Fin foilin - the movie

Burnsie put in a request for a tutorial on fin foiling. This isn’t really it. But, I made a slideshow on my last two fins…shows the basic process.

  1. Cutout planshape

  2. taper the tip thinner than the rest

  3. cut in the rear edge

  4. finish the rear foil

  5. cut in the front edge

  6. finish rounding the front edge by hand

Some pics of the other rail fin are shown too…

Fin is 28 layers 6 oz e glass, with Resin Research epoxy plus Additive F, and a little pigment.

HTH inspire someone to make their own glass fin.

http://www.blakestah.com/surf/finfoilin.mov

The end.

Almost forgot - tools…

1 4.5 inch sander with only high speed

1 soft pad and 80 grit sandpaper

1 piece 60 grit sandpaper for hand sanding

1 bench vise

1 pair goggles

1 pair leather gloves

1 dust mask

1 vacuum cleaner

Keep the sander parallel to the surface, or nearly so.

The black line is max thickness, in this case 20% of the distance from the front edge to the rear edge. I do all fins from 20 to 25%.

THANK YOU! that was very helpful.

what are the performance characteristics/benefits of the orca fin, compared to the standard dolphin like fins? (i tried searching the archive but couldn’t find what i was looking for)

does it work in a thruster setup?

what kind of sander do you use?

thanks again!

Quote:
THANK YOU! that was very helpful.

what are the performance characteristics/benefits of the orca fin? (i tried searching the archive but couldn’t find what i was looking for)

does it work in a thruster setup?

what kind of sander do you use?

thanks again!

This was more of a how-to demo, but the Orca is a basic raked ellipse with a mild cutaway. It works quite well, can be scaled up to whatever depth/rake/chord lengths (or aspect ratio) you like. It was designed to provide the best lift-drag characteristics of a stiff fin - I evolved to that design with my rotating fin system, it beat out fins with longer rakier tips easily.

The Orca does work in a thruster - it is about the same surface area as a G5 - it will certainly be quite usable, if you make one you can judge if it is better or not.

The sander I use is actually a very cheap angle grinder with a soft pad substituted for the grinding wheel. I think it was $30 or so at Home Depot. You could certainly use a bigger sander, but I think smaller is better for fins.

I forgot to mention - nearly all passes with the sander are made parallel to the max thickness line. Kind of a critical point.

thanks blakestah, my summer project if to lay up some fin panels, learn how to foil and make my own custom bases. so if i ever get around to it i will make some orcas!

There’s more to it than the steps I showed, mainly

  1. the layup

  2. the post-foiling casting of the fin tab for cant

  3. the gloss finish

There’s plenty in the archives on 1), plusoneshaper did a little thing on 2) about a month ago, and glossing a fin is just like glossing a board…rough sand first, paint gloss on, sand to fine grit, and polish. The fins will work fine without the gloss, but no one will take your fins seriously without a really good sheen. Also, don’t gloss a flex fin…at least with polyester resin gloss.

Thanks for taking the time to do that.

I just finished glassing a set of a template that you posted last summer. What can I say, I’m slow. Came out pretty well for my first shot at foiling and glassing. I also made a traditional set that I rode today for the first time. I was pretty impressed. Not that they worked extrememly well, just that they felt as good if not better than the original. That and the fact that the fin tabs didn’t break off, I consider it a success. Both sets were wood core with 2 layers of 6 oz. on each side glassed with UV poly resin. Keeping it simple for the first few sets. Laying up panels seems like too much of a pain at this point.

I found that a half round bastard file really helps to get the leading edge shape just right. It’s kinda of hard to do with the sander.

This set is pretty thin overall, I’d guess around 6-7% of chord.

Fin on the right has been glosscoated. One on the left is hotcoated and needs to be sanded and glossed.

Laying up panels - not so bad.

  1. cut glass out for each layer

  2. prepare flat surface, treat it with mold release (car wax) or use wax paper

  3. lay down a few layers at a time (2-3 at first). Lay down layer, roll, wait, roll some more. If necessary after rolling, add resin and squeegee

Takes about 30 minutes to do a shortboard layup, and half a quart of resin. The layers really helps with foiling…

good show man…i’ve been thinking about making fins for about a year now and foiling has been holding me back. I had a eureka moment recently on making pufoam/balsa/CF core fins with CF shell using a molding method…light stiff and buoyant…actually made some progress the last few days…if i dont like the results i’ll go your foilin route…

Those only took 45 minutes for both fins, panel to foiled. A simple foiled fin is not difficult.