It is hard to say having never seen the board but here goes: I love boards with flatter rockers, they have better glide and a smoother feel. They are faster on the nose and allow you to stay up their, unlike many boards with more rocker where you have to walk back and get speed of the tail the stay in trim. Generally these boards are not 2+1 because you will not be able to make very tight turns of of the rail. You will want to focus on more pivot type turns or really drawing out your turns on the rail. I don’t know about the size though; if you already like the noserider you are riding it might be pointless to get a board that is shorter and with less rocker.
Flatter boards will paddle and glide better. They don’t push as much water. You have to pay more attention to the nose though, to keep from stuffing it on drops and plowing when paddling.
A flatter tail rocker will make the boards harder to turn, not easier. You’ll have to force it through turns, because it won’t do it by itself. More tail rocker makes the turning radius shorter, and therefore makes the board feel looser. A flatter rocker makes the turning radius longer and more drawn out. That means if you want to make tight turns you have to overpower the board to do it.
Post some pics and/or dimensions if you can get them.
Kendall, would a medium nose rocker ( 4 9/16 ), combined with a decent amount of tail rocker ( 2 5/8 ) be a good combo for paddling ease, but with good turnability on a small ( 7’ ) single fin/minimal, fun wave hog! ( 16n x 21x 15t )?.
I need to make it first!. I am running a few ideas around in my head . I want to be sure when i make my next one. Im 99% sure those will be the dims. Can’t wait !. I’ll get the blank next month for my birthday. It’s either that, or a 6’6’’ Fat arse wombat rip off, but i think a 7’ single, with a bit of extra width would siut a wider range of conditions.
A few years ago I had a 9’6" Something Special (George Gerlach design, produced by Nolte) with similar rocker. I loved almost everything about that board, and would still have it if life granted do-overs :-> One disadvantage was that in a situation where I would normally just barely manage to scratch over the top of a big wave paddling out, it was perfectly possible for it to do an unplanned fin-first take-off. I’m guessing the fact that it had more tail than nose rocker was mainly responsible for this, but there may have been other factors (including my kooky lack of technique The other issue I had was that I took considerable more spray in the face when paddling into a wind than on a longboard with more nose rocker. Neither problem was “killer”, just the normal differences between designs that we all need to accommodate…
flat longboards go quick, but that can be a problem if you want to noseride, because you keep outrunning the pocket & you have to backpedal off the nose to get to the tail all the time so you can stall or turn to get yourself back in the pocket. the best noserides happen in the curl, not out on the shoulder.
the best noseriders (i’m talking single fin logs here) have lift in the tail that sucks the board into the wave & helps you match the speed of the curl, thereby giving you lots of hangtime. of course a wide point further back is essential too.
Kendall, would a medium nose rocker ( 4 9/16 ), combined with a decent amount of tail rocker ( 2 5/8 ) be a good combo for paddling ease, but with good turnability on a small ( 7’ ) single fin/minimal, fun wave hog! ( 16n x 21x 15t )?.
I’d go up to 3" for the tail rocker. Also, your combo of width and tail will result in little curvature. Maybe bump the width up to 22 and the tail down to 14.5. That nose width isn’t going to offer much for nose riding either, however it will offer up better shred possibilities. Don’t forget the flat panel vee in the tail for positive drive.