I’m wondering if there is a reliable way to find or gague where the apex and rail bands are on a shaped rail? I put a square up to a shaped rail and wasn’t sure if was interpreting it correctly as it is a rounded surface and I’m trying to ID multiple linear lines and “points” on the rail, bottom edge/tuck and deck. Just trying to understand how to set up my rails before I mangle it with the planer.
I have found that you can draw it out to scale (or full size), and take a straight edge, and mark the logical rail band locations. My drawing is crude, but you get the idea - it enables you to take measurements to double check your bands.
the dimensions and band vary as the foil thins out toward the front and back, so you have to adjust accordingly, but the rail as shown is smack middle in the fattest part.
as you get better at visualization, I think you rely on measurements less (and hand shaping is not an exact science, more like art and science combined) but if its a new rail profile I haven’t done a lot of, I like to have some measurements as guidelines.
I should add as a disclamer: I just find solutions that work for me, and go with it. If it helps you out, great, if not, just ignore it and move on - I’m just an artist / carpenter backyard shed guy who likes making my own surfboards, and figuring stuff out as I go. Always pay special attention to the pros, find what works for you, and ignore the chatter.
Thanks Huck, I like that second drawing you have. That’s what I had in my head. The link that I posted the guy was (seemed) able to (at least I read it that way) break down the measurements of the 50/50 rail pretty convincingly which led me to believe perhaps there was (is) a method to it.
I read the link, all he is doing is putting the board on a flat surface, setting a square next to it, and measuring up to the point where the rail touches the edge of the square, and saying, ho - on a three inch thick board a 50-50 rail doesn’t mean that point is 1.5" up. The deck generally domes down a bit at the rail, and the 50-50 refers to the last inch of so of rail, which leaves you further down than half the thickness of the board. Hope that makes sense.
that’s exactly how I think about it, too. But I buy my 1/4" grid graph paper in packs at the dollar store, cuz I go through lots of it - surfboard doodles!
If you are trying to duplicate a rail from an existing board; use a contour gauge. They sell a nice one at Home Depot. It’s back in the Tile Tool Dept. Gauge the rail at differant points along the board. Every six inches or closer if necessary. Trace the rail outline and make poster board cut outs for each point along the rail. Mark the cut out with a Sharpie; @ 6" @12" @ 18" etc. Then use the cutouts to check your rail as you go. You can also use a “jig” and pencil mark your rail bamds before you start. A nice rail is blended and contoured up into the deck.
Nice Huck. Gettin’ better all the time. The graph paper and a pencil work well for getting a visual of what you want. Especially when you are starting from scratch and don’t have something to look at (like another board that you really like). Lowel
If you google, “Greenlight Sample Rail Bands”, they put out some great drawings that should give you a starting point, i.e. knifey, round,full, etc… Compare those with the numbers you get from putting a square on the bottom edge of the board and measuring up.
Or you could just use a yardstick, that’s what all the pro’s do.
So say you have your rail band numbers all set up for the widest and thickest part of your board. How do you adjust those numbers for the rail band measurements at the nose and tail(12" from nose tip and tail tip)???
Not to overstate the obvious, but that depends on what you’re doing at 12" from the nose and tail. You have to have a clear visual in your mind before you begin laying out or cutting rail bands. Once you have the board foiled, and you know what rail shape you’re going for, then decide which rail band planes will get you there best, and adjust your bands as you go, mid to front, mid to back.
I could shape a rail without rail bands, but the bands are a control factor that allows me to visually check that my rails are transitioning smoothly, and matching uniformly both sides. Once the bands are completed, the remaining shaping goes very quickly, basically just a matter of rounding off the ridges between bands.
I’m just a backyarder, this is what works for me. I’m sure you’ll find a method that works for you, after a few boards.
