How about ‘slight digression’ rather than OT, sort of like this little ditty, which starts off with that ‘Huh, what the hell is this about?’ kind’a feeling, but brings in home in the end.
How fast was the surfer going when he/she left the wave to rise one meter above it?
Given the conservative nature of a gravitation field, again neglecting air resistance, this result can be quickly estimated, in fact for a surfer and surfboard – they would have to be traveling at about 16.0 km/hr or 9.91 mi/hr. Not exactly ‘ripping’ speeds, huh? I guess skill counts.
The curious thing here is that the weight of the surfer/surfboard drops out of this calculation. That is, if a 230 lb person on a 10 foot 25 lb SUP can get that kind of speed they too could travel the same vertical distance – assuming air resistance could be neglected, and for relatively small distances it often can. This sort of begs the question then, that is, why you don’t see all that many ‘airs’, even if they’re not a full meter high, by surfers riding 10 footers?
Here’s my shot at an answer.
Longboarders could achieve such speeds, but on waves in the head-high or less category, you can’t really get the required acceleration on longboards to get you to that velocity in sufficient time – remember, it all has to be oriented in the correct direction. You may be able to pull it off, if the face was long enough so you could ‘ramp’ up your speed. In fact, that happens a lot –i.e. it’s not uncommon for longboarders to be traveling fast enough to achieve a little take off as they come off and over the shoulder. But to pull off that kind of acceleration in a sufficiently tight space requires another kind of beast –e.g. a shortboard.
I don’t think it’s appropriate here to discuss it, but again I’m taken back to the notion that it’s not really all about speed, but more about acceleration, in surfboard design. This is particularly true in shortboard design, which, to a very high degree, tends to be about improving acceleration, which is often what is being referred to when terms like ‘responsive’ are used.
But back on topic, where there’s acceleration, there’s force, or stress if you like, and where there is stress, there is deformation – so, where back on ‘flex.’
kc
Note: The cartoon is completely OT.