Fixing a "mushy" ding

Hey all, I need some advice on fixing an unusual ding. One of my local spots has a really jaggedy bottom near shore, with lots of rocks that lurk just below the surface near shore on high tide and like to munch unsuspecting boards on their way in. Makes going leashless pretty much out of the question, unfortunately. I just finished a new 5-fin Bonzer, had it out for its first surf the other night and everything was going well, until I rode one too far in because I was digging on the Bonzer drive and it came up with some nice spider dings on the rail. Most of them are just cosmetic, this board has a green cutlap and the dings show up as white spiderwebs. However, there is one ding that isn’t cracked through the glass, but is kind of “mushy” to the touch and springs back a little when you press it down. Is there any way to fix this without cutting the ding out? I don’t think that I would be able to match the resin tint so I don’t want to replace any glass unless it’s the only way. Maybe I could inject some resin underneath? Thanks for any advice that anyone has!

Isnt that always the case ,new board =ding during first session.I havent tried it yet but the shop i buy my resins from sells these hypodermic needle syringe things,They work well for FCS intallation,I suppose if you drilled a small hole in the glass you cuold inject the resin but im ot sure how it would react to curing in a sealed environment ,would it get too hot?

Good luck!

I often find that with that sort of thing: crushed foam under relatively sound glass, that as long as it’s watertight it’s best to leave it alone until it justifies going in and adding some resin underneath to stiffen it up and a thin layer of glass over to do the same.

Rather than drilling a hole and injecting, I like to use a new sharp blade ( so ya don’t get rust on the edges of the cut ) along one side of the crunch. Then fill ( propping the slit open with a little bit of wood) , then glass over. Judicious use of cabosil ( to give a foam-like look ) and acetone ( to thin the mix to a pourable, penetrating viscocity ) can do some good appearance wise.

Make sure you get all the air out, massage it a little and pour slowly for best penetration. Use enough mix so it slops out when you let the slit close.If it’s done right, then you won’t see anything but maybe a little slightly less opaque, faintly darker patch where the resin has penetrated the crunched foam just a skosh.

hope that’s of use


Thanks for the advice guys, I’ll give Doc’s method a try later on, sounds like it should work fine.