I’ve been away from this site a few days doing real stuff. Forgot I had tried to even bother with this. Funny $#|t though. Careful with those ridges. You’ll get a hang nail and off to The manicurist you will go.
There’s nothing better than extreme skepticism and negative comments!
…NOT the voices of naysayers, it is the voices of experience. Several folks have given you very sound advice, which you have brushed off.
I just took a heat gun, melted the wax, and used an old t-shirt, scrapers, scotch-brite, paper towels, citrus solvent, denatured alcohol for the light wipes, then I re-taped the stringer, mixed up 200 cc resin research epoxy, 100 cc slow hardener, poured white pigment in, slowly stirred for 4 or 5 minutes until it was nice and thick and uniform and syrupy, poured it out, and brushed it all over which way for 25 minutes. The hotcoat is on the top. I also taped the rails pretty nice to catch drips and give me a nice line that I can hotcoat the bottom to. I actually don’t even remember if I already hot-coated the bottom but another coat of epoxy wouldn’t hurt. Now I have to wait at least 6 hours for the gel. I needed to put a heater in as the temperature is not that hot today. I’ve epoxied in cooler than today though so I should be ok in 64 degrees or so outside, a little warmer inside.
It better work or I’m toast!
Pigmented hot coat?
So now your sand thrus will look like a homeless tee shirt. Dang dude, why not ask the questions first, then see what would work for you…best options. I can’t help you save the board when you continue with destructive behavior… Help us save you from yourself. You need an intervention.
At this stage, sand the hotcoat smooth. Tape off a design, or rails or the whole thing. Spray with a water base paint ( liquitex) … Not fricking homedepot bear Navajo,white. Let dry, then spray with an automotive 2 pack. Something like UPOL#1. Or Max2K , both fantastic products.
But I’m assuming you will,do some thing complete unnatural to that poor board? If you don’t mind me asking… Where do,you reside? Are you in Europe or some place like that?
Dude, tinted resin is the way of the future. Nicer color, less VOC’s up your nose, perfect cure every time. Only the best way is to do it, not only for the hotcoat, but the original lamination, like in this video, that I just saw on Youtube.
If you don’t mind me asking - what on earth is your problem? I’m God.
Now that my board is dry and hard, time to sit back and enjoy a video on laminating with pigmented resins. Better yet, go out to a movie theatre and eat some popcorn and celebrate!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ig93Ofw0-Zs
The guy in the youtube video has the idea.
Man, get with the music Resinhead! Take a toke of something.
You must be from some place other than the US. I ask because your material selection is different from ours, and thus make board building stages slight different… I was just trying to help, but because I can’t understand what you are saying… I’ll just say…You are right…that guy has all the moves in that vid…I finally learned how to laminate a surfboard. Thank you.
It’s clowns like you that make me no longer want to post here. I crawl out from under a rock, post here in god knows how long…and I stumble upon you… Did you think all your crazy building shinagians was going to go unnoticed? Or we were going to say " hey, nice build thread, board turned out fantastic?"
We color our lam coats (which you,didn’t do, or did you…I can’t tell from the wax abortion)… And we do hot coats clear. You will see my point when you sand this machine. I gave you the best option to keep the board light, durable, and responsive.
Hot coats are only applied to fill the weave of the lam coat… It’s not intended to me a cosmetic fix. Hot coats fill the tiny air pins in you lam… So on your board with epoxy you should have used about 8 oz of epoxy to hot coat. Your custom APS2000 shape is gonna weigh 15 lbs…killing all the benefits of an epoxy surfboard.
We put the hot coat on… Then we try to sand it all off…right down to the top of the lam coat…but you already knew this.
I’ll stop responding to this, so you don’t get to over sensitive. Good luck with your future surfboards, there is a world of knowledge at you finger tips… Just don’t bite them.
piss off,
Resinhead
…I do not have a thin skin but reading mostly you are rude with many guys here that know more than you about surfboards and tried to salvage your crap work. Yes, bad work protocol, quality, procedures and manners.
Then you write and response like if you were high and totally incongruous.
That said, you need to understand that any build needs a protocol to repeat consistent the results and to optimize your spent hours on a given labor.
By the way, you say VOCs. There s no any VOC s if you paint a PU blank with Tempera etc; and that s the way that you airbrush a board. If you want to use pigments or tints; you in fact add to those VOCs…
Then you put a link to an amateur color work like you are discovering the gunpowder.
