So...I mixed up my batch of fill coat and then realized I was out of brushes. I though there were some people that liked to use a plastic spreader for applying an epoxy fill coat. I had no brush, but had a spreader handy. I was surprised how well it worked. It seems that the epoxy lays out smoother with a thinner coat. Also, I used about 2oz less resin per side on an 8' board.
NIce. Paint or resin pinline? Looks very flat.
That is epoxy! Amazing.
Actually it’s automotive pinstripe. I did a cut lap on the bottom lam and used a roller to press it into the foam. Then covered the cut line with the pinstipe tape and lam’d the deck. Now no worries of hitting the stripe when sanding the deck.
I couldn’t get this through to my glosser seveal years ago when I was trying to get epoxy glosses, instead of a poly over, he glossed them like it was poly, way too much resin. When I was making the solid wood fins for the “Surfing through Time” movie, I didn’t want to fiberglass a fin for a varnish finish board, instead, I brushed a coat of RR as thin as I could drag the resin, more like stain, it laid out mirror flat.
I alway squeegee out my hotcoats first with the body putty sqeegee, then walk 'em out with a 3" brush, my 2 new boards will be finished like this
Jmoto, I used to sell John Arnold’s Wayne Lynch boards at my shop in Rhode Island, the deck pin was a form of tape laid right next to the cutline under the top lamination, so it didn’t “cover” the cutline, but still was on straight, good enough.
Did you sand it yet? I’d be curious to see if you have a burn-through situation with such a thin fill coat…
Looks really nice!
I heard someone else say that they used a bondo spreader and would cut the edge with a pair of “Pinking” shears, I think they were speaking of doing this with both poly and epoxy. I might try it…getting sick of pulling brush hairs out of my hotcoats and gloss coats.
Like your pinline too, that’s the process I use with tape or with posca…extra work but beats sanding through it for sure.
Yater's crew went thru a phase in which they squeegied the hotcoat onto the deck and left it. It seems to me that Epoxy loves those yellow plastic squeegies. I've heard of others using automotive pinline tape. Good example. Nicely done.
Thanks all for the feedback.
I had tried this once before with a different spreader, but it was too stiff
and just plowed the resin and left heavy marks in the resin. It seems that it’s
the 6” school bus yellow color spreaders that do the trick. They have just enough flex to allow you to
feather the edges on overlapping passes and you can bend them a bit to work the
rails.
Jamie, I haven’t sanded it yet, but I should get to it tomorrow night. It is pretty clean, so it shouldn’t need much. It just has a few dust marks and a tape line. Also when I did the bottom hot coat, I coated it almost to the cut lap on the deck. When using the spreader, you can get it thin enough that it won’t drip upside down.
Then I lightly blocked the tape line with 80 and then fill coated the deck the
same way, so the rails have a double coat for sanding. This may not be the
fastest way to do a board, but so far I have only a couple minutes worth of block
sanding time on the board and it’s almost done.
Cool. Keep us posted on the sanding results. The reason I brought this up is that I recently completed my 20th epoxy glass job, and I finally nailed it with zero burn throughs. Good prep work (clean lamination, lap sanding, etc.) was important, but for the first time I used a bit MORE epoxy for the hot coat (like about 9 oz mixed material for a 6’ board) and the hot coat turned out perfectly. No burnthroughs in the usual trouble spots (rails, around fin boxes, etc) and sanding was a pleasure (100, 150, 220, 320). Board turned out plenty light as well. So that’s why I’m curious if you can finish with a clean sanding on such a thin fill coat…
I like to use yellow foam rollers cut in half lengthwise. Use just like a squeege. Much better than any brush. Leaves just the right amount of epoxy behind. [img_assist|nid=1064589|title=epoxy fill coat|desc=|link=none|align=left|width=100|height=75]I use 1 to push the epoxy around. Chuck it and use a fresh 1 to even things up. Bondo squeeges are ok. But I tend to get it two thin in places like the rails. And why do my pics always post so small.
Thanks for the thread.
The Low Tech Lab has been working on the "no sand epoxy gloss" for quite a while with mixed results. We're going to test out some of your stuff...Thanks, I can see what you guys are talking about...and where it's going...good stuff
just an update... I decided to sand it today with 80 and do the gloss coat with a squeegee to see how it would work.
Jamie, I
did hit the glass in a couple of spots near the nose. Nothing too
bad, 2 spots about the size of a quarter and not deep. They
disappeared in the gloss. If I wasn’t going to gloss, I would have
started with 150 and would have done more by hand. Definitely have to
be more careful with the thin fill coat.
I need to do some more block work next time to get rid of those waves in the reflection. There is still some light dust in it, but no fish eyes or brush marks. I should only need to hit it with some 2k and maybe a trizact pad, then polish. Also, I only used 4oz of epoxy.
dontask, When you instert a picture, you need to select preview instead of thumbnail from the drop down list to make them show up full size.
[img_assist|nid=1064614|title=Gloss2|desc=|link=none|align=left|width=640|height=480]
[img_assist|nid=1064613|title=Gloss1|desc=|link=none|align=left|width=640|height=480]
jmoto , good looking gloss !!!
So...you glass somewhere between the TV and the Stereo? Where do you sand? Is this photo wet resin? Do you have a photo of the gloss surfboard 8 hours after cure but before sanding or buffing? Good close ups.
I hope what you are doing is real....but I've been fooled before and I know all about photo trickery...and I have a few tricks.. .....but never a fully cured epoxy gloss coat like your photo! without buffing. Awesome!
Please update your user profile to include location. Please let the world know what Epoxy Resin you are using.
and please be a good person and tell the truth.................Ray...........
...unbuffed epoxy resin....don't look too close....
Ray, I thought I would bring this inside in the spare room and try to avoid the dust. The kitchen was dusty from all the sanding ;)
Here are some more pics after it is fully set. The pictures last night were when it was a little tacky. Not much different. You can see a couple dust marks in the one picture. I did notice some shrinking, so I think I will sand the bottom with 150 before glossing. It's not perfect yet, but I think I'm on the right track. The resin is Green Room.
I'm just a back yard hack in Durham, NC. Trust me, I have nothing to prove here. ...just thought I would share.
Also, how do you get your location to show up. I updated it in my profile, but I doesn't show when I post.
Josh
[img_assist|nid=1064619|title=Gloss3|desc=|link=none|align=left|width=640|height=480]
[img_assist|nid=1064621|title=Gloss5|desc=|link=none|align=left|width=640|height=480]
I would have guessed that your resin was Aerialite epoxy (Green Room ) . I have used that resin on three boards now and I have to say it is the best of the best epoxy resins. Not only that I have used it as a clear casting resin for machine gears . there is not another resin that I have used that even comes close to Aerialite !!! The only issue for me is I have to have it shipped from California but I can deal with that .
WHEN YOU HAVE UPLOADED THE PICTURE
sorry, when you uploaded the picture using the blue camera
once done, you can make a selection where it says THUMBNAIL, click on the arrow and below it you can choose PREVIEW
use that one, and it will show up biggest [depending on how small your image is of course]
more picture more better