haven't done it yet but, i plan to do it soon with some Probox's... really thin tail...
i can think of 3 options:
1) sand off the bottom of the Probox as much as possible (1/8" maybe?) then install that much shallower.
2) shape the board, glass the bottom, route the holes, drop the boxes. sand down to the shape anything on the deckside that came through, glass the deck.
3) shape and glass like normal. then route the boxes. sand down to the shape anything on the deckside that came through, glass some patches over where the boxes came through.
i realize with options 2 and 3, i will need to tape off the deckside before i drop the boxes to keep the resin from falling out on the floor... BTW, i like option 3 the best and 1 the least...
I know of guys who simply measure the box thickness with calipers, open the caliper jaws a tad and then slide them on to the tail... that's where the fins go.
I’ve done this on 2 boards,the box didn’t really go through the deck,just the routout did on the very tail end of the box.I lined the hole with glass and layed a piece of tape flat over the hole on the deck and installed as normall.when I pulled the tape after the resin cured it actually looked nice and flat so I just left it.It looked kinda cool because I used clear resin and you could see through the board around the finbox in that area.Just keep in mind if you rout through the deck it doesn’t meen your box will stick out,my rout throughs were about 1/3 of the probox footprint and the box wasn’t sticking above the deck.
For an after-glass install, #3 is your best bet. You can't take too much off the boxes without compromising their integrity, so hopefully they won't come through the deckside very far.
I know of guys who simply measure the box thickness with calipers, open the caliper jaws a tad and then slide them on to the tail... that's where the fins go.
I think John's talking about single boxes, finding the point where there's enough thickness that you won't go through. For side boxes, I wouldn't want to compromise fin position looking for the part of the board they'll ''fit''.
At some point in time you will have to say Fuck it......You have the skills...Go for it my friend....Just do it....
I just grinded the crap out of a 10 inch box so it would fit a thin tail.................... top and bottom.....
you can do it..................
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This is my favorite approach.
You'll be surprised how thin you can go with the boxes.
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Love that Stingray go for it kinda guy. Chris you can move the box forward into a thicker area and shift the tab forward on the fin to move back in the thinner area. Mahalo,Larry
Howzit chris, I think one thing to think about is how many times do we set a fin to the very end of the back of the box,not that much unless the box is set over 6" from the tail.Most boxes I installed were 5 " from the tail and and the fins were usually put close to the center of the box so grinding down the rear of the box didn't really matter. I set my jig so the deepest part was at the center of the box and would rout no deeper than 1" since the box sits 7/8" deep and that left 1/8 " for the resin and glass in the hole. Sure if the fin is set really far back in the box there will be some of the fin flange/screw sticking above the board but it doesn't change how the board rides but where that fin is does. If the hole depth had to be less than 1" deep than the hard part is setting the box in so it is straight and the fin will be perfectly vertical to the bottom. I had a fin with no metal pin so I could put it in the box while gluing it in and then take it out and not stress the box. Aloha,Kokua