Jay, I really miss the posters of the past. The sharing of proper build techniques, leading edge design ideas, and other than BT and RS arguing, a really cool place to learn something or share something you think others will find useful.
I think it is funny that the original poster has a photo of himself in this thread. Oh, sometimes I wish to be young and foolish again, then I see these things.
This guy says he is God. He must be the god of idiocy. Definitely not the God I pray to.
In a relative sense, I’m God because of all the 6’6" surfboards I own, the one I designed and glassed, is the only one that kicks ass on a wave. It took me less than one minute to catch and ride a wave. The other board don’t paddle as well and they don’t squirt down a wave as well.
All the other 6’6" boards I have suck, except one - my Rusty Priesendorfer board is pretty good, but it’s a tuflite or something, and it’s just a little too soft for my tastes, but it has the right shape. And so does my board have exactly the right shape, albeit different and original, and not like any other board ever made.
So I won that battle of who the best design engineer is - it’s me. And it stands to reason that I would be - I’m a real design engineer.
I’m not afraid to compete against anyone in the world at design. I know I’m in the best 1%.
Also, I just took a board that I made a simple mistake - mixing a bad batch of resin, and made it a nice board again.
If you can’t take my rudeness, then follow some other thread, reverb. And I dare you to say that my board is a piece of crap in front of me - and if you do, I’ll respond appropriately. You’re an ass-hole with a capital A.
You’re the idiot reverb. My only goal now is to find who has the thin skin and thick. I’ll find out reverb!
The reason a mathematical physicist like myself, who went to the University of Pennsylvania, had to start designing boards, is because every fucking board desgined by the so-called shapers in California and New Jersey sucked!
How’s that big boys! I guess you don’t realize that the concept of a “big-boy” board is dumb as fucking hell! You’re all dumb-asses! No A student is a dumb-ass pal!
I’m ready for you pal - I put my money where mouth is - and I’ll win against you.
No thanks to all the shapers! You stink at engineering!
Stunning.
This has to be the funniest thread I’ve seen in a long time. dude can’t be for real, I smell a troll…no one can be this pompous.
Awesome your best board is Popout.,…tell us about the other wave you caught with your Rusty Tuflite… Did you shoot the curl, or hang ten. This is classic shit.
im glad your one-off rainbow unicorn of a surfboard made the grade for you…now we really know where your bar is set. You are truly a CNC Physics Mathematician master designer of surfboards.
“There is none so blind as those that will not see”. "A students do not approach problems in this convoluted way. Taking the piss is an understatement. In the words of Donny Brasco; "This is a Fugazzi!! Let us all pick up our collective legs and re-plant them firmly back in socket. Bless you all for trying to help out.
.
Well!!!
Great sense of humor Huck!
Better thread title may have been….
The first blind graduate shares his story
try to understand a little Archimede’s from the physics true GOD. By the time you add the surfer’s weight to the board, you have my 200 lbs + 10 lbs (to be rough). So the water displaced must float 210 lbs. If it’s one or two lbs lighter, so what, now it’s 208 lbs. of buoyant force. Yes, it’s easier to manipulate a lighter board and it floats ever so slightly higher in the water. But don’t think that the weight of a surfboard is paramount in your surfing. But yes, it’s easier to carve fancy on a 5 or 6 lb. board than my 10 pounder. But I can make lighter versions of the board - mine is superblue foam - I can use lighter foam, vacuum bag, whatever. I may need to research this. But I want a strong beater board anyway, so I can keep it longer. A pro board is a throwaway after a month or two. It’s a slight effect. I might get mad at you, but I’m not a malicious person. And I have every bit the hands-on mentality even though I was trained in Math. I like the hands-on experiences as much as you.
But Huck has the idea - popcorn time. My board is getting really shiny. After all, I forgot to put surfacing agent in, in all my rush to prove that I can tint a board and make it good again.
The weight of a board matters a little, but not a lot. Some of my best boards weigh a ton.
It kind of sucks to have knowledge.
How would you know??? There is intelligence. There is knowledge. And there is common sense. Anyway you present yourself, it appears you are at the end of the line, or full of it. You tipped your hand when you said you didn’t realize the bottom of the CNC grooves were the final shape. An engineer?? Maybe playing with your Lionel’s. Clickety clack…Choo choo.
