Fixing bumpy rail bands

So… I thought I’d make it this time and build some boards without having to ask questions, but oh well…

I finished shaping a 6’4 singe fin, which went pretty fine. first time used a planer, that went allright-ish. skinning the blank went smooth (I now much prefer to skin my blanks and cut the outline afterwards), I also cut my rail bands with the planer, that went fine as well, and I used the planer for the concaves. final sanding didn’t turn out too smooth, but nothing a little spackle won’t fix.

So the fish I’m currently working on, I thought, well, Ima do the rails with the surfoam again. turns out, my rails are way bumpy. my outline is fine, it really is “only” the rail bands on the deck side in the middle part of the board.

So my question is, will I be able to fix that without my rails getting too thin? what would you recommend how I approach this - coarse sanding block? fine sandpaper and foam? surfoam? planer?

I have searched the archive, but I mostly got results for bumpy outlines and I found one post of tenderloin tom from 3 years, in which he says that his rail bands aren’t bumpy anymore, but that’s about it.

…hello man, are you in North Africa somewhere?

-In other thread I mentioned that the most important factor is to learn how to do a right template or to have right ones. Learn about the curves interaction and develop an eye. I bet that your problem start there then too much depth in the planer cut may be.

—to true the rail before anything; that is done with the planer and DO NOT with the surform like a great % do (included many marketed hipsters)—
-put the shape on the U rack on the rails, now you have one side of the outline up side. If you check I bet that you have a problem at about 15-20 inches from nose. Move the shape slowly back and forward on the U rack and contrast it with the light and shadows of the walls. Then check it from the other side and see how the bottom rail have a problem when it convert to hard edge at 18 from the tail.
Now put yourself in front of the racks and shape and lift the shape up and down slowly; compare and check; move it a bit to the sides to see that problem at those inches mentioned near the nose. Do the same but situated yourself back so you see the curves from the tail.
Ok, now that have all the 4 sides covered you can see where all the problems are localized.
If the bumps are not big; Mark them with a pencil; use a big surform with the microblades then use a hard block with 80 grit. After that check again everything and smooth out without a block and with long passes.

post pictures

hey reverb,

thanks for your answer. I am not in north Africa, actually I am in Europe. what made you think that?

My template was fine, as was my outline. On the board with the bumpy rail bands I only used the planer to skin the blank. The bumps are occurring in the middle of the board. Nose and tail are fine.

Hi Sid, PU or EPS? Stringer(s) or stringerless?-J

…may be the nickname and that some where you mentioned Morocco.
I bet that if you put the shape on the rails and check it moving it slowly you ll find a problem there; that are the most problematic parts in the rails; where the nose and tail rails meet the middle rail. At those inches; check it again but in the way I described you.
In the case that is only in the middle is a very easy fix doing the way I mentioned.

EPS with a stringer.

I’ll snap a pic.

Here’s a pic. Perspective and lighting make make it look like there is a bump in the outline as well.

This will be a version of a sidecut fish, in case you’re wondering about that weird curve in the tail.

Actually my dad is from morocco and we’ve often been to a small town with that name so it kinda stuck.

…put it on the sides as mentioned and you would fix the problem very easy.
I tell you that is more difficult to try to explain the procedure than actually do it.
Read and check again as you go.

haha, ok, will do that. thank you!

tomorrow actually, it is already kinda late over here.

Geez, that pic looks terrible…
It’s tough to tell much from that pic…
You mention the tail but I cannot see the tail?
If it were my blank, I would scrap it and start over…
Doesn’t a new quiver of handplanes sound fun?
That thing looks like some kind of Meyerhoffer abortion…

OR, maybe you can take some pics from further away that don’t look as bad?

nah, it’s not that bad, it really is the perspective and the lighting in the pic. like I said, it’s some bumps on the rail bands. my question was rather directed at how to blend those in, as in surform, sanding block or planer. if you look at the blank standing in front of a wall it’s barely noticeable.

Two sheets of sandpaper, taped together, then applied to a long sanding block. I prefer a balsa sanding block, but almost any light wood will work. Redwood, Basswood, Pine, etc. The extra long block makes it easier to smooth out the bumps you’ve described. I’ve used one(when I need it) for the last fifty years. If it works for me, it will work for you.

I found the dry wall screen on rails work best for me. Tip to tail and tail to tip passes.also after the out line is cut do long strokes with a long sanding block with good light and take a few steps back for a look.

Slow it down some and have fun

Edit update. I misread title. I was thinking RAILS , not the bands. For the blending of bands I use a 8"x10" memory foam pad and go rail to rail…slack city

Thanks guys. How long is “long” in your books?

I would make a 24 inch block like Bill is recommending, but it might not help much at this point. This will help you out using it with long strokes. The picture does look pretty horrid, but it doesnt mean the board will surf bad. Those bumps are only in the deck, so as long as you can take them down somewhat you will be fine. You will either have very thin rails, or live with some of that bump. I would leave some of that bump as to keep some rail thickness. Those bumps will feel weird under your hands, but will not really change the ride of the board. Live and learn and ride that bad larry till he dies. Just dont show too many of your friends, or they might be skepticle to have you shape their next stick.
Also, not for nothing, but I read and reread Reverb’s description on what to do, and it either doesnt apply here, or I have no idea what exactly he is trying to have you do. He usually has sound advice, but cant understand this one. Your issue is not the outline, but rather the curvature of your rails toward the deck. I think he believes your issue is a flat spot or something in your outline at nose and tail.

like to see the finished product you come out with on this one for reference*

Q:How long?
A: 18-22" (457-559mm) , depending which way you tape the 9x11 paper together.

Thanks for your input as well. As mentioned earlier, that pic does make it look really bad, which it isn’t really. I just wanted to make sure everyones knows what I’m talking about.

Sure, I’ll post pics, just been quite busy the last couple days.

actually I already have two of those, I just used paper from a beltsander. If I remember correctly it is around 20’’ long.