Those US Foam 6’2 A blanks just have too much nose kick. I was wondering which blank would work best for a flatter rockered fish around 6’ and 21 inches wide. . I used the search function and all they had was info on Aussie blanks. Thanks.
Take a look at the US Blanks 6’5"A. may be what your lookn fer.
Thanks! Will do.
sirwank,
I shaped a 6-2A and thought it was flatter than the old 6-2C. Didn’t bother to measure it. I took a 5-10 from one and moved the board towards the back of the blank. The fish was pretty darn flat. I’m looking forward to making one for myself from that blank. I think the US Foam catalog has a 7-3 blank similar to the 7-3 Becker. The Becker was a good fish blank just have to waste a lot of foam. Maybe it will work? Mike
The Walker 6’8" Fish blank works really well . You can cut the nose to the desired rocker. They now have a new formula that glasses lighter than than their old formula.
Just shaped a Marko foam EPS fish “pescado” blank. Lower nose rocker and very wide. Blank says 6’1" but it is more like 6’2"-6’3". If you go to Marko’s site I’m pretty sure that they have all the dimensions.
Quote:
The Walker 6’8" Fish blank works really well . You can cut the nose to the desired rocker. They now have a new formula that glasses lighter than than their old formula.
hey, does anyone know of a distributer of walker in the FL area???
willing to make a drive…
been wanting to shape a 6’6" fish for a while and can’t seem to find the right blank
Hey, I just purchased the 6’2"A from Fiberglass Santa Cruz this weekend
Hoping to make a 6’0" to 6’2" fish style board with twin glass on keels.
Anyway, you think they have too much rocker? I surf a lot of beachbreak, not the Fish’s favorite kind of wave so a bit more rocker could be a good thing, and was mildly happy to see as much nose rocker as I did…its what, 4.75"?
I figure by the time I am done, it will be around 4 inches of nose rocker.
I have been scouring Swaylocks for different theories and thoughts on Fish style boards, and am happily puzzled at the various dimensions I keep seeing. Still not sure if I want a pointy nose or a round nose…thinking a pointy nose may help more with the duckdiving and cut down the “hanging up” on steep walls that can happen with wide point forward style shapes.
Offhand, for a Fish style board with tail points at 11 inches apart, anyone want to recommend how deep the buttcrack goes? Right now I am thinking 6 inches.
The Walker distributors on the East Coast are Eastern Skateboard and
http://www.oceanavenuesk8.com/contact.asp
There are a few others if you do not have any liuck with these.
Gary
Duncan,
As stated above. I built a 5-10 from the 6-2A. I’m pretty sure the nose rocker was not greater than 3 1/2 inches(usually don’t bother measuring). Fishes work great in fast hollow waves. What board doesn’t? I recommend staying close to the original design to get a good taste of what the board offers. Wide point forward, Low hard rails starting in front of the fins, twin keels, etc. The traditional butt crack depth I believe is to make it 1/2 the distance of the distance between tips. You will be fine going to 6 inches or a bit more,however. They work great in beach break stuff, too. It’s the wave, not the bottom material that matters. A clean lineed-up wave is a clean lined-up wave. Mike
Rooster,
I’ve been riding a friend’s Brom Fish for the past few days (thanks R3W!). Rode it this AM and got a few near barrels on it…though I think a lot of that had to do with me trying to out compete my friend on his longboard.
The hardest thing about riding it is getting my back foot to not span the tail, and even then it still scoots about nicely…nice to have a board that accelerates so quickly. Would love to take it to a more predictable reef and see what I can do with a smidge more time on the drop.
However, being over 6’3", having to deal with lots of longshore drift, and lots of duck-diving at my typical spot (Ocean Beach, SF), I don’t think the Fish in a traditional sense is the best board for the typical wave I encounter. Not often I find a clean, lined-up wave.
As such, I am am going to go a bit more narrow and a few inches longer than usual. This will mean I get more rocker out of the same blank you used (see blank profile of the 6’2"A: http://www.usblanks.com/…talog.Nov.1.2006.pdf )
Also, I was talking to a fellow at Wise Surfboards in SF, and we got to talking about Fish type boards and he thought they were the worst shape for Ocean Beach…would work under the right feet he said, but it would require more effort than pretty much every other type of board. He recollected about riding them in the 70s and how newer fish with slight toe in and some fin-cant ride with a more positive feedback and don’t seem any slower. He thought a 10-12 in wide tail (at tips) should have V rather than channels, and that soft rails for the first 1/4 to 1/3 of the board are a requirement around this neck of the woods due to all the wind bump.
Last and most importantly, I appreciate your information regarding the depth of the tail crack. That seems to be the most stable of variables I’ve encountered when it comes to Fish style boards.