So a few questions. I looked up on futures website on how to fix a stripped futures box. Seems pretty clear for the most part. Clean and fill the hole with epoxy. Drill out and re tap. I suppose I just wanted to double check measurements before I create a bigger problem. Futures calls for a #21 drill bit and a 10/24 tap.
Is a #21 drillbit the same as a 21/64".
The 10/24 tap / drill bit combos I have looked at online come with a #25 drillbit not a #21. ???
Lastly does anybody have any brand preference on those 5 min epoxy tubes? Just looking for one that will set hard.
Easiest way I've found . Take the screw and place it onto your future key Next heat the screw( lighter or a match will do) and simply screw into stripped hole. It will retap the threads. works everytime
Well the lighter method seems easiest to try. If not back to step one. I had thought about a slightly larger screw but this is on a board that I take on trips. I have a tendancy to lose those keys immediatly and standard key sizes can be found almost anywhere there are surfers. The next size up maybe not so easily. I will try lighter and report back!
Notice the asterik! I heated the screw for about 20 seconds with a lighter. Without the fin in the box I started to turn the screw into place. I started to watch the plastic warp around the screw. Basically the screw was going wherever it wanted to go. The inside surface of the box above the screw hole started to deform from the heat. I quickly ran and got a fin and stuck it in to keep the shape of the box the same. Proceded to turn the screw a few more rotations to make sure it was tapped all the way through. Waited for it to cool and backed it out. It melted a divot into the base of the fin and the first third of the screw hole is bigger than the screw. It did do the job though.
Well I couldnt leave good enough alone. The heating method did retap the hole but it also warped the hole so that the screw would wiggle even when it was tightened down. I don't want the screw backing its self out during a session so I ended up getting some Epoxy made for fixing plastic and a #21 drillbit at Ace Hardware. Used some surf wax to plug the hole on the inside of the box to keep resin from running into the box. Filled with resin and will drill out hole in a day or two. Keeping my fingers crossed that the epoxy will set hard enough that I can drill it out.
The salt water corrosion resistant stainless steel alloy you want is “Type 316”. If you can’t find that anywhere locally you should be able to get them at McMaster-Carr
Project finished and done correctly. I let the epoxy set for 24 hours, just drilled it out and put the origional screw back in, self tapping. Nice snug fit and like new.
To answer my own question in hopes of helping others. A # 21 drillbit is easy to find. Tap is not needed. I used an epoxy used for bonding to plastic as some say they wont bond well. Total cost $5
I stripped the thread in one of them ‘F3’ boxes, the ones that are supposed to take Futures or FCS.
Because I am an engineer and have a load of stuff I never new I needed, I managed to find a 316 stainless helicoil, so now I have a stainless inserted thread.
