First Urethane coated performance board

General Discussion
1

Hi All,

 

Made my first Superformer Series board witha 4oz 2 part Urethane coating,

Process took about a day longer than starndard, the bright white look was really attractive!

the guy that wanted it asked for a red and black design which I had done, i had this theary about Urethane, when its sprayed it leaves micro dimples, creating a slicker surface as shiny or smooth surfaces tend to hold on to water.

I have made the exact same board without the Urethane and I have to admit the Urethane coating it much faster, just seems to glide along the surface better and has more water flow.

also creates a nice seal some what like that seal skin stuff.

the bottom was dome by posca as you can probably tell.

the top and bottom was Urethane base coated with a red and black auto acrylic to style it.

 

The superformer series has longer nose point, single to double concave between the fins, mid-full rocker and mid-shallow rails.

 

all in all the perfomance seemed to increase, though I don't think i will make it standard in a board model, as it just adds cost and time to the construction, having saying that if someone wants to pay extra for it i would probably do it.

the look is good though, semi strigerless with a nice bright white look.

 

any feedback past experience would be greatly appreciated,

 

thanks for looking.

 

Cools

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2

Lots of pics, great looking board.  Got a pic of the product used?

3

[quote="$1"]

Lots of pics, great looking board.  Got a pic of the product used?

[/quote]

Dont have any pics of it but more than happy to take some and will post soon, Its called "Norfill" 2 part Urethane White. Its initial use was for the final coating on boat hulls. Hence the idea for board bottoms.

It goes on like a dream out of the 2mm gun, thinned to 60% thinners to keep weight down and improve overall smooth finish, also really glossy off the gun. but i matted it out with 400grit wet/dry.

Please note if you try this your pre paint glass job must be immaculate, when you paint it shows every ding, lump and pinhole. especially if you intend on keeping it glossy.

Otherwise there awesome.

 

 

Thanks! yeah it looks really good

4

I have spayed Thousands of Gallons of two Part Polyurethane on Yachts up to a 120 foot long. It is an expensive but very effective coating system.  They do make additives that will give you a semi gloss or mat finish. That way you do not have to sand. Personally I like the high gloss. So glossy that you can see your reflection in the Paint.

5

I have some two-part urethane left over from a previous unrelated project.  I did some research, and it is intended for a marine application.  So I tried rolling a coat on a board that was ready for gloss, but it doesn't have self-levelling properties, so I'm gonna sand it and try spraying it.  I have to say, from sanding, it is a VERY TOUGH surface, seems to be tougher than resin.

6

Artz, How do the automotive 2 parts stand up to full immersion vs. the yacht grades or the aviation grades of 2 part urethanes??  Have you had any particular good luck with any lower cost grades of 2 part? Thanks

7

I have never heard of Simpson coatings. might be a good idea to look them up on the net and see if they have application guides and or different thinners for rolling and tipping with a brush or spraying. Most quality LPU coatings have a wide verity of reducers and drying agents.  When I was in my prime I could roll and tip and get a finish that was equal to the best spray application. Look at some of the Awl Grip products and also Sterling Coating products. Detco Marine has a web site that gives a lot of tips on The application of Stirling Coatings. Many of the tips can be applied to any of the LPU systems.

8

[quote="$1"]

Artz, How do the automotive 2 parts stand up to full immersion vs. the yacht grades or the aviation grades of 2 part urethanes??  Have you had any particular good luck with any lower cost grades of 2 part? Thanks

[/quote]

 I have used Dupont Emron on yachts, It's apreety good product.  However it does not have the same elastisity as the marine formulated coatings. You also get a better selection of thinners, reducers and aditives with Stirling and Awl Grip then Emron.  Those help you when you are not working under perfect conditions.

9

The best thing about the Urethane compared to Auto Paints is the flexibility in it, a surfboard naturally flex's in the surf, Urethane flex's with the board were as auto paint becomes quite hard especially 2 pac whcih makes it crack and chip, a 500ml tin with hardener would set you back about $40aud, thinned out would coat atleast 20 boards,

the gloss finish looks really good and it is a very durable surface. so far had no flaking or scratching.

10

[quote="$1"]

I have some two-part urethane left over from a previous unrelated project.  I did some research, and it is intended for a marine application.  So I tried rolling a coat on a board that was ready for gloss, but it doesn't have self-levelling properties, so I'm gonna sand it and try spraying it.  I have to say, from sanding, it is a VERY TOUGH surface, seems to be tougher than resin.

[/quote]

 

Hi Huck,

yes i would def try spraying, rolling may add too much paint and put alot of weight in it,

the less hardener you also put in it the better it levels, but cure times will be 24hrs maybe more.

11

Does anybody have an idea what the approximate durometer of the cured urethane skin is?

Nice work!

12

[quote="$1"]

Hi Huck,

yes i would def try spraying, rolling may add too much paint and put alot of weight in it,

the less hardener you also put in it the better it levels, but cure times will be 24hrs maybe more.

[/quote]

I found the product description online, and it said the product is made for ocean going boats and other marine applications.  I'll have to go back and see what other info I could glean.

