i’ve looked for my answers extensively in the archives and have come up empty handed. Maybe someone has an idea or two… i’m Looking to get a clear lam around this 28oz carbon weave then a color over the top. My problem is I get everything wet out, free of any discernible bubbles and it looks like I’m good, come back hours later and the glass is totally showing? Not clear anymore but looks crystalline? I have a feeling I just need to use lighter weight glass but damn, building up a 5/8 d-fin takes a ton of 6oz…any thoughts? I didn’t seem to get a photo of the after, I can tomorrow…
I’ve had layers of cloth refuse to go clear on the wet out stage, but never had them go clear then show themselves after the fact.
It is a possibility that the carbon was not wet out fully, and it sucked the fiberglass dry.
It is pretty hard to visually completely wet out carbon fiber, I’ve learned to give it a long time to soak up what it can, then see if it wants any more.
Epoxy???
What brand?
Looks to be a pretty large pool around your layup?
Silmar poly 249, 10oz glass I feel like maybe i’m Kicking it too fast or it’s the shrinkage factor. I’m going to try 6oz and slow it waaaay down
I see several things that are not making the situation any better.
The first is the thickness of the panel, 3/8"', .375 is all you need, the thickness ALL fin companies use.
Secondly, I use 7-1/2 oz. @ 32 layers, 36 layer @ 6oz. and I don’t know of any silene 10oz., you must be using volan, the Volan of today is not the volan of yesteryear.
Polyester has a shrinkage factor of 2%, I can’t explain what happen, but during curing i:e shrinkage the cloth begins to shatter for lack of a better term.
I’ve screwed up until I realize I can’t use volan in fin sheets, I had semi success putting 3 layers dead center, should have used 1 or 2.
Even on 10oz. Glass jobs using multiple layers of volan do this
Your first photo looks like the cloth is really flooded, like resin floating all over the top, almost hotcoat-ish.
How are you pulling it through the 10oz glass?
Squeege?
Resin looks really milky (lots of air).
What happens if you skimcoat what you have in the second photo?
Does it all go away? Or just come back?
How many layers are you glassing at a time?
Thanks a ton Jim. Do you think a faster kick increases the shrink? Could I get away with laming all the six at the same time and having a clear panel over the carbon?
Your first photo looks like the cloth is really flooded, like resin floating all over the top, almost hotcoat-ish.
Covered with Mylar so I can San it before adding another Layer of color.
How are you pulling it through the 10oz glass?
Flood, roller then squeegee.
Squeege?
Resin looks really milky (lots of air).
That’s the color of the hdo i’m Laming on, not over working.
What happens if you skimcoat what you have in the second photo?
it’s all the way through, skincoat won’t fix
Does it all go away? Or just come back?
How many layers are you glassing at a time?
2 layers of ten at a time
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Wet out the carbon first, really drenched it. Let that kick then layered up 6 layers of 4 oz at .75% mek. Gonna throw down 12 more layers of 6oz flip and repeat the process. Foil it then glass it on some big beast of a board
Twice when ordering 7-1/2 oz. I got 6 oz. Warp that somehow had been put in the 7.5 box.
I’ve been laying up fin sheets since 1963, so I’m no rookie, but all the clear sheets were milky and when foiling clear or color, even opaques all the layers were visible when wet out on installation.
It was after taking to Bings glasser that he said when seeing the fins, " Warpglass ".
the next time I bought a roll of 7-1/2 oz. I took a piece of the supposedly 7-1/2 with me, not even close and the problem stopped when I got the correct cloth
Advice to the reader: Jim’s comments above, can be taken to the bank!
