First Semi-Major Repair (Photo update 11/6)

Hey all…I’m going to attempt to do my first large repair on an older Lance Collins. I have a few questions before starting. I did some research but I’m still a bit shady on a few things. I was directed to this board for some help.

As you can see, it a pretty good chunck thats missing. I figure I’ll just go through what I plan on doing before I do it and please correct or comment on my steps. I’ll add some questions as I go along.

First, I plan on cutting out all loose/jagged edges…make the edges clean and squear. Then I will cut and shap a peice of foam to fit the empty spot ( should I leave some room to shap later or should I shape the foam to exact demensions right off the bat?). Then, I will use laminating resin to coat the egdes of the board and the peice of filler foam. I will use straps or ‘tie downs’ to secure the foam in place, adding some extra resin to the edges where the foam meets the board. Once dry…I will start the glassing process.

I will use one layer of 4oz glass on the bottom. (should I cutout some old glass so I can sand even in the futuer or should I just sand about an inche back on the good board before I lay the glass? How much should I over lap?) Also, I have trouble understanding the differences between resins…and when to use what. I guess I would use a sanding resin when coating the glass…but what kind…is that what it is called when I’m looking for it in the store?

I will do the same on top using two layers of 4oz glass. Again, the same questions apply (overlap, resin)?

If someone can go through the diff types of resins used to make boards that wouod help. After the initial coats do I need to put another layer of resin? I’ve heard the term ‘hot coat’…does that apply to me?

Sorry for the mess of questions on my first post. I appreciate all the help and will keep you posted on the repair.

I know what happened…Everyone tried to reply at once and the server got a bit confused…no problem. Ha.

Anyway - one more quick question if anyone is out there. I’m not near a surf shop where I could get an extra chunk of foam…is there anything I can use from the home depot or a store like that instead of actual surf board foam? Thanks again.

Hi,

I have been thinking about this some, and maybe I have a few useful suggestions. Was gonna answer last night but…stuff happens, y’know?

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First, I plan on cutting out all loose/jagged edges…make the edges clean and squear. Then I will cut and shap a peice of foam to fit the empty spot ( should I leave some room to shap later or should I shape the foam to exact demensions right off the bat?). Then, I will use laminating resin to coat the egdes of the board and the peice of filler foam. I will use straps or ‘tie downs’ to secure the foam in place, adding some extra resin to the edges where the foam meets the board. Once dry…I will start the glassing process.

Especially as you haven’t got access to foam, what I’d do is this;put that saw away immediately. Now. Don’t saw, cut, bend, fold, spindle or mutilate. Bad idea. Sorry about that, but if you can avoid cutting then don’t cut. The other thing is that the irregular edge will be less noticeable than a squared off cut when you’re done.

Instead, go to a local marina and get some two-part foam. Make an oversized mold (with the top open, don’t make a closed mold) of masking tape and cardboard, line it with wax paper and attach it to the deck side, mix some of the foam up and pour it in. If they haven’t got it, look elsewhere. If you can’t find any ( and they will likely have it at West Marine ) then you can try some of the spray insulation foam from the builder’s supply, but I’d use that as the last resort, it tends to be a kind of light yellow-tan in color and the board isn’t all that brown yet so it will show. They make two kinds of spray foam, one expands less than the other and that’d be the kind to use.

It’s not only a helluva lot easier, it turns out what I think is a better job. Take off the mold carefully, shape it to match the other side with surform and sandpaper. Sand well onto the old glass to rough up the surface, maybe 3 inches or so. That takes care of step 1.

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I will use one layer of 4oz glass on the bottom. (should I cutout some old glass so I can sand even in the futuer or should I just sand about an inche back on the good board before I lay the glass? How much should I over lap?) Also, I have trouble understanding the differences between resins…and when to use what. I guess I would use a sanding resin when coating the glass…but what kind…is that what it is called when I’m looking for it in the store?

Don’t cut anything. Put that saw in the cellar. When in doubt, don’t cut. Or rout, or slice. Really. I mean it.

If you want to try for a color match, then hit the local art supply store for some watercolor markers. You can probably come fairly close on color and you won’t do a whole lot better with anything else. Use masking tape to define where you want to put the color and have at it, right on the foam.

Okay, having done that it’s glassing time. Your local Ace Hardware doesn’t have surfboard-quality resins. But your friendly neighborhood surf shop does, as do a number of mail order suppliers. For that matter, Bunger is down your way and they definitely have it. Don’t get sun cure resins, get the other kind that needs catalyst. Get laminating resin and sanding resin, maybe a pint of each. Get six ounce cloth, not 4.

Now, the best demo of glassing technique I can point you to is what Hicksy shows on the video that you can see in another thread. Unless you’re experienced with a squeegee, use a brush like he shows, it’s much, much easier for your first job. The throwaway bristle ‘chip’ brushes the hardware store has are perfect for this. Don’t use a nylon brush, the resin will mess it up.

