Loved it, watched every wave… Needed to go to work but didn’t leave to screan.
Massive, Awesome, Crazy, some real core surfers on display
I’m not into the bigger waves, I’d rather froth out and catch heaps of fun waves, But what I saw today was special.
…Thought Slater had it, he truely is the best surfer period. Barrels WTF, shore break mental. Pottz lost his mind all day, I think he’ll need a big lyedown tonight.
Took a little bit to grasp the whole seriousness of the whole deal from the start, but you guys out there that love those sort of waves I take my hat off to you… And the shapers that make boards that are between life and death, wow, serious stuff. Hawaii, never been. Like to watch mother ocean like that one day.
9am coffee..surfing..eating lunch...shaping...surfing..hot shower... 11:30pm Eddie live boadcast till 5am ...closed eyes for 4 hours ...coffee......shaping...surfing...sunset...hot shower ...swaylocks..