While final sanding the top of my surfboard I accidentally sanded through the resin and some of the glass. Is there a way to correct this or make the cloth that shows less noticable? Thanks.
Poly, or Epoxy?
Is it through the glass or can you just see a little bit of checkerboard?
…1-sand a bit more around the damaged area, and flat out well.
2-put 2 layers of 4oz, or if its not so deep, 1 4oz and 1 2oz, but always 2 layers; is better to have more fiberglass ratio than resin…laminate them
3-hot coat
4-sand
5-other h coat or gloss coat
6-sand the edges with 180 and a soft pad
7-re start with the overall sanding of the board
Were you sanding around the area where the top of the rail crowns into the deck?
I don’t know where you are and whether or not you have access to this product, but I’ve soaked a paper towel with Thompson’s Water Seal and it hides the sandthroughs really well without adding any weight. You have to do it again about once a year and it takes 48-72 hours to fully cure, but I found it so easy to do and the fact that it adds no weight makes it worth it. It really helps the aesthetics too. The poor/lazy man’s gloss coat.
Poly
a little bit of both … you definately see checkerboard
Thanks.
Yes
[quote="$1"]
...1-sand a bit more around the damaged area, and flat out well.
2-put 2 layers of 4oz, or if its not so deep, 1 4oz and 1 2oz, but always 2 layers; is better to have more fiberglass ratio than resin...laminate them
3-hot coat
4-sand
5-other h coat or gloss coat
6-sand the edges with 180 and a soft pad
7-re start with the overall sanding of the board
[/quote]
Mfsurfboards,
Follow the above instructions. It is the path to salvation.
i dont get it you call yrself something or other surfboards and you dont know how to fix a sand through
**fark just listen to reverb **
** good luck **
**cheers huie
**
…some months ago I read a blog from a guy in S Diego California; the guy showed a picture of one of his boards damaged, etc; well, he say that he will send it to a glass shop to fix because he do not know what to do and say all these expressions like whoa, duh, !!, etc
BUT his shapes¿? are glassed top quality in one of the best shops there and he believe he s a great shaper…
Thats why I started sweeping a shop for free. Learned dings, got beer cans thrown at me. Then glassing, got more beer cans thrown at me. Then Shaping, now I throw the beer cans LOL.
Ding repair is the building block and fundamental tecnique for everything else. When you can fix anything it doesnt matter if you mess up… unless you sand through a red resin tinted board then just light it on fire and put on some hendrix
awesome
Very true, the skill in repairs is how invisible you can fix dings in tints and clear volan. Repairs are also a viable way to fund building your boards. I think that there is more money in the repair business than selling new ones. Consider what 1 gallon of resin will return in repairs versus glassing 1 or 2 new boards.
My only suggestion is try and hotcoat this area a little thicker everytime you hotcoat a board. You can do this by making sure the middle of the brush doesn’t touch very much when running it lengthwise from nose to tail in this particular section of the board. It will give you a smidgen more resin to work with when sanding the board in this “spot” as where the rail crowns into the deck is pretty notorious for hitting the weave and sand throughs.
Uh… just patch it up with a random logo over it… now days placement of a gazillion logos has no rhyme or reason much less symmetry, so there ain’t no reason that a f-ck up can’t be saved. Although I DO kind of like the I-DEER of lighting one up for Jimi…
Future referance;---------------Next time; A decent , EVEN Hotcoat. The better the hotcoat the finer the grit you cant start your sanding with. Also: Keep that sander moving and do not bare down on any particular spot or area. Dial the RPM's back if you have a variable speed. If you don't; slow down and on-off, on-off with the trigger. Hand sand your trouble areas , bumps in the hotcoat etc. You have hit particular spots too hard , too long. Yes you can fix the F~k-ups, as per Reverbs suggestion, but better to know how you got there to begin with and NOT repeat. Lowel