viscosities don’t have any effect on coverage, if you use the proper technique. I’ve tested the RR, FH and SurfSource epoxy and they are all great products, and they all cover the same.
Another advantage of using epoxy, is you can mix another batch if you didn’t mix enough the first time, and add it to the lamination you’re working on. This allows you to train yourself to use only the amount needed and keep all that wasted resin off the floor.
How about yellowing? I know some epoxy yellow quite a bit in sunlight vs. Polyester
The SS and RR are the only ones I have long term experience with. They have excellent UV protection. My guess is that the newcomer FH probably has the same UV inhibitors, I just had a board glassed with it and I’ll find out.
Much of what is called resin yellowing is actually the yellowing of poly urethane foam underneath. Epoxy over expanded poly styrene foam gives a brilliant white board that says white for years. Of course, anybody who loves their board keeps it out of the sun as much as possible. Ultra Violet radiation is a bit of the " Ultra Violence " on all plastics.