Had a very unlucky year surf wise, but today I hadn’t surfed for two months. I normally average one a week, sometimes more, so I’ve been going a bit stir crazy. Finally got out after work today, shoulder high, half decent. Faaaaaaarrrk!!!, so good!. I’ve been hitting the gym so fitness wasn’t too bad, just good to be out there. Fingers crossed my luck starts to change.
I can relate. Once went years without surfing. Many years. And now I live about 2 hrs from the beach. I have my dry spells, to say the least. Right now I’m working a job at the beach, about 15 minutes from Malibu, so I’ve been getting out dawn patrol almost every weekday for the past month - so stoked! Surf has been pretty good, too, up 'til about Wed. of this week.
Thanks guys, good to be in the water again. Tommorth, I have an eps short board almost ready to glass. I don’t really surf short boards, mostly fish egg and longboard so we’ll see how it goes!