Hey Everyone, After searching for about 45 minutes I can’t find anything. I’ve got a few pressure cracks on my board near the rail. It’s a sand finished longboard that has one crack from my taking it in the chin on a small close out and another from a kook bailing off his board in 2 foot surf. ANYHOW… I’m going to work on fixing them today and in the past I’ve been able to fix full out dings that need filler and what not, but have yet to figure out how to fix the crack so that it appears invisible. What is the technique and needed tools to do so? I’ve heard something about slicing perpendicular to the crack to create an entrance for the resin, but I’ve only seen this method told once so I’m not so sure on it. Any and all help is appreciated. Christian
Christian, Depending on the depth of the crack… One good method to make them disappear is to soak the crack with styrene using a small paint brush. Let it get down into the crack. Then before it dries, paint a thin coat of hotcoat resin and let it cure. Then sand it out. Good luck. Doug
Christian, Depending on the depth of the crack… One good method to make them disappear is to soak the crack with styrene using a small paint brush. Let it get down into the crack. Then before it dries, paint a thin coat of hotcoat resin and let it cure. Then sand it out. Good luck. Doug
damnit… figures all I have is the ding all resin. I actually printed out some other suppliers I’m going to order from today. Thanks for the help thats a good start.
damnit… figures all I have is the ding all resin. I actually printed out some other suppliers I’m going to order from today. Thanks for the help thats a good start.
In talking with a local guy, the best result seemed to be to open up the crack a bit more using a dremel disc, mask off and recoat. I sanded and did a second coat this morning before work and it looks invisible except for very very faint evidence. Worked extremely well and just thought I’d pass this on.
In talking with a local guy, the best result seemed to be to open up the crack a bit more using a dremel disc, mask off and recoat. I sanded and did a second coat this morning before work and it looks invisible except for very very faint evidence. Worked extremely well and just thought I’d pass this on.
Christian, The dremel tool works well, except you need to make shallow cuts, and make sure you use a crystal clean grinder bit, any rust or junk will turn you little crack into a scar. Rough up around the scratch and fill with hot coat, and gloss polish its best just to paint some gloss resin over the crack and just surf it as is.
Christian, The dremel tool works well, except you need to make shallow cuts, and make sure you use a crystal clean grinder bit, any rust or junk will turn you little crack into a scar. Rough up around the scratch and fill with hot coat, and gloss polish its best just to paint some gloss resin over the crack and just surf it as is.
Yeah I didn’t take any chances and Used a brand new out of the package grinder wheel and went ever so slightly into the coat. Who knew the art school steady hand would pay off. Side note: When you say scaring, do you mean discoloring that will be visible or is there a type of physical scaring that occurs. Sorry for my ignorance. I don’t post a whole lot because I don’t know much but I read everything on this place as much as possible. Oddly enough I’ve got a nice 4" binder going with various articles and threads
Yeah I didn’t take any chances and Used a brand new out of the package grinder wheel and went ever so slightly into the coat. Who knew the art school steady hand would pay off. Side note: When you say scaring, do you mean discoloring that will be visible or is there a type of physical scaring that occurs. Sorry for my ignorance. I don’t post a whole lot because I don’t know much but I read everything on this place as much as possible. Oddly enough I’ve got a nice 4" binder going with various articles and threads
dirty dremil wheels… or even new ones sometimes, can leave little bits of junk in the crack, making it very visible. I have a bit that has a very tiny metal burr on the tip, and I use it to do the same thing… works well. I also use the Dremil ‘Pen’ extention - which is fantastic… though I don’t have those steady art school hands.
dirty dremil wheels… or even new ones sometimes, can leave little bits of junk in the crack, making it very visible. I have a bit that has a very tiny metal burr on the tip, and I use it to do the same thing… works well. I also use the Dremil ‘Pen’ extention - which is fantastic… though I don’t have those steady art school hands.
haha… Ok, i got ya. Those steady art school hands don’t get you a steady paying job unless you sell your soul these days. So I guess it’s a trade off. Thanks to everyone for their help.
haha… Ok, i got ya. Those steady art school hands don’t get you a steady paying job unless you sell your soul these days. So I guess it’s a trade off. Thanks to everyone for their help.