Unfortunately, a lot of these guys seem undergunned & they’re so focused on staying in control that they can’t pull in the beefy barrels. Can’t say I’d do any better… Others, well, they’ve just got the big ugly place flat-out wired. 49* water. 12 minutes +. Enjoy.
Only the bigger sets were DOH by local standards though…the bars still have a way to go too. Every year, they don’t quite break full-on top to bottom until between Christmas and New Years…then there’s a solid two months of relatively uncrowded top-to-bottom DOH niceness. Capped by the late arvo Feb low tides…breaking more hollow than it does any other time…every local surfer goes to his family Christmas and can’t wait to bug out to surf…usually clean glassy DOH empty surf…
It takes a lot of skill and time to get that surf wired. One bad mistake costs you 40+ minutes of paddling. Overgunned and you can’t get tubed, undergunned and the drops get sketchy and just making the wave is tough…and some guys are killing it on shortboards.
I miss it…
BTW, that Saturday video has at least 4 waves by Danny Hess
the tall lanky screwfoot on the wood quad fins killing it. He’s one of the best bigger wave surfers on the beach, and he mostly rides his own twin and quad wood boards.
Edit: also, I’ve done some OBSF DOH videos in the past…
You guys are stoked to have that place. I lucked into some clean overhead waves there a few weeks back and couldn’t stop thinking about what it must have been doing on this last swell.
Had some of my best surfs ever on that stretch of coast in spite of the tit freezing water. I just kept looking at the inside white water. Anybody whose surfed there knows that’s a big part of the equation. On a short interval swell just put yourself down for a good workout.