so, my first board I totally shagged up the toe in and basically used a toe in guide for a 6’4 on a 6’1. I used FCS ii boxes, so is it worth mucking around with? Should I rip the boxes out and re set them on the correct toe in? What is the best way to go about this? And is it even worth it? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
The toe in for a 6-4 is different than a 6-1? How much different?
Well it was an 1/8 of an inch toe in, unless I completely mucked up the measurement, but it seems way straighter than other boards of similar size like my 6’0
Correct toe in ? I think you’ll find the board performing better, with what you’ve done. Don’t change a thing.
The term toe in refers to how the outside fins of a thruster point towards the nose area? Is that not correct?
Pay closer attention, the humor is in the use of the term ‘‘correct.’’ There is no such thing as ‘‘correct toe-in.’’ Did you really think I did not know the meaning of toe-in? Really?
The worst part about your “mistake” (in quotes because like Bill mentioned, there is no correct measurement) is that you’ve let it get into your head…
Toe in slightly different than what you had planned and you consider it a failure?
This board is doomed to be a dud. Not because it’s a bad board necessarily but because the builder has it in his head that something so miniscule has ruined it.
In other words, don’t sweat it.
I am in the process of building 2 that I deliberately put 1/8" toe on instead of my previous 1/4"… More drive…
Also, if you are into fin placement, next board, don’t use FCSII. Instead use something adjustable. Gearbox is a fantastic choice and will use off-the-shelf twin-tabbed FCS fins.
You would be amazed at how much you can screw up a board and it still works ok. 
4WFS fin system is a great product. Versatility with ease. Don’t know why more aren’t being used.
Some of my best boards have been the result of what I though at the time was a mistake. In saying that I don’t think your “mistake” is going to make any difference that you’d notice.
No I was checking that I was correct. That’s the problem with Internet forums, stuff gets misconstrued. And there’s always someone out there that knows more than you do and lives to be a keyboard warrior. If you look at my OP, the real question is: Is it worth changing the toe in? I’m guessing probably not. The board does feel a bit too ‘stiff’ for my liking, making me think that the “toe in” was “wrong”. Thanks for all the replies, I think I’ll leave it. Oh and thanks for not ALL being know it all wankers…
If anything just try a couple different sets of fins. In the future use a strait edge going to a fixed point in relation to the nose of the board. Set your rear dot in relation to how far you want to be off the rail then take a strait edge to the nose of the board. Adjust the distance from the stringer based on how tight you want the board to turn an arc.
A simple trick I’ve been dong the past few years is using a simple piece of masking paper as my strait edge. Cut a piece of masking paper a little shorter than the length of the board. Lay the masking paper on the bottom of the board. Align the edge of the sheet of paper to your rear fin dot and the other end to the nose of the board. Smooth out any wrinkles and double check that you are on your rear dot. Now you can make your front dot and connect the dots if you’d like. I’ll often set my toe in to be an inch or some other measurement off of the nose. To do this I simply measure and make a tiny hole in the paper at the nose end with the point of a pencil. That becomes my reference mark to set the distance from the stringer. Then I just align the paper to the rear dot and viola! The reason I poke a tiny hole is because after I do the first side I simply flip the sheet of paper over to mark the second side and it will be spot on every time.
To me attempting to measure and mark a 1/8 or whatever toe in by measuring back at the fins is a recipee for disaster. Aligning both fins to a fixed point in relation to the nose of the board is far more accurate. Also not a fan of the fin markin jigs that are sold by the various board building supplies. Another method that makes for an easy mistake.
Bottom line, when someone picks up a board to check the fin set up they sight from the nose to the tail with their eye centered on the stringer. They want to see both fins toed in the exact same amount in relation to the center line of the board. Align from the nose to the rear fin dot and you will assure yourself success. Good luck.
THIS. Thanks man, that is so damn helpful!
Thats awesome!
Been off Sways for a while, lots of friends going to that big point break in the sky… Here’s
My advice. Don’t use a piece of tape. As I’ve said before (and posted pictures), go to your local home
supply store and buy a piece of 8’ flat aluminum stock. (the thin stuff) Make your back marks and lay the
flat stock on the mark and 2" off the nose of the board, regardless of the length. Measure up
4.5", make your dot. Cut your box on those dots. If the board doesn’t turn as quick to your
liking, move the dot (not the bar stock) 1/16" more inward (towards stringer). If the board seems
to bog, do the opposite. Use good tools, check twice… Just my 2c. Never had a thruster come back
due to fin problems, usually some bro-tool wanting a refund 'cause he snapped it on the sand or in
the pier… lol
Not masking tape my friend…masking paper. It comes on 12" wide rolls. Aluminum flat stock works too. Same concept…every bit as accurate…conforms to the curve and concave of the shaped blank perfectly too.
Keep the fins you have. Take a bit of sandpaper or a file and work on the inside leading edge of each side fin… shoot for an 80/20 or 70/30 leading edge. While you’re at it, try to blunt the leading edge a bit.
These modifications will allow a greater angle of attack and negate any effect of 1/16" difference in toe-in.
If you’re really ambitious, get a 2" grinding disc (Rol-Lok) and grind a bit of concave on the inside face of each side fin.
OK - now you’re up to snuff on the latest concave inner foil/80/20 leading edge fin technology that you’ll find on some of the modern fins of today. It actually makes a difference over the old flat inner surface/single foil (90/0) designs of yesterday.
If you have extra fins and extra time and don’t mind taking chances, maybe try cutting some tuburcles in the leading edges…
What works as as rule / standard for a thruster is line the flat side of fin at one inch off the center of the nose for each side fin , regardless of the length . You can use the streight side of your board template to check.
1/8 of an inch in the length of base of fin would make a big difference thats why fins are set from an off nose measurement.