I was happy to give it a try - I've had this stuff just sitting in my garage for awhile, and it cost a bundle.  Glad to find a use for it!  Plus, I'm out of gloss resin, and out of cash LOL.

The hardener ratio given is 1:4, so I've been sticking with that.  There is a trick to rolling, and I'm getting better.  You have to pour it on thick, roll it quick and even, and don't go back over it.  Just work the wet edge, and move along quickly.  I wetsanded the finish, then buffed, and its come out beautiful so far.  I'll try to get some pics.  That said, spraying would be better, I just hate the fumes of sprayed, because of the mist that gets in the air.  Right now I'm ok with rolling, and just putting a bit extra work into wetsanding.

One thing I haven't figured out - the coat I applied this morning before work is dry and sandable, but the remainder in the cup is as liquid as it was when mixed.

13

Nice board… the outline would make a good high wind kite surfboard mainly due to the pulled nose…

Here’s a link to a fantastic Canadian made 2 part poly that   I, and many others have used on boards with great results…

This paint has been used on boards with thicknesses of less than 1/4", and it does NOT chip or flake off, so it obviously has fantatic flex properties… It sprays on very smooth and is sold in gloss and semi  gloss mixes… It is extremely durable when subjected to abrasion…Even the primers are super durable

I’ve been painting boards with it since the mid 80’s and I ain’t dead yet… That being said… This stuff is quite dangerous, as it’s fairly toxic in it’s arosol form…

I’m trying to avoid using it for obvious reasons, although it’s the best medium used when spraying textured rough decking, and I still use it for that…

The only other negative attached to high quality 2 part poly paints is the cost.   Which is quite high…

Anyway … Bomber paint, great for flexible water craft, should really be sprayed while wearing a positive airflow pressure respirator, or at the very least a good quality organic vapour cartrage…

.As Huck mentioned …It’s time consuming and harder to sand, which ironically, is  the sought after quality when you grind the board into the beach sand…

.My regular daily ride twin tip kite board  was built 5 years ago, and the paint job is still shiney with chipping only where I’ve hit the local solid limestone bottom…

I’ve attached my only remaining picture of my 140cm. x39cm. channel bottomed twin tip daily rider that I built 5 years ago…

The yellow Endura paint job looks nearly the same now as it did then…  This board featured lapped rails of less than 1/4" at the tips… and a carbon -kevlar  S glass over  a  A550 Core-Cell core…  .A somewhat overly stiff board by todays standards, but an exciting responsive ride that I just can’t let go of…

Notice the thruster set up on one end of the board?.. I’ve always favored twin tip kite boards that have a defined front and back…

Sorry for drifting off topic, but it’s amasing how well high quality 2 part poly paints and clears hold up…If you want me to take pictures of the same board in today’s condition, send me a PM and I’ll show you how well the paint has stood the test of time…

The 133cm. long board described as a 133 double diamond… was  base painted with an Endura white… The red to yellow fade deck paint was done using Krylon for Plastic… I scuff sanded the Krylon red to yellow fade, then clear coated with Endura 2 part poly…


14

Haven't really polished it up to mirror finish, but it buffs up nice.  One reason I don't mind rolling and sanding is I don't like the mist from spraying.  Still puts off fumes, but much less from rolling than spraying.  Just a bit more elbow grease.  I'm learning there are ways to work the roller to get a better finish.  Pour it on thick, then spread it thin with the roller, working quickly.  Don't go back, once its spread, move on, always working the wet edge, continuing to pour it thick and spread it thin.

15

Do you tape the rails to get a clean flow line?

16

not sure if that question was directed at me?  Nothing more embarassing than responding to someone then you find out they weren't talking to you LOL.

but, uh, yeah, I do tape the edge of the rail so no drips roll under when I'm finishing.

17

No worries.  The question was for you or anybody willing to answer.

I’m happy to get an answer.

Do you remove the tape immediately after the working side has been coated?

18

as soon as it starts to gel I pull the tape

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btw, here's the product specs:

Product Description and Intended Use:
Mar-Thane 2000 is a Hi-Solids Polyisocyante Prepolymer Urethane specifically formulated as a universal environmental coating that exceeds industry standards for color retention, excellent adhesion, gloss durability, superb hardness for impact, mar and abrasion resistance. Its superior hard shell finish provides extensive protection against the harsh demands of caustics and acids, weathering elements of the sun, salt, humidity and fog. Used as a clear or pigmented coating, Mat-Thane 2000 is the ideal "Anti-Graffiti" coating for preventing damage to, preserving and protecting the beauty of natural or previously coated wood, metal, and masonry substrates.

The Mar-Thane 2000 system is designed to be used on the exteriors of chemical tanks and water storage ("non potable" fresh or salt) tank linings. This system is highly suitable for coating both original or repainted equipment such as shop machinery, playground or entertainment equipment, fork lifts, industrial equipment and fittings, metal and wood office furniture. It is truly an excellent abrasion resistant coating for interior and exterior wood, metal, and masonry substrates in an array of different high traffic environments such as: schools (i.e.; lockers, locker rooms, shower rooms, bathroom stalls, gymnasiums, cafeterias, indoor/outdoor sports stadiums and facilities), hospitals; i.e.; (elevators, stairwells, corridors, doors, door casings), laboratory facilities and airline hangers.

