Fin foiling

Hi guys, how do u go about foiling a fin?? is there any guidelines or template that can be use?? i wanted to start small by trying to make my own fins 1st before tackling anything bigger. any help is appreciated!!

HOW TO MAKE WOODEN FINS: The plywood fins are about 1" thick at the base…I laminate 1/8" clear Lexan between the plywood with poly-urethane glue…The plywood is either 1/4" or 1/2" baltic birch plywood…The plywood is light and reveals the foil nicely… After the plywood / Lexan sandwich is bonded, I cut out the template of the fin with a pattern cutting router…Then I foil the fin with a 36 grit - 4" disc grinder, then hand sand to 100 grit…The part of the fin that goes in the fin box needs to have some of the wood removed, and replace it with fiberglass…Next, I put 2 layers of 4 oz. fiberglass cloth on the outer sides of the fin…Then, hot coat and final sand with 220 grit…I use a clear gloss spray enamel for the final finish…Make sure you don’t leave any unsealed wood edges, as they will suck water. I use an 8/32 stainless steel screws for pins…I drill a tight pilot hole, screw in the screw, cut off the screw head, and file away any roughness…If the fin is thicker than 3/8", I put the pin at the rear edge of the fin… That’s a simplified description of how I make some of my fins

Is the “baltic” birch the kind with the brown layer on the edge of every ply? I cant find any that has that. If not, what do you specify to the wood shop to get that? Or do you just have a place where you stop by and grab some?

If you’ve got a fin blank for a centre fin, I always found it handy to mark the centre line, the LE right up over and down the TE. This at least keeps your foil reasonably symetrical. The ones with symetrical coloured layups make it easier. As far as the foiling goes, hand or machine foiling a fin is not rocket science, leave that for cnc and moulding, just secure in a vice and try and keep both sides the same. Generally the entry foil is softer and shorter, the trailing foil longer and straighter. Wear breathing and eye protection, long clothes, sleeves taped at the wrist, watch your neck too, and whatever you do DON"T SCRATCH the itchies. Carefully extract yourself from your clothes and take a warm soapy shower. Good luck, have fun, …itch…itch…

Protect ~ eyes (saftey glasses) Protect ~ lungs (particle mask with charcoal filter) Protect ~ head (good tight fitting head gear) Protect ~ body ( Two big plasic trash bags --fiberlass fines wont penetrate this – one with neck and arm holes cut out second one taped to the bottom of the other as an apron.) Protect ~ arms ( saran wrap taped at wrist and upper arm) Rinse hands immediately after foiling session. Wash any place that itches including your bare butt with stiff brush cold water to keep pores closed and GoJo ~ mount your work to the board carefully & go surfin’! Rich

Baltic Birch ply is usually sold at better hardwood lumber yards. If your in the San Diego area Frost Hardwood sells it. It’s void free so you don’t have to contend with the air gaps like the cheap pine ply wood you find at the Home Depot. It’s as dense as hard wood, but stronger. Baltic Birch is usually used in the building of better quality cabinet drawers. It usually comes in 7,9 or 11 layer, and it’s sold by the foot rather than the sheet. -Jay

U guys rock!! Surfs up man… Thanks!!