Here are the pics
filler coat with 3 ml of resin left over from one other deck ding repair.
will sand then spray with off white urethane from spray gun to hide repair.
mixed up 7 oz of Fiberglass hawaii aluzine 2:1 fast cure. Used maybe 3-4 ozs to wet out top and bottom. Placed on board. Put peel ply over lapping rails. Taped off. release film applied, breather cloth placed and bagged and vacuumed. Rolled out repair prior to bringing to hot house which is at 115F now.
To protect leash cup from epoxy, filled with putty that came with my FCS generation 1 plugs and filled cup hole. Put release film on top.
sammich top and bottom. 4ozE/1mm nl-20 cork/6oz CF top to bottom. Used air tac 2 from fiberglass hawaii to secure fiberglass to cork.
Your idea is the heavy way(weigh). For snapped boards I do a corcell repair on either side of the stringer and use epoxy and milled fibers. GGlue is messy but sometime is the perfect solution. On finbox inserts I use epoxy cuz Gglue is too messy and the tight fit only needs a little epoxy. My release film is reusable. That piece is probably 10 years old. Feels like stealing when I take the home despot plastic sheet with surfboard repair in mind.
Thanks for your input. going to vac bag the final repair tomorrow.
I have a question. Why did you use Gorilla glue to glue the Corcell in place? Epoxy with some filler like micro balloons would work without the expansion problems of Gorilla Glue. You can also use a clear plasit sheet from Home Depot as a barrior release.
Just some of my thoughts on the repair. The end results look good.
I have a question. Why did you use Gorilla glue to glue the Corcell in place? Epoxy with some filler like micro balloons would work without the expansion problems of Gorilla Glue. You can also use a clear plasit sheet from Home Depot as a barrior release.
Just some of my thoughts on the repair. The end results look good.
Carbon Fiber, texallium, wood, cork. Any preferences Bernie?
Anything will do Charlie just make it bulletproof so it’ll last
most of it will be covered by a new stomp pad
“Was going to paint it white or not?”
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I’m not that concerned about aesthetics
I’ll probably keep this one for a while it’s a pretty fun board for when the waves are awful
thanks for the help Charlie!
and you’re right Keith
they definitely aren’t Sunova’s
Corcell inserts sanded down and an epoxy based light weight filler put on. Will sand most of this away and then vacuum bag something on it. Carbon Fiber, texallium, wood, cork. Any preferences Bernie? Was going to paint it white or not?
It was very unusual foam Bernie. So smooth, consistently dense yet super light weight. I watched that video you posted. Pretty amazing the car driving over the board. Didn’t show too much of the tech being applied to the board though. Are they made in Asia??
The other thing I noticed on your board is how yellow the epoxy got. Aren’t they using RR epoxies???. Will carefully sand to find white again if possible. I love the shape. I am going to make me one that is wider and longer by an inch or two. I think it would make an nice SUP outline also.
Yeah Keith. I definately condsidered what you did for your repair. My lazy nature made me try the way I did. Just don’t tell Bernie.
I don’t know the exact recepie layup for those boards but it could have possible been abused. It would take very little to build the deck more durable without adding hardly any weight. Firewire knows where to find us if they need some consultation.
Interesting method…I did a repair on a similar firewire deck using 1/4" balsa inserts, but for the whole damaged area rather than a spider web… looked sort of like an oversized flat traction pad when done.
The foam/glass deck combo in those boards is a little under-engineered in my opinion… at least in the rear foot-stomping area.
I need to have my video camera ready when do use that 5-8. Gonna be funny watching you try to get to your feet.
Mahalo Charlie…
thought for sure the whole rear deck foam would have to be cut and dug out then rebuilt back with expanding pour foam or cut foam blocks, skinned in dcell and reglassed like you were making the board all over again from scratch like I saw on Eva’s website for a severely collapsed deck on an epoxy sailboard.
I like this design as well
Dan Mann’s potatonator is a great quad groveler design perfect for small White Plains and Haubush weak wind waves
I always thought those FSTs were indestrictable compared to the newer bamboo skinned ones
can’t even imagine what the damage this guy would’ve done to a PU board doing his airs to cause this much damage to an FST epoxy Firewire.
I was also impressed with these Resin8 boards from Tokoro and Sam Egan they seem to be tougher on the outside with their premolded divinycel shells. Picked this up as well as something to strive to be able to ride one day (in my dreams as my brother says) 5’8"x21.75x2.75
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uaEP_pAUmzI
mahalo again
Placed weights over sand bags to prevent expanding glue from disturbng placed corcell inserts.
Weights purchased from mario’s meat packing and barbell company, wisconsin.
Never really got to ever check out closely a firewire board. Not sure what year this model is but they are very nice boards in my opinion.
Placed sand filled ziplock bags that were purchased at safeway food mart over release film. Sand supplied by God.
