Had a very unlucky year surf wise, but today I hadn’t surfed for two months. I normally average one a week, sometimes more, so I’ve been going a bit stir crazy. Finally got out after work today, shoulder high, half decent. Faaaaaaarrrk!!!, so good!. I’ve been hitting the gym so fitness wasn’t too bad, just good to be out there. Fingers crossed my luck starts to change.
New wetty fits great ( down to large from xxl )
Fractured toe was fine
I could pop up and turn haha
Thought i’d share
good shit beery hows the water over there? getting cold here, loosing weight might call for a nee smaller board.
I can relate. Once went years without surfing. Many years. And now I live about 2 hrs from the beach. I have my dry spells, to say the least. Right now I’m working a job at the beach, about 15 minutes from Malibu, so I’ve been getting out dawn patrol almost every weekday for the past month - so stoked! Surf has been pretty good, too, up 'til about Wed. of this week.
My wife tells me I’m a dick when I don’t surf enough. You probably think I don’t surf enough. I need to surf more so I don’t hang around this place.
Good stuff mate,
I was out for 8 months once, it really sucked.
However it taught me a great lesson, Just how beautiful the ocean is for the soul.
On ya mate
Cheers!
Surf when you can! Glad to hear you got wet........good for the soul!
Funny how it works,,,,,,,Stay Stoked BeerFan!
Thanks guys, good to be in the water again. Tommorth, I have an eps short board almost ready to glass. I don’t really surf short boards, mostly fish egg and longboard so we’ll see how it goes!