Mar-Thane 2000 clear and pigmented finishes are exceptional "Anti-Graffiti" finishes that give the ultimate protection needed for aggregates (natural or polished), bricks/stone, masonry (smooth or textured), stucco finishes, sculptured/smooth cement, i.e.; (highway esplanades, overpasses, tunnels, sound retention walls, public restrooms, statues and monuments), or any indiscriminate natural substrate that is subject to the punishing demands of the "Graffiti-Artists".

Mar-Thane 2000 is available in a clear gloss and three gloss ready-mix colors, along with a gloss white and tint base suitable for tinting pastel colors using no more than four ounces of colorant, a deeptone base suitable for tinting midtone deep colors using no more than eight ounces of colorant and a masstone base suitable for tinting the ultra deep colors using no more than sixteen ounces of colorant.

Note: Mix together four parts Mar-Thane 2000 Base #105-2XX with one part Mar-Thane 2000 Catalyst #105-222. Mix only enough material that can be used in a pot life a 80°F for 6 hours or 100°F for 3 hours. Do not re-catalyze into expired material. Stir or agitate contents thoroughly. Do not attempt to use other manufacturers converters with the Mar-Thane base and do not mix Mar-Thane 2000 with other products.

19

[quote="$1"]

as soon as it starts to gel I pull the tape

---------

btw, here's the product specs:

Product Description and Intended Use:
Mar-Thane 2000 is a Hi-Solids Polyisocyanate Prepolymer Urethane specifically formulated as a universal environmental coating that exceeds industry standards for color retention, excellent adhesion, gloss durability, superb hardness for impact, mar and abrasion resistance. Its superior hard shell finish provides extensive protection against the harsh demands of caustics and acids, weathering elements of the sun, salt, humidity and fog. Used as a clear or pigmented coating, Mat-Thane 2000 is the ideal "Anti-Graffiti" coating for preventing damage to, preserving and protecting the beauty of natural or previously coated wood, metal, and masonry substrates.

The Mar-Thane 2000 system is designed to be used on the exteriors of chemical tanks and water storage ("non potable" fresh or salt) tank linings. This system is highly suitable for coating both original or repainted equipment such as shop machinery, playground or entertainment equipment, fork lifts, industrial equipment and fittings, metal and wood office furniture. It is truly an excellent abrasion resistant coating for interior and exterior wood, metal, and masonry substrates in an array of different high traffic environments such as: schools (i.e.; lockers, locker rooms, shower rooms, bathroom stalls, gymnasiums, cafeterias, indoor/outdoor sports stadiums and facilities), hospitals; i.e.; (elevators, stairwells, corridors, doors, door casings), laboratory facilities and airline hangers.

Mar-Thane 2000 clear and pigmented finishes are exceptional "Anti-Graffiti" finishes that give the ultimate protection needed for aggregates (natural or polished), bricks/stone, masonry (smooth or textured), stucco finishes, sculptured/smooth cement, i.e.; (highway esplanades, overpasses, tunnels, sound retention walls, public restrooms, statues and monuments), or any indiscriminate natural substrate that is subject to the punishing demands of the "Graffiti-Artists".

Mar-Thane 2000 is available in a clear gloss and three gloss ready-mix colors, along with a gloss white and tint base suitable for tinting pastel colors using no more than four ounces of colorant, a deeptone base suitable for tinting midtone deep colors using no more than eight ounces of colorant and a masstone base suitable for tinting the ultra deep colors using no more than sixteen ounces of colorant.

Note: Mix together four parts Mar-Thane 2000 Base #105-2XX with one part Mar-Thane 2000 Catalyst #105-222. Mix only enough material that can be used in a pot life a 80°F for 6 hours or 100°F for 3 hours. Do not re-catalyze into expired material. Stir or agitate contents thoroughly. Do not attempt to use other manufacturers converters with the Mar-Thane base and do not mix Mar-Thane 2000 with other products.

[/quote]

 When I was painting yachts I was a cretified applicater for both Sterling and Awl Grip Paints. 

From The above I can Tell That what you have is an industrial coating. Usually they will not give you the high gloss fine finish that a LPU made for painting Yachts and Aircraft.  With a high end finish there should never be any need to wet sand. The coating will go on smooth, without any brush strokes rolled tracks. When sprayed there little to no orange peel if sprayed.  The coating would go on in millimeters saving on weight ,yet still be extremely durable. 

 Use what you have seems like you are happy with the results.

 

20

Yes, it is an industrial coating.  I buffs up nice, but not mirror finish.  It does dry shiny, but has to be wetsanded / polished.  It was for an "anti-graphitti" application, and I had the leftovers in my garage.  My budget is smaller than a Victoria's Secret catwalk outfit, might as well use the balance of the (very expensive) can.