For this, rather than doing top and bottom as you would on a new board, I might wrap one piece around the rails, make a cut at the corner so it’ll wrap right and then put the resin to it with a brush. Then maybe a second layer, wider/more overlap. You’ll want maybe 3" of lap onto the old glass.

By the way, you can get away with just sanding resin, just you want to put the second layer on when the first layer is still a bit tacky.

Having done that and let it dry, sand the edges, mask around it and brush on sanding resin. That’s a combined hotcoat and gloss. When the resin starts to gel, pull off the tape, wet sand if need be when it’s hardened, polish if need be and there you go.

hope that’s of use

doc…

Doc…Thanks so much for taking the time to help me out. Unfortunatly, I got a bit excited and started this morning…with a copping saw. I wish I had read your post first! Well, the damage is done so on to fixing the problem. Should I still use you ‘filler foam’ method or should I look for chunk of foam to fill the void? Again, THANKS for the help!!

http://tinypic.com/ezfrye.jpg

De nada, man. It’s my fault for not answering sooner.

Ok, again, Bunger may well have some foam in addition to the other stuff : http://www.bungersurf.com/ the trimmings from a blank might just do the trick. Don’t try to do it in two pieces though, that always seems to go badly.

The way I’d do it is rough-cut the foam to fit the existing cutout, then work on the fit. Don’t remove any more from the board, do all your fitting on the new foam. Get it as good a fit as possible. Me, I would use 80-100 grit sandpaper to do the final fitting, but if there’s something you’re more comfortable and experienced with then by all means use it.

To stick it on, the clamping methods you described before will work okay. I might use something like Gorilla Glue rather than resin, as it’ll expand to fill voids and it’s going to be more ‘foamy’ in texture so that getting it all shaped down to the right size will go easier: no hard spots to throw off your tools. It’ll harden/go off to a yellow-tan color too, kinda like whole wheat bread, but if your fit is real close that little glue line won’t be noticable.

I’d use cardboard like maybe that heavy card stock they use as shirt cardboard to make patterns and templates from the other side so that you can have it just like it should be when you come to shape it down.

Uhmm- one advantage, though. If you want to save some of the cutaway stuff, then you can take that and some scrap foam to the art supply place and test their markers on the scrap foam. I dunno about you, but my memory for the exact color shades isn’t all that hot. If you can take along a sample, it’ll make life a lot easier.

Anyhow- hope that helps some.

doc…

Do you know anyone with a broken board? I’m working on a very similar repair and I’m about done shaping a piece to fit the hole from my first surfboard, now broken cleanly in half :slight_smile:

Hopefully it will work out pretty well. It’s been on hold for a bit while I build racks to make it (and my upcoming shaping project) much more comfortable.

DOC - Thanks so much for all the help…the project is on hold until I can find some foam - Unfortunatly I’m not that close to any surf shops so my options are limited. I checked out bungers and they are low on all supplies…(no sanding resin…no glass…one huge container of laminating resin…) We finnaly get some big surf up here in NY and everyone breaks there boards…ha.

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Do you know anyone with a broken board? I’m working on a very similar repair and I’m about done shaping a piece to fit the hole from my first surfboard, now broken cleanly in half :slight_smile:

Unfortunaltly no…I’m still looking. I have a couple buddies that live near the water checking the trash and local shops…

Are you in the NY area?

De nada, man.

Also, phone around to any board makers in the area…a lot of 'em down Jersey way. Look for blanks broken in shipping - happens often enough that you could maybe score.

Another place to check would be a sign-maker. They use, some of them, a polyurethane foam sheet material that’s pretty good stuff, reasonably high density.

Laminating resin is no problem, if you can get some of the styrene wax addative stuff that’s used to make sanding resin out of laminating resin. Check your local yellow pages for polyester resin suppliers: like catalyst, the wax is pretty generic.

hope that’s of use

doc…

Here some photos of my progress…

I found it easier to shape down the foam when it was already resined to the board instead of shapping/fitting/shapping/fitting…

These are not the finished pictures…she got a bit more sanding and - another coat of 4oz glass and a hot coat. I was pretty happy with how she came out.

As for what I did right…

Its perfectly symetrical and smooth as a babies ass. Wet sanded it with 600 - running your hand over it you can’t tell the difference between the old board and repair. If you line it up, the contour of the old board follows the new shape…

Things I would change…

I mixed the resin to fast = air bubbles…

The resin was sitting outside…now that I’m done sanding I see a few black speckles in the glass/resin…looks like dirt

I over shaped the foam…making me build up with resin and glass to get the height needed to match the old shape.

I did a bunch of research to do this repair right…now I’m amped on making my own board!!

How are the colors normaly done on a board (right on the foam? Paint? cloth? On top of the first layer of glass/resin?) I tried to math the color with a watercolor marker but it was very off, would have looked half ass. Someone metioned to use water color…why? Why not perm? Thanks for all the help. I’ll post finished pics if I get a chance…

THANKS FOR ALL THE HELP!!!