Cbass, please be careful with those large router bits. Were you going to make a practice run on scrap? I hope it goes well and you have a good report for us. -J
what could happen with the larger ones?
bb30 makes a important point - you have to be able to see what you are doing if you are going to do it free hand.
I think jrandy’s warning about the larger bit is: it’s close tolerance and one wrong move can mess a lot up.
cbass - I don’t know what level of profficiency you have with the router/power/hand tools in general, so take your level of skill, and comfort with the tools into consideration. Also consider how “precious” you are about how your board looks. One bottom line is: you’re making something to have fun with, and you are working with materials which allow for the addative process, so if you totally mess something up, count it as a learning experience, repair the mistake, and move forward.
cbass,
Do yourself a favor, wait and buy a trim router.
I’d love to see a Future box routed without a jig.
Not saying it’s not possible, but why?
Routers are The most dangerous tool in the shop.
20,000 Rpm’s, that’s how you either get hurt, or destroy a boards you spent all that time on.
My Ridgid has a built in speed control.
Mines set at 1/2 speed.
And it has a built in light.
Good for my old eyes.
The 13 mm wide x 25mm length straight bit is all you need. Do the center deep cut at the correct depth first. The use the same router/bit for the flange depth. on the outlined mark you draw on the blank or taped blank. You may become so proficient at it your nick name with be the “human jig”.
hi again,
I hope I don’t get on people’s nerves here, but I sourced another router to install the future boxes and all I could come up with was this:
The foot is round so it should be possible to make my own jig. please bear in mind that right now I neither have the time nor the funding for the proper router set from future. they only have the new one-pass ones in France and they cost around 300$ and would take about 14 days to ship.
cbass, I gues if you are going to make your own jig, that may work.
Future boxes are rectangular with round corners.
The router we use fit inside the doughnut which fits inside a oval insert.
The doughnut flips over for different depths of cut.
The one deepest side is for the long, deep, vertical part of the box.
The other is for the flat flange.
Good luck.
thank you barry!
without all the help here I would never get this project finished. once everything is done I will open a first build thread and show my final result as well as all the steps in between…
unless no one cares?!?
good night…
the router you’ve shown will be perfect. You need to make yourself 2 jigs, one to cut the deeper thin part of the box and one for the outer flange. If you take your time making the jig you could produce an outer ‘frame’ from plywood that is just a rectanglular outer frame that your 2 cutting jigs drop into. That way you tape the outer frame in position for each cut into the bottom of your board then drop your deep cut jig into that. Once you’ve cut that slot lift out the first jig and drop in the second to route the flange. That way there will be no fiddly work trying to register the 2 cuts. To make each cutting jig mark out the shape you are cutting on your plywood rectangle and then mark all round the shape with your offset which will be your distance from the edge of the router bit to the outside of the outer sole plate of your router. As mentioned above you want your box tight in the hole. No clearance for resin. Cheers and good luck